Cant open my door with dead battery

Glad you Figured out and resolved the situation. Think is, you're not the first person this has happened to. . Apparently it's fairly common? Even with people that haven't fooled with swapping handles and such. . Kinda makes me wanna disconnect the battery and try mine.

 

Thanks for posting this.
I replaced my black handles with painted handle 4 years ago.
I just went outside and made sure my key works and it did.
First time I've ever stuck the key in the door since I bought the truck in 2014.

Just a side note, if you turn the key to the right once it unlocks the driver's door.
If you turn it twice, it unlocks all the doors...

 

Good thread. Changing my handles today.
Everyone that suggested jumping the battery using the alternator wires needs to try it. I'm just curious if it would work. But unwilling to risk setting my truck on fire.

 

The suggestion was not "jumping the battery using the alternator wires".

The alternator wires are sized only for charging the battery with the alternator, and are not heavy enough for starting current. The suggestion was to slow charge the battery, using a battery charger, through the very same wires that the alternator uses for charging the battery. If alternator charging doesn't set your truck on fire, then applying a rated charger won't. You just need to keep charging rate under the fuse rating if you want to continue charging. The objective was only enough voltage in the battery to unlock the door. It was offered only as a desperate move to save breaking a glass or a call-out fee.

The idea was not going to work in this instance anyway. If a discharged battery is allowed to freeze, then it's unlikely to take a charge, or be useful again. The OP definitely made the right choice for his circumstance.

 

I like that idea.

 

After thinking longer about this I think I would go with MJoeP and do the battery tender but probably go with the plus or the 800 just for price and you dont have to mount that bracket somewhere.

 

I have applied 12v to the terminal on the alternator in the pic posted earlier in the thread to unlock the doors with the key fob. Been awhile, think I used the battery from my sons power wheel. Putting 12v through the alternator/battery feed carefully and briefly will allow fob operation with a bad battery like the op, or no battery if nothing else is wrong. Still way easier to call locksmith.

 

Hood latch design has changed since second gen. As soon as it stops raining I m going to install a second cable along side existing one, and let it hang straight down so I can open hood from outside.

 

Thanks op. very interesting and informative thread!

We all know that Tundra has a weak battery or the car may draw too much current with the engine off (fuel evap system?, misc electronic, etc.) just a guess ... so I was getting worried and was looking for a solid solution to a non-existent problem.

After reading every post (5 pages), my conclusion is we should NOT de-chrome! lol ... Or if you work on your car, you better know what you are doing. Also not sure about the guy who powered the door lock mechanism using license plate bulb socket/circuit. I recall reading that thread in old days and sounds like relays will prevent doing that! Can you trust whatever you read on the internet?

I still have all the chrome the car came with. I was also upset when I bought the car since the rear bumper was black and not chrome. the dealer said due to the rear sensor sensitivity, it can not come with the chrome bumper.

 

btw, to confirm, I will have to disconnect my battery and see if I can open the doors with the key.

 

I installed one of those in my wheel well just incase I ever have a dead battery and a broken door lock. Simultaneously.

 

LOL. So clean Joon, little jealous, wish I had Kyle move my battery.