Truck died, shop replaced fuel pump, died 1 day later

SOLVED: Control module (on the inside of rail frame near tank) was corroded. Shop jumped the gun and didn't check module prior to replacing fuel pump. I'm 99% certain my pump was in good condition and didn't need replacing. Make sure you keep your old parts even with reputable shops!! Thank you everyone with your help I have learned a lot and will be tackling these types of repairs myself next time.
Full shop repair price : new fuel pump, new tank straps, new fuel control module (toyota part only) total $1660.



Hey guys any insight into my trouble would be greatly appreciated. Fuel pump or AIP?

A few weeks back I had my 4x4 hi and lo flash, with the traction control lights after a big snow fall. No effect on driving. Disconnected battery they reset and never came back

So Thursday my 2008 Crewmax TRD 260,000 kms died after dropping my wife's car at the shop. Full loss of power and wouldn't restart. This was after climbing up a steep hill in town and dying literally in front of my house. Prior to that there were a few times I was thinking the truck was idling heavier like a diesel but couldn't quite tell. It was low on gas 1/8 but not empty. AT light and check engine lights were on. It would turn over and fire up and immediately die. Disconnecting battery did nothing so got it towed to the shop.

Shop said it was the fuel pump and after a bill of $1160 CAN plus new tank straps it drove great that afternoon and the following day. This morning fired it up and it immediately died and will not start up again. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes, tried spare key and still nothing. I have full electrical power as far as I can tell, it has no hesitation to try and turn over. 1/2 of gas. AT light and check engine lights come on but I think they just come on when you put key in and clear after it fires up?

Either way it's going back to the shop. Any thoughts of why it could fail if it was the fuel pump? If it's an AIP issue I will obviously order the bypass kit, but that means I'm out $1200 on a wrong diagnoses.

Thoughts?

 

Codes for CEL? Load test your battery?

 

I don't have a code reader unfortunately. I can't tell if any codes were actually thrown. I just don't know how a new fuel pump install could potentially have any issues unless of course it was never the problem. I also will mention I drove near 100 kms Friday with multiple start ups and shut offs without issue.

 

Are the codes on the invoice from the shop that you had replace the pump? I don't know if your neck of the woods has auto parts stores that offer free code reads. They may be equipped to load test your battery too. That may be an option.

 

Does sound like it’s not getting fuel. I noticed the initial low gas and steep hill, but wouldn’t think that would kill the pump unless it was going out anyway. The original pump was getting old. Maybe it’ll be something simple like a wire came loose that they forgot to tighten. Was it at a Toyota dealer? In the US, I think most warranty repairs for 1 year.

 

No codes on my invoice. Either way I have to get it towed back to the same shop as I paid quite a bit to only have it not fixed. We have CAA so thats a plus. If it were missed diagnosed I think it's fair to ask for a refund on the labour ($200). But It would be pretty devestating to pay $1200 on a wrong guess.

 

It wasn't a Toyota Dealership but a reputable shop here in town. I figured Toyota costs would be quite a bit higher.

 

You'd need to compare the cost of the parts, the hourly labor rate and the billed time between the two shops.

 

For sure but dealerships are typically much higher and our local toyota is known for over charging, so I picked this shop (while I was blocking the road) as they have a good reputation and the trucks been there before. Just frustrating money's extremely tight right now because of covid. Either way I will keep you guys posted on the results hopefully it can help someone in the future.

 

Bad fuse?

 

It's worth a check but when I put the key in and turn to auxiliary I can hear the pump kick in, unless that may be other systems.

 

Did it just die when it cut out or do a surge and then die? I had a car that would show it had gas but the tank was bone dry. Faulty gas gauge sending unit. It would surge and then die. Try putting some gas in it. If it starts you know the gauge is faulty.

 

What fuel pump did the independent shop install? Should at least be a P/N on your invoice. There are a lot of total crap parts on the market, so if it wasn’t a Denso I’d be suspect. But as recent recalls indicate, even they can have troubles.

Step one, I’d contact the same shop and explain what’s happened.

 

A basic code reader is around $30. Willingness to spend over $1000 on a repair without pulling your own codes is questionable.

