What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

When my fuel pump went out a few years ago and left me stuck in Virginia the dealer up there dropped the tank. I have a shell on the truck and had a bunch of camping gear in the bed of course that didn’t help. When the pump went out it actually shorted out and blew the fuse.

 

Good info. Our resident Toy Mechanic here says just dropping the tank is the way to go. Seems like the Fuel Pump gives up the ghost fast without warning which is why I want to get ahead of it. They are only $125 from Denso. Cheaper than a tow and Stealer Bend Over when out of town.

 

New Bilstein 4600 shocks, and a set of "made in Taiwan" TRW sway bar end links are waiting to be installed up front next week.

 

Got the engine oil and filter done, transmission fluid drain and fill, and coolant replacement completed last night.

 

I was sorely tempted by those, but bummed they don't come in 4500K or 5000K

 

Did my FP few months back. Pretty easy to drop the tank. A hose up top from EVAP was kinda a pain. I ran it WAY down on gas first. Like 40+ miles after light. Just had a 2 gallon can with me in case. If it's empty that big plastic tank doesn't actually weight much, but size wise is a little awkward. Second set of hands helps (in my case it was a complaining wife).

 

Good luck with these sir, cheapo tie rod ends failed quickly on me, like 2 months. Lube them well.

 

Agreed, but these aren't the cheap ones.

 

Interesting, am not familiar with TRW, I am familiar with made in Taiwan. Do these have a zerk?

 

TRW is an old automotive parts brand, I sold their parts when I worked for auto parts chains in the late 70's / early 80's. No zerk, but my originals don't have a zerk either.

 

The gas tank appears to be metal for 2002. I don’t think they switched over to plastic until a couple years after.

 

Good point. There were a couple fuel system differences when they went to vvti.

Either plastic or metal, get it empty first.

 

Ole gurl still delivers.

 

Also probably helps that they aren’t tie rod ends either.

 

Good point.......

 

Installed a new head unit tonight! Was planning on just wiring it myself, but I read up @FirstGenVol build page and saw that Crutchfield offered pre-crimped harnesses. Definitely had trouble getting the factory amp out, but other then that, was literally plug and play! Got off work at 8, Had back together by 9:30, including driving. Did find a big coffee stain where the factory radio sits, which might explain why my volume knob was such a spaz

Didnt wire in the parking brake cable as I didnt really see a need too, but will need to tear back into it when I get a rear camera. Just waiting on @Kimosabe research to decide which I go with.

 

Parking brake is not just always for video. Depending on the head unit it can also lock you out of other features. For example input of destination if it has gps or use of phone contacts.

 

You'll have to let me know how easy it is to see the screen in the daytime. I'm interested in doing this eventually, and I can't live without the volume wheel.

Any chance you could take better pics later on?

I'll add this post to my note pad until then.

 

Starting rear suspension work next week. While I've got it apart I'm going to pressure wash things first and then POR15 paint the axle and rear frame. Eventually working my may to the front. Rust isn't bad, but few minor spots could use it.

Good plan or is there something better I could do? Within reason of course.

 

Don't forget to paint over the POR15 - it is not UV stable. Kind of sucks, but I think you need to wait 24hrs. before you can top coat it, but a rattle can is plenty of protection.

 

Thanks. Is that common practice to paint over it? I'd say not too much uv light under the truck... but some rustoleum over it wouldn't take much to be safe.

 

Simple things for now for my truck. Got the new radio in, plastidipped the center and and door controls black. New gas cap... Finally went under the truck and found more things to replace... Basically need a whole new front suspension rebuild....I need to make a build thread.

 

I’d grease and oil rub it. Easier and cheaper. A big sponge and dippy do away.

POR is expensive and messy (although a nice product). Lots of work with POR doing it right. Doesn’t sound like you have a problem with major rust.

 

https://youtu.be/_qR56Dz6ew8

 

You referring to fluid film grease or something else? Going to pressure wash it first to get a better look. Then make more educated decision.

 

Going to pick up some fluids and plugs today. Anyone have any insight towards plug selection? These engines fine with copper, or do they look down their noses at anything less than iridium? Anyone know how serious they take their heat range?

 

It's recommended - there's still tons of UV reflection under the truck - not nearly as bad as the top.

I live in a heavy salt area and my mom had the real axle on her truck start leaking through the housing. Luckily, someone in the area brought up a first gen from Arizona for parts. I power washed, PORed, painted the axle before installing it. It's been 8 years and looks the same as the day I installed it.

Now the steel brake lines we added have already given up and the u-bolts look like hell.

 

The POR-15 will last but it will fade easily. I didn’t paint over it but it’s good practice to do so since in early morning or evening the sun can hit the back of the axle and pumpkin.

 

POR-15 Top Coat doesn't need to be protected. It used to say 'UV Stable", but doesn't seem to any more. The product description makes it clear (& the name) that it's meant to be your final coating.
POR-15 Top Coat DTM Paint (Direct To Metal)
(if you follow the link, make sure to note the coupon code that will pop up, in case you end up buying some)

 

I didn't paint over the POR-15 but the area I painted will never see the light of day. It looked so much better. Great product.

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