What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

About 2 weeks

 

New here. Please let me know if this is the place to share this type of info (??). I also have it on my build thread.

After a few weeks, the sPOD BantamX is up and running along with an Echo Auto. Power to the Echo device is controlled through the sPOD so it’s only active when needed. I’m hoping it will be useful for hands free checking of weather & traffic reports during long trips. If you’re wondering, no, the truck doesn’t have the JBL Entune system so no integrated apps.

Here’s an overview of the basic install and I’ll highlight areas where I had trouble. The sPOD kit is comprised of two main components, the BantamX “brain” and the switch panel. The installation was pretty straight forward as per the instructions. The cable that connects the BantamX unit (located in the engine compartment) to the switch panel in the cab has RJ-45 connectors on each end (think of it as a traditional computer networking cable). Getting the RJ-45 connector through one of the spare nipples in the firewall was difficult, very difficult. It took me pushing the cable from the inside, under the dash, and my husband pulling from the other side in the engine compartment to finally get the cable end through the firewall. I thought for certain we had pulled the connector off or damaged the cable but no, all was good. Kudos to sPOD and whoever makes their cables. As a lesson learned, highly recommend using silicon spray on the inside of the nipple and on the cable. Think this would have made a world of difference and cut down on the amount of swearing that was happening.

BantamX unit was installed on a Rago air compressor mount positioned over the fuse box ( ) in the engine compartment (all cables are run to/from one side of the mount so it can be pivoted out of the way for access to the OEM fuse box.). The positive (+) cable is terminated to a Blue Seas 40amp MRBF block on the battery (https://www.bluesea.com/products/2151/Dual_MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A). I really like these types of fuses cuz they are heavy duty and take up so little space. The sPOD instructions caution you to not connect the negative (-) cable directly to the battery if your vehicle has a smart charging system so I used the chassis ground located on the fender next to the battery.

The eight button sPOD switch panel is mounted to the overhead console along with an Echo Auto. I spent a lot of time researching and trying to figure out the best location for the panel and finally settled on using the SDHQ overhead mount. Details can be found here: https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections...-sdhq-built-switch-pros-rcr-12-overhead-mount. I’m trying to keep the cab clean and uncluttered so I didn’t want the panel mounted flat on the center console where dog hair and dog dirt seem to collect (I’d be kidding myself if I thought the truck belonged to me. It really belongs to the dogs and I’m merely their chauffeur). The SDHQ overhead mount is made for a SwitchPro system so I had to make a few adjustments to accommodate the sPOD panel but all-in-all I’m very happy with the way it turned out.

sPOD BantamX installed on the Rago air compressor mount -



Positive cable connected to MRBF fuse on the battery -



Negative cable is connected to the chassis ground next to the battery -



Here’s the sPOD 8 button switch panel and Echo Auto mounted to the overhead console. The SDHQ overhead mount (this the black plastic insert you see in the pic, think it is 3D printed) is made for a SwitchPro so I filled in the recessed area with black Kaizen foam and surface mounted the sPOD switch panel to it. You can barely see the corners of the recessed area. The Echo Auto is attached with 3M tape.




Holes had to be drilled for the communications & power cables and for the two 1/4” x 20 screws located on the back of the switch panel.




I ran into a problem because the two 1/4” x 20 screws are permanently connected to the back of the sPOD switch and were not long enough to pass through the black SDHQ panel insert so a nut couldn’t be threaded on. Thought I was going to have to drill out the back of the black panel until I stumbled across “brad hole tee nuts”

$10 The Hillman Group 2511 1/4-20 x 5/16 x 3/4" Brad Hole Tee Nut, 13-Pack

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HYLZ33W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. These things turned out to be the perfect solution. Because of their T shape, the nuts were able to grab the recessed threads on the screws. I considered making flat bottom holes so the T-nuts would sit flush but there was no need. The sPOD switch panel is light enough and the T-nuts tightened down nicely so I didn’t need to do anything else. I used a little Loctite purple #222 on the threads to make certain they won’t loosen up.

This is the back of the black SDHQ overhead panel -





The last item is the Echo Auto device. I used Anderson Power Pole connectors so the wires can be disconnected if I ever need to drop the overhead panel. The connection was extended to the BantamX box in the engine compartment using 16awg wire. Both the sPOD cable and Echo device wires were run through the headliner, down the driver’s side A pillar, dropped straight down the side of the front dash to the firewall pass through. I was a little concerned the sPOD cable might be too short from the run through the headliner but it wasn’t. It was the perfect length, like it was custom made for this particular install.



The next and final step is where I screwed up. Big time. I must have been suffering from brain cramps or too much alcohol because I completely forgot the Echo device runs on 5 volts, not 12v. I connected the Echo to the sPOD BantamX, turned on the switch, and the cab immediately smelled of burnt electronics. I had fried the Echo device and killed Alexa.

The fix was to grab another Echo device (ugh) and also install a 12v to 5v step down transformer. Picked one up on Amazon for ~$9 (

$10 BINZET DC Converter Step Down Regulator 5V Regulated Power Supplies Transformer Converter (5V 3A 15W)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3MHRNO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The wiring for the Echo goes like this: BantamX 12v ==> 12v step down transformer to 5v ==> 5v Echo device.