 

Update: i followed up with the shop since they hadnt called. Shop says my fuel pump ecu is likely the problem and killed my last pump but the current 1 day old one is still good. It's a Toyota part and they're quoting 45 minutes to install so new bill is over $500. I need my truck so I told them if it's definitely that to order it and do it. The receptionist didn't sound overly convincing so I hope they're not just guessing and replacing parts by most expensive first.

Would a bad ecu kill a fuel pump or is it possible they misdiagnosed the truck? Just sucks both would fail at the same time so now my current bill is $1700ish yikes.

 

I looked up the part its the Spectra Premium SP9010M

 

Maybe rodents chewed some wires leaving you with an open circuit part time

 

I would aks for your old pump back and find a new shop.

 

You pay the mechanic to fix it, not just replace parts.

If the fuel pump module doesnt fix it, tell him to eat the $500.

 

Definitely. I'm decently mechanically inclined, I do my own maintenance, brakes, fluids, flushes. But anything engine or difficult to do in my snow covered gravel driveway I will hire the pros. I will still pick up a code reader, but when it comes to diagnosing a no start, I don't have the tools or experience.

 

Basic engine code readers are available at walmart in the US, and other places like parts and some tool stores for less than $50.

A code reader wont tell you how to fix it dispite popular belief though. It just tells you fault codes when something isnt working as it was designed within certain parameters. But dont get me wrong they are very useful.

You cant really fix anything now without wiring diagrams which is what you really need. Here is a link to wiring diagrams:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

The old saying about fuel, spark, and compression applies even with all the extra technology. Sounds like the truck is cranking normally, so compression is probably fine. Testing for ignition spark will rule out anything related to the ignition or security system.

Considering the fuel pump was just changed, fuel is likely still your problem. The shop could be right about the module, it could be intermittent or shorted out. Testing power, ground, and ecm signal at the module is probably where to look next. South Main Auto on youtube has videos on crank no starts on various cars and explains it pretty well if you want to try figuring this out yourself.

 

I'd be asking them how they confirmed it was the old pump and if they tested the pump ECU the first time. I'd also want the old pump and test it myself.

Always ask for replaced parts, always. shops put flunkys on jobs like that and tend to just change parts.

 

i know it must not be an easy thing being a mechanic but how could you just diagnose the pump initially then say its an ecu later too...

 

Thanks I will call in the morning to let them know to keep any parts that come off the truck.

 

Thanks for all this info that is great I will check out these videos

 

Reading all this is just disheartening for me. This whole time my wife who is near 8 months pregnant, her car which we brought in for just a patch has come back twice now with more issues than when it went in. That's at an OK tire, but they sent her home with a screaming new belt that was 10x worse, she brought it back in today. The 15 minutes in there it came out and although they fixed the belt she right away saw a check engine light which is now saying something with the Camshaft. She went back and they said its nothing to do with them. Had to pick up our son so she couldn't wait around. She definitely didn't have the light on prior and I'm thinking while they rushed they snagged a wire. I called them which lead us no where but we won't be going back.

So my mechanically inclined Tundra brothers, what is the consensus would a bad ecu or module kill a fuel pump?

 

No, a bad ECU shouldn't kill a fuel pump. I agree that this could be something really hard to find but cheap to fix like a broken wire.

 

Well..... to me it does sound like fuel. I find it odd you are having these problems again right after a new pump was put in.

Finding good parts can be hard these days. Even Toyota OEM pumps are being recalled and have problems so it happens to the best.

I can not speak for every part they make, but generally speaking in my eyes and some of my mechanic friends, Spectra is generally thought of being lower end parts store parts. I am sure they make some good stuff, but general consensus is stay away from them. I know the odds are very small, but it might be a bad pump from the factory. Although it is weird it ran for 1 day then quit.....

I would think it shoot be able to trouble shoot by a competent mechanic.

I am not an all out expert, but I thought the ECU did run the fuel system. Was not aware that there is a separate fuel module?

 

The new Spectra pump they put in still works, they are just saying it's the ecu or module, and they said the ecu killed my last pump which I think was original as far as I know. It was that wording that confused me I would have just figured it was age, and they're covering up a mistake.

 

There is a fuel pump control module mounted inside the frame rail on the driver’s side, just ahead of the tank. This has to be what they are planning to replace next, as the main engine ECU costs much more.