Likely my first and last toyota - Wiring Harness and electrical

no it has not

 

I agree with the "thread being a rats nest" comment as well as the observation: "dealer incompetence."

I'm going to take it to a trusted resource and be willing to pay out of pocket.
After 2.5 years of reliable use and I just did new brakes, new tags, new exhaust, new shocks, new lift, well.... I owe that I suppose. sure is a confidence killer waiting on critter buffet to start- the dealer was very adamant about that issue, I vehemently disagreed from the start, especially without any evidence, then they said it was "very common" and persisted with the notion...

so, even if I can have it fixed properly by my independent, then forever it will always be associated with strong potential for rodent damage..... on top of ghost electrical problems...

 

I've had a Toyota in my driveway for about 20y....outside, no garage, never had rodent problems.

Maybe deal with the rodents?

 

there aren't any rodents.
only ones in the dealers mind.

 

Hey OP, I wish you the best of luck. No sarcasm implied. Hope your guy figures it out quickly and cheaply.

 

Gotcha.

Now I see where the rodents claim is. But for what it's worth, there are rodents in the city (mice, voles, squirrels etc) that can live under the hood etc.

Doesn't seem like you are happy with it either way, so hope you can sell/trade it for something that makes you happy.

 

And PLEASE update us on what your trusted guy finds!

 

My thought exactly. For a moment I thought I was on the F-150 forums! OP, sorry about your issues I had a similar issue with my F-150 and the dealer. It was 50% a shitty vehicle but the other 50% was a shitty dealer. The dealer ruined it for me with Fords. Hope you get it sorted out. Tundras are proven highly reliable but they can and do break, good dealers help smooth out the process when they do break and a bad dealer can really make a fixable problem really go bad. Good luck

 

I also noticed there were more than 1 fuse that can effect the windows and door locks.
Not saying it is a blown fuse, just saying there are a lot of connected electrical circuits (or paths) as you suggested..

 

@first and last toyota here are the power window diagrams from 2015

 

OP doesn’t do electrical problems - let the dealer figure it out, then he’ll sell and get a reliable RAM or F-150.

 

Any updates, @first and last toyota ?

 

It's more than likely not caused by rodent chew. I had a similar issue with my 2012 Sr 5.7. My truck started running really bad around 140k miles. It had the sound of a burnt valve when running. It failed the dollar bill test and everything. I brought it to toyota and they said I had a burnt valve and recommended an engine replacement. I brought it to an old guy that works on foreign cars recommended to me by someone else and he said there was no compression in cylinder 5 and I needed a new motor. Another person said it had a burnt valve and needed a top end rebuild and a good friend of mine that is a mechanic agreed with him. I was looking at $5,000+. Actually 3 other people said it was a burnt valve.

A customer I was doing a remodel for at the time told me to bring it to his mechanic. So I did and i told him number 5 cylinder has a burnt valve and after about 1 month he said the number 5 injector was not firing. So it could have been the computer or something as he did several tests including a leak down which ruled out the second guy saying I had no compression in cylinder 5 and I was going to need a new motor. He did tell me that the engine looked really well maintained.

Anyway the shop kept doing tests on my truck. Everyone in the shop got covid and they had my truck almost 3 months. What he found was a diteriated wire in the wiring harness that sends power/signal to the injector. The outer coating was completely untouched and the copper on the inside had a spot where it basically just corroded and was no longer there. He spliced in some wire, and it has ran great ever since. He charged me $640. Better than $5,000.

His words were " It's very alarming to see something like this, this is definitely a first for me and I doubt I will ever see it again but it will open my eyes on where to look the next time I get a toyota tundra in here."

Ever since it was in the shop the ac has not worked. It worked great before but not at all since and I have not put it back in the shop as I can't wait another 3 months for them to find another corroded wire. That's why I was on here, trying to figure out my blinking ac light issue. I just keep the ac jumped out in the relay during the hot months. Only thing I have problems with is it freezes up occasionally. I plan to try and get fixed soon I I can't figure it out on my own.

The main wire harness is not a service part meaning its not readily available for purchase and it should never ever need to be changed for a 100 years unless there is rodent damage. Finding a wire harness also isn't easy or cheap. $3,000+$3000 labor. Makes you wonder how many times a toyota has been junked due to being told it needs a new motor or something extremely expensive due to a diteriated wire. Or how many of the posts on here where people may have never figured out the issue are caused by something like this. How the mechanic found this break in the line I have no idea. Maybe luck. How he actually figured out to look for it is the bigger question. How much would it have ended up costing me at the dealership? New motor would have had the same issue with that old wiring harness. Would I have had to pay for it all? Lol

Makes you wonder.

IMO this should be a recall and covered by Toyota!

 

I've had the pressure switch go out on the A/C line on a few cars that