No more fried electronics and the sPOD will make it easy to add more mods.

 

Took a trip out to Big Bend Ranch State Park last weekend and did some off-roading. I must have hit every bush in west Texas.
I washed, clay bar, put some clear coat on deeper scratches, wet sand, compound, and put a ceramic coat on. I still have the front and driver side to do.

 

Yea I have been thinking about hitting BBSP and I’m planning on doing that vinyl trail armor down the side

 

All trucks, and ESPECIALLY 4x4 trucks, should automatically come with thicker paint and a protective layer thicker and tougher than the clearcoat. You did a great job of cleaning yours up, but you should not have had to do all that.

 

This is my plan. Expensive but less work in the end
https://goat-truckarmor.com/

 

The trails get progressively tighter and more difficult the further from the main road. I went down Las Burras and hit trailer hitch and side steps a few times. I didn't know what to expect or I wouldn't have gone so far.

 

Half the fun is heading into the unknown and then fixing stuff you broke at home.

I’ve wanted to take my family to BBSP for a while. We’re pretty far away, but it seems like a great adventure.

 

What about stuff you break and have to fix while you're still on the trail lol

I'm glad I've never had to battery weld anything with a nickel and some jumper cables like Angus

 

It was just me and the dog, so breaking down would have suck. I checked in with the rangers before heading out, and if anything happened it would have been a 7-8 mile hike to get help.
There was only 2 spots where I felt endangered of getting high-centered if I slide off. Glad I brought my impact wrench. I disconnected my rear sway bar mid way through. I think it helped.

 

Did you use a specific DIY video or guide to remove all the silver dash panels? That matte black is sharp!

 

Installed my Bull Ring tie downs today. Took about 30 mins. Love the look of them.

(Please excuse the dirty truck)

 

Glad you were able to find some!

 

Got a flat on the way to work, was at least able to get off the freeway and into a parking lot. Then realized when I tested my safejack at home when I got it last year it was with inflated tires, and is too tall at static height to fit under anywhere with a deflated tire. Used the oem jack to get the axle high enough to put the safejack under. Good thing I put a mallet in my truck since I had to beat if off of the hub.

Bumped the jack up a bit to have enough room to fit the spare on. Got up and turned around to grab the spare and the truck rolled back off the jack and slid a couple feet, great. Whole lot must have been on an angle and I didn't even realize it. Had to use my insurance roadside as I couldn't fit either jack anywhere to lift it again. He had a 3 ton floor jack that worked. Went home since I was soaked.

Considering now 2 of these stockers are at ~56k, one (that got punctured last year) is I'm guessing ~12k, I didn't want to get another replacement. Just ordered 4 new Cooper Discoverer AT3 LT's in 275/65r18. I debated on the XLT's in 275/70r18 but didn't want to get a matching size spare. These should look better anyway over the stock Michelins. Got them through Discount Tire, have an appointment on Friday.




I still don't trust either jack for the future though.

I at least did one thing I was wanting to, removed my antenna and capped it with a bolt. Got annoyed of working around it when scraping my windows. I never use AM/FM radio anymore anyway.

 

Oh Dang. I'm glad you didn't get hurt when the truck slid off the jack.

 

Ouch, sorry to hear.

 

Well that's an adventure that I just can't bring myself to click "like" on. Glad you're safe and got it figured out, but dayum.

 

Yeah I'm glad it didn't happen when I was under it, I at least was jacking it up from in front of the axle, and it slid backwards so I think I would have been ok even if I was.

Wondering if I should get a floor jack to carry with as well. I really like the safejack and the attachments but if I can't use it with a flat it's not going to do me much good.

 

I know it’s not a big deal to most, but I updated my startup image.

 

It’s a big deal to us 2020 and 2021 owners because we can’t do that.

 

Formula One Pinnacle 30% tint all the way around done yesterday and Line-X bedliner done today.

 

I leave a coat of mud on mine for extra protection

 

Ordered directly from the company. Only $7 shipping to Canada and took 8 days. Dumb thing is their site doesn't show the 9064 (nickel plate without the router bit). You have to search the site for 9064. I let the company know.

Was really happy with the service.

 

Good info on the flat tire- I am procuring a safe jack at some point (keeping tock jack and some 2x6s as well.... I will put a mallet in my truck.

 

*stock... between auto spell and IPA Im screwed.

 

For the longest time, that’s what I thought a “clay bar” was...

 

How do you like the Roll and Lock and the racks? Rocks are removable, correct?

 

Glad I could give some info from my misfortune. It was totally an oversight on my part testing the jack out on the truck as normal, not thinking it would obviously be lower with a flat. I may take a look at the stock jack and see if the top cap can be taken off and at least put one of the safejack attachments on to be a little more secure than what it is.

I think the wheel getting stuck is just a result of aluminum and steel interface. If you rotate your own tires I'd clean up the mating surfaces and put some anti-seize on them.

I agree on the boards, I'd like to keep something for chocks at least.

 

@2020Platinum has alot of good stuff on his channel. He has the dash removal as well. www.youtube.com/NitroZ18Fishing

 

What dash mat are you using?