Gooseneck Trailer?

I know guys are pulling boats and 5th wheel campers but is anyone pulling a gooseneck flatbed trailer?

If so, how did the ball installation go? Did you have Toyota do it?

I am thinking of getting a 20' flatbed gooseneck to put the toys on and then add a hitch on the back to pull the boat behind that. Legally I can do it since the gooseneck has brakes.

Trying to figure out how to do motorcycles, golf cart, kayaks, and boat all on the same pull instead of using two vehicles.

Not interested in a camper/toy hauler.

 

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install...iler-hitch-2020-toyota-tundra-bwgnrk1257.aspx


Let me know how it goes. I am thinking about going with a gooseneck as well

 

Is your truck a DC or a CM? I've heard 5th wheel with a CM puts you at risk of smashing your rear window when turning; not sure if that would also be a risk with a gooseneck.

I've also heard that, due to the pin weight of gooseneck trailers, you'll be hard-pressed to stay within your payload rating. @ColoradoTJ switched to a one ton partially to tow his gooseneck trailer.

 

I have the crew max cab in this new truck. I found an 18' gooseneck trailer which wouldn't get me too long. My boat is another 20' though.

Wind? what wind?

 

what toys are you hauling? Could you put the boat on the trailer with the toys if you went with a little bit longer gooseneck?

I think its do-able to stay within the legal specs of towing both. I don't think you are going to like it. I don't think you would like it with a 1 ton dually.

 

Any updates to this thought? I recently purchased a new tractor, John Deere 4066r Cab tractor, and I currently have a very beefy 18' bumper trailer that the axles are only rated for 7,500lbs. I believe I will have to make a change here with something. I sold my Cummins for a real truck, My tundra, that I didn't have to worry about giving me all kinds of problems but I sacrificed my hauling capacities. I am looking for a maybe a 20-25' flat deck gooseneck, just something with a little more capacity to hold this larger weight tractor and an implement. I also will not be hauling more than 50 miles one way. For the record I do have air bags in the rear of my truck with on-board air for easy load leveling.


I am not against doing some fabrication to my current trailer with replacing springs and axles to upgrade it to a 10,000lb trailer, just need to know what the best option here is. I use my Tundra for everything so versatility is great. I plan to have some farm animals, with needs of moving feed/hay in the near future also.

 

That would be a site. Set aside the backing up dilemma.

Does your boat trailer have brakes? How would you activate those? How would you operate the second trailer lights.

that’s a whole cluster f@$# I wouldn’t want to deal with. I’d just make two trips or bring a friend along to tow one of the trailers.

 

So your tractor weights about the same as mine.

Below is my setup on an 16' with 6.5K axles. Just for reference. My only concern with the Gooseneck is the added weight of the trailer. ~5K tractor with 1K implement and 3-4K gooseneck with put you right at the max towing.

 

Thanks for the thoughts, and the picture there of your rig. I don't plan to purchase a new trailer unless I absolutely have to. I have alot of custom work put into my 18' for hauling everything I need/do currently. I also believe the suspension is wore out and could use replaced, so if I went that route I would upgrade to heavier axles as well. The only thing I see useful about purchasing a newer trailer is a little extra length. I use all 18' currently with the loader/tractor/cutter combo. However the new tractor I just purchased I can remove the whole loader to haul without it so that will save me a few feet on length if I was going to a job that I didnt need the loader. Just want to weigh my options out...

 

I hear ya! 18' is good but a 20'-22' seems to be a sweet spot for a loader, tractor, mower combo. What ramps do you have? Having slide in ramps on an 18' trailer would be great and allow the mower to hang over a bit.

I have actually been looking at upgrading trucks to a 3/4 ton so I could get a gooseneck and not have to worry about payload with my tractor

 

The ramps have the sliding track on the tail and they removed and slide under that trailer for holding while hauling. The tail of the trailer only sets about 6-8" off the ground though, so anything 4wd doesnt even need them to load or unload.

When hauling the tractor mower combo I normally have to unbolt the rear tail wheel of the cutter to clear the road but it still hangs over.



You can see my truck is squatted pretty good as well, this was taken before I had my air bags installed.

I have a removeable winch for the front (the bucket rests on the mount when hauling) and I also have 2"x6" pocket tubing under the deck on the front to hold my pallet forks off the side of the trailer. I took and reinforced the deck frame above the axles. There is also 2" thick wall square tubing about every 1' underneath the floor for cross support. the trailer really needs tandem 5k axles now that I have strengthened everything way greater than it came from factory.

 

Are you able to curl the bucket all the way under? So the cutting edge on the bucket faces your front tires. I think you might gain a foot. It’s definitely tough with a mower you almost have to be between 20-22ft. I’m trying to think of ideas that aren’t spending money haha

 

Thanks! I have did some upgrading over the past few years, I started with a 32hp compact tractor and it wasnt cutting it tending to our 30 acres. So last March I stepped up to that one, its 52hp, but last saturday I traded it in on this beauty...



Hence why I am concerned about the trailer situation now... The tractor is the same frame size as the 52hp setting on my trailer. Differences are the cab and heavier components, as well as 66hp.

 

I have to load it that way just for load balance purposes... I have tried it all directions and if I pull any farther forward it is too much on the truck.

 

Thank you for the write up and exactly why I am still searching for the right 3/4 or 1 ton truck. The tundras are very capable trucks for a 1/2 ton but sometimes you just need more truck

 

What kind of Saw is that on the back?? I am looking to clear some ground and I been using a bush hog but a saw would be good too.

 

I would not be scared to load my equipment that I currently have on this trailer and hook to my Tundra for a haul. I'll do some rough math here, someone correct me if I am wrong, but Im going to say that my Tundra currently weighs about 6,500lbs with fuel, cargo, and myself, then we add the trailer weight of 4,600lbs, that brings us to a combined weight of 11,100. The Gross Combined weight that a Tundra is stamped for is 16,000lbs. so that still leaves roughly 5,000-6,000lbs that can be loaded and be within/just over the sticker numbers of towing capacity, gross combined weight, and tongue weight. Am I thinking/figuring correctly here? I am just rounding numbers based off these pictures of truck weight and all that jazz since you used a 3/4 ton GMC instead of a Tundra which will lower Gross Combined weight by a significant amount.

 

I have a gooseneck hitch going on a 2010 Tundra here in a minute here I can post pics of. Did a heavy duty Add - A - Leaf as well....standby...

 

You forgot about GVWR/payload/pin weight, which is a completely separate conversation.

If you're looking to go close to the GCWR of 16k lbs and your truck weighs 6500 lbs, let's make the math easy and say your trailer weighs 9000 lbs. A 20% pin weight (typically what's recommended to be safe with a GN if I recall correctly) would give you 1800 lbs, which is well over the payload capacity you figured of 700 lbs (which is the GVWR of 7200 lbs less the weight of the truck and everything in it).

 

Thank you, I knew I left something out.