08 Tundra Long Travel Suspension

Long Travel Suspension – first and likely only post. Just trying to put out information I wish I could find previously. Most other things are covered in other areas.

2008 Tundra 5.7 4x4 Crewmax

Approximately a year ago I made the decision to change my 7” BDS lifted Tundra to a true long travel set up. I had zero experience driving a long travel vehicle, and had a hard time learning from other’s experiences. I use my truck as a daily driver and have taken it on two cross country trips since completing the work. Additionally, it has actually been used off-road, specifically at the Texas Raptor Run 2020. If you have an opportunity to attend one of these events, I strongly encourage you to do so. Great community of good people.


I debated about detailing my truck changes specifically, but in the interest of transparency, I felt it best to lay it out. Especially if someone is considering different LT kits. I found it very difficult to choose from user experience.


My truck is equipped with the following:


1. LSK LT Race Kit

a. ADS 2.5” X 10” Coilover w Remote Res

b. ADS 3.0 X 10” 4 tube bypasses (had to be a custom layout to fit in the UCA)

c. ADS axles

d. New OEM CVs

e. Shock Hoops

f. Powerstop brakes (too cheap to date to buy Baer or Brembo)

2. Advanced Fiberglass

a. Front and Rear

3. Camburg Bed Cage

a. ADS 3.0 X 16” 4 tube bypasses

b. Deaver Underleaf

c. Powerstop brakes

4. Toyo 37” X 13.5 X 17s

5. Engine

a. TRD Supercharger

b. ZPE TRD Tundra Pulley (2.30”)

c. JBA shorties

d. Magnaflow cats

e. Borla muffler

f. Side exit exhaust

6. Nitro 5.29 front and rear gears

7. Auburn LSD PRO differential


An important note on this is that I did zero of the work associated with this project. I used Brave Motorsports in Houston, TX. They did a great job and I would recommend them to anyone.


What to expect for construction/cost consideration:


Front:

The LSK race kit requires significant fabrication and fitment. There is significant cutting/welding required. Additionally, if you want the full range of travel on a Tundra, it will require custom inner fender wells to accommodate the wheels uptravel. Without the changing of your fender wells, you will be limited to +14” of measured travel. This will require you to limit your 10” shocks on this kit. The expense of custom inner fender wells should not be underestimated. Find a shop that understands a project like this – in Cali/Arizona, that is relatively easy. Outside of that, it is a crap shoot. It took me months to find one that I could trust. The kit is designed to be used with stock CVs – I had changed my CVs when I put on the 7” BDS lift kit, and went cheap. This came back to bite me. Also, if you have a lift now, a new crossmember has to be fabricated. Another cost I didn’t plan for.


Rear:

My truck is a crew max. The Camburg bed cage is about 5” from the front of my bed. While it does not seem like a lot, when you put a full size spare in the bed, your bed is essentially gone. The underleaf and bed is bolt on, but it does require the cutting of your bed. If you are not on board with that, look for an alternative (cantilever, etc). I am particular about upkeep, and the openings to tend to get your bed messy, particularly in mud/rain. No brainer, I know, but something to consider if you plan on keeping things back there.


Fiberglass:

It is never perfect. To get it perfect takes significant time and it is worth the expense to pay a professional. Advanced Fiberglass is supposedly the best fitment, but it was far from perfect and required significant tweaking.


Engine:

Finding a custom tuner to adjust for the smaller pulley was like pulling teeth. Serious HP in Houston, TX tuned my truck, and they did a fantastic job. It did take them 2 days (quoted 1) simply because how big of a pain Tundra’s are compared to the more common GM/Ram/Ford. Our trucks will put down decent power with this setup on 93 octane. My truck ended at 483WHP and 490WTQ, on 37” tires.


Daily Driving:


Get ready for significant body roll. There are no more sway bars. It is fun, but takes a little getting used to, especially with our nanny systems. The place I have noticed it becoming the most irritating is on interstate interchange overpasses. If I do not turn off the nanny systems, or forget to, when making the sweeping turns my traction control turns on (insert annoying beep and power loss). It is startling at 55-65 mph for that to occur.


Also, this is one wide bitch now. +~90” depending on tires/offsets. Your turning radius is dramatically worse.


Mountain driving is also interesting on the road. Similar problems to the over pass. This set up is not for on road cornering or turning.


Bypass shocks: If you are reading this, you likely already know how loud they are. They are loud. It sounds like your truck is falling apart. You do get used to it, but that is another thing I was unprepared for. Even though I was told, I still didn’t expect them to be so loud. I actually like it now, but initially it was an adjustment. It was so much of an adjustment, I pulled out my interior, dynomatted the floor, back wall, a/b/c pillars, door panels, roof and back wall. Then followed that up with closed cell foam. It made a noticeable difference for me. I did the floor, back wall and door panels in one weekend. A/B/C pillars, roof in another weekend. I am not handy, so if I can do that, you can too. Order lots of spare fasteners. You will break some. My truck was 12 years old when I began this journey, so I broke a lot of them.


