2010 Tundra 5.7L P0430 & P0420 Codes will not Reset with tool after replaced

I just got this Tundra had a P0420 on bank 1 which should be driver side upstream & P0430 Code which should be passenger downstream. I replaced both of the 02 sensors with Denso Brand. I used a OBDII and cleared the codes, never starting the engine at all. After the OBDII re-reads the codes again after it clears and says delete complete it has the same codes! I turn off the key start the engine and the check engine light is off but after about 15-30 mins of driving the check engine light comes on again. Once that happens the idling can become up and down some. I also notice before the check engine light appears that when lightly getting into some speed from pulling out that I feel a bog down some not much but its there. I can get into the gas throttle more and it pushes through it great. I just think its Weird how I can not clear the code and make it stay gone before I even start the truck. Any help? I cleaned all 02 Sensor connections with cleaner and everything looks good. This is a first for me and I have never seen an issue like this before. Any help would be gratefully appreciated. Just never seen a code be there after a delete before start. Thanks guys!

 

I would suggest replacing the downstream O2 sensors also.

 

420 and 430 are both sides downstream sensor logging catalysts inefficiency. Do you have catalysts installed? Any exhaust leaks? O2 sensors are the most commonly replaced sensor thats jot actually failed. Don't touch the upstream sensors for these faults. Also what cleaner did you use? You can contaminate the reference chamber and cause bad readings pretty easily.

 

Hello thanks for the replies, I got this truck on a trade and the guy I got it from saw me coming I guess. It does have over 200k on the truck. I was looking up the codes P0420 bank 1 was the upstream on the driverside and the P0430 bank 2 was the downstream passenger side? I do still have the catalysts installed. I have not heard or seen any exhaust leaks. I used electronic CRC 5103 QD Electronic Cleaner for the female connections before I installed the new 02 sensors. But I think what really has me puzzled is the fact that I have never seen a code be cleared and just as soon as the codes are clear they appear right back after OBDII reader re-reads for codes ( before I even try to start the truck ) This is what is so puzzling to me. I have had other Toyotas along with Chevys and Fords and have never seen a code pop in a re-read before the trucks even get started. Any one with any ideas?

 

Your reader may be reading it as a pending fault until the it gets a "pass" decision from the diagnostic. Most catalyst diagnostics require the vehicle to be up to temperature and have a certain airflow, which is why you must drive it and not just idle it for the lamp to come on. Most code readers will have an emissions readiness tab to show you if the diagnostic has ran or not, this prevents people from clearing codes in the parking lot before getting an inspection.

I assure you this is for both downstream sensors but usually not caused by the sensor. Its either leaks or bad or missing cats. If you have inspections it'll need new cats (the primary ones before the downstream sensors). If you don't have inspections then there's ways to get around those faults but not ideal.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! I will try to replace the other downstream 02 as well and see if that helps. I do not live in a state that requires the inspections thankfully. I just want the codes gone so it does not affect idle and gas usage. Also the check engine being on all the time is not a comforting image. I did notice this morning after unhooking the battery terminals over night I got to add 2 new codes to the list. Its now showing P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low input and P1613 Secondary Air Injection System Driver. I have done cleaned the Mass air flow with mass cleaner spray, replaced the air box filter, changed all teh coil packs with denso brand and added new plugs and gapped them .043. I just hate to keep sinking money into something without knowing what the heck is going on. All the advice I get I am very thankful for!

 

Bypass the secondary air injection system. I don't know where to find the purchase page anymore but its like $50

The p0420 and p0430 are only catalyst inefficiency faults. The downstream sensors don't affect air fuel ratio. I would put the original upstream sensor you pulled out back in, it had no faults. I wouldn't bother replacing the other downstream, it didn't fix the other side and they aren't bad. You have bad cats and a failing Secondary Air Injection system.

 

Thank you so much. I have saw 2-3 different ones in a search would hate to buy the wrong one.. Do you know of a brand and style that you would recommend for me? Thank you so much for all the help!

 

The one I've used in the past is by "slyfox" but I don't know where to buy it anymore. There used to be an ebay link I thought but I didn't see it on a quick search.

 

Have you looked at the live stream data from the O2 sensors? Does your reader have that ability?

 

I see a Hewitt-Tech I will keep looking and thanks. If anyone finds it please post it for me here. These forums are awesome. I will update back after I get one and get it installed.

 

It does have live stream but I would not know what to look for I have the innova 3031c reader. Is there something I should look for?