Curbs are no longer an issue for you (depending on your tire/rim choice). The suspension will absorb them readily and easily.


There is a misconception of this suspension being super soft, creating a cloud like ride over the road. I used to picture a big old Cadillac with blown out suspension just floating down the road. That is NOT the case. You feel bumps. The truck wants to drift. It does take some getting used to, particularly the freeways. It is not shocking or scary or intimidating – it is just different.


It is also FUN. The body roll is fun. The noise is fun. The feeling of owning the road is fun. I am incredibly happy with my decision, and all of the parts mentioned thus far have been quality with no issues (not true. The seals on the front differential from the Nitro kit failed very quickly. Recommend OEM seals anywhere you can).


At 70MPH on the road (GPS verified) my RPMs with the 5.29 gears are around 2200 RPMs. Fuel mileage is still terrible. On my last long road trip I averaged around 11 MPG.


Offroad:


This truck is much more capable than the raptors I encountered at the Texas Raptor Run (stock vs mine. Similar setups yielded similar results). I did not drive as aggressively as they did, but this set up allowed me to glide over rough terrain at decent speeds. It is truly amazing how smooth this ride is offroad at speed. It is also amazing (for a new entrant to this space) how the suspension absorbs random obstacles, even while turning. It is an absolute blast to drive offroad.


Tip for a rookie (like me). When driving these Tundra’s offroad with decent power, use 4 hi and turn off all other nanny systems. Night and day difference. Way better launch, way better control – just all around better. Seems easy, and I am probably going to get boo’d out of here for not knowing that, but if it helps someone else, it is worth mentioning.


Other notes: after a few jumps, my battery came loose and ended my first outing. Sheared through one of my head sensors. Had to field wire that one and limp back to camp. Installed a Camburg battery mount and replaced my yellow top with an Odyssey. No subsequent issues. My truck will fall apart around that mount.


Cosmetic considerations:

My truck was originally salsa red. I had it wrapped in matte dark grey. Looks great. However, it does show wear marks (smacking into treelimbs, etc). Also, rock chips are a thing, especially on the bedsides. I am not sure how to combat it just yet, but if I were to have spent the $5k I was quoted for paint, I would be pissed. I paid $3k for the wrap and I am still pissed. Just something to think on and consider. Maaco or however you spell it looks better each day.


If you can stomach the expense, I would definitely recommend this setup. I debated it for years, but I am happy I finally did it. Good luck to anyone who gives it a go. I doubt you will regret it.

 

Ephin rad setup

 

Thanks man

 

Awesome truck! Looks absolutely fantastic!

 

Thanks man. I appreciate it.

 

Very nice! What do you have for front bump stops, and did you do the brace over the engine between shock towers?

 

I do not have any bump stops. Ran out of money on the build. No brace over the engine. That would have come with the stops. Debating about doing that next year. I do have a bump zone on my bypass (smaller diameter bypass tube). Playing with fire, but so far so good.

 

I'm on a path similar to yours but more inclined towards camp/overland. Will likely stick to a single shocks on all corners + bumpstops, no bypass.

I never knew the LSK UCA needed tabs to be welded on the frame, always seemed so wide for the stock location but never bothered to look into it since Camburg is on my list.

Sick build btw

 

Looks so good! And the bronze springs are a super nice touch!

 

Thanks for the write up.
Sweet build.

 

cool truck. way beyond my means $, but a great build.

 

LSK has 2 different LT offerings. The race kit moves the UCA the bolt on kit doesn't.

 

Looks great. Any frame boxing?

 

I love that Mazzulla rear bumper. I've been eyeing it for awhile. Truck is badass brother!!!

 

Thanks man. I had a hard time finding just simple, real world examples about what its like to leave with a LT truck. Just tried to help where I could. My buddy actually prompted me to write - the cloud comment came from him.

 

Hot dang! Bad Ass

 

No sir. Damn - makes me feel like I short changed this pig. Metal work gets expensive - def should have done it. Buuuuuut I didnt. Good catch though!

 

I had a real sh*t bumper on there before. Brave did a great job getting me to swap it out. Really changed the look of the truck - and as bumpers go, they arent all that expensive.

 

Live. F*ck my grammar. Sheesh.

 

Definitely a bucket list thing

 

That rear bumper is saweet. You can always box the rear later. It's generally done from the back of the cab to the rear bumper. I did mine well after everything else was installed.

 

Saw this truck on IG. Finally seeing the write up on it makes me want to do LT even more.

 

Drool! That thing is sweet!

 

Let me know if this is ever up for sale...

 

very nice

 

https://media2.giphy.com/media/eKNrUbDJuFuaQ1A37p/giphy.gif

 

this is possibly the sickest tundra suspension I've ever seen...