 

I’ve had the Hewitt bypass on my 07 for almost 3yrs and two state inspections. Great product imo

 

Found it. Still running on my old 07 4runner over 5 years, 2 years on my 07 tundra.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Slyfox75-A...-CABLE-for-Tundra-Sequoia-LC-LX-/143371402266

 

Will this one here I wonder fix the rough idle? I would assume that I would have to still replace that last downstream 02 to hope that clears that code. I think my main goal is to get the idle and hesitation to stop then i could deal with trying to get the 02 issues to go away.

 

This should help your aip 1613 fault which is most likely causing your rough running issue. The check engine light will still come on for 0420 and 0430 until you replace the cats or simulate the downstream signal.

 

Thanks what was so weird is that I just reset the ECU with leaving the terminals off and the 02 codes are not showing now. Thankfully! Wonder if that could be whats causing the Mass Air Low code?

 

I did message SlyFox and he told me that his will not fix that code that I should ask the Hewitt guy. Hopefully one of them will work.

 

I think you need the blocking plates to totally bypass the saip
Hewitt will help you

 

UPDATE: tried something that I was reading online to stop the code for the saip. I unplugged the neg battery over night and the next day that code did stop. I have been driving it for a week now and that code has not popped again. I am still getting the P0430 P0420 and the code for the mass air flow. I just got in the cats and will have them on today. Driver side cat tested with infrared gun was like 305 front side and 310 back side, pass side was 380 front side and 295ish back side before I do the change. But a I have replaced the PCV valve since last time I posted as I was noticing a little blue smoke on start up and about 10 secs of rough idle on start up. This did help that some but not fully. Also started the truck yesterday and noticed that it had the rough idle bad and the check engine light came on and I was getting misfire codes and was putting out the most blue smoke I ever saw the truck do, the idle did not return back to normal even when I shut off the truck and started it again. It did not want to start back so easy either. The starter engaged and you could hear the engine trying to hit and it just couldnt make it. After 5 time of turning the key over it started but so still just as rough. But what I noticed that was so weird and has me thinking I may have a bad ECU is I reset the codes with my OBDII reader and it started like nothing was ever wrong??? This truck has me scratching my head for sure. Any advice would be more than welcomed.

 

UPDATE #2: I replaced the mass air flow sensor and replaced the cats on both sides. This seemed to fix the P0420 and P0430 error code. BUT still getting a misfire on #2 and #4 codes when the truck goes into passing gear around the 2000 rpm area its like a cut out loss of power for a moment then its back to normal then like 2 seconds later the same thing and this is over and over while around the 2k rpm range going up a hill. If I press on the gas a little more and it goes over 2200 rpm then the truck runs perfect and you couldnt tell it had any issues but that 2000k rpm mark up a hill seems to be where the issue is showing. Thinking if this truck has a inline fuel filter? Maybe replace the fuel injectors? Could it be a bad ECU? Could it be the fuel pressure? A lot of what ifs... Any advice?

I would like to add that the VSC light stays lit since I got the truck on the instrument cluster.

 

Anyone have any ideas for me?

 

UPDATE: I took her into the Toyota Dealership about a week ago and was told that the angle sensor and the fuel pump is only holding about 20lbs of pressure. So if anyone is having the 2000k RPM bogging slog with getting lean and misfiring on cylinders and hesitation check your fuel pressure.I think on the 2010 Tundra Flex it needs to hold 40 pounds. If you have a flex fuel it is kinda a you know what to replace. The youtube videos show the standard install and removal for the non-TRD and non-Flex Fuel models. Mine was Flex and it was a lot harder to work with. The skid plate has to be removed, the main lines on the rear are the same and the lines in the front has 3 different lines and the connector plug. You also can not drop the tank as low as you can in a standard to unhook all the lines. You need to have the truck up on ramps in the rear or a lift. The fuel pump fixed all of my issues. I also would do what I did and go with the factory assembly. You can save money by going to McGeorge Toyota Parts. I saved $200 by buying it all from them over local. I know that everyone stopped replying but its cool. Just wanted to help out if someone else ever comes across this. Goodluck and be sure to clean and wash you fuel tank with dawn and use a hair dryer to dry the tank out for about 30 mins after you wash and wipe it out with clean old towels. Be sure to get all of the dirt off the fuel tank. The flex fuel model also has a rubber cover over the top of the fuel pump area that seemed to just hold in all the mud and dirt. I cut that off and would recommend anyone do the same.

 

If flexfuel engine, Did you ever check your fuel ethanol % in a OBD reader? There's quite a number of other people having the same problem, which seems to be solved by replacing the fuel pump AND an ECU reflash (TSB-0166-19). Becuase the problem tends to be intermittent or associated with cold weather, many thought they solved it with one or the other solution only to have the problem come back later. May want to check that out and ask dealer if they updated your ECU too. Just in case

 

Hello I did not but I also have not had anymore issues with the truck and so far its been running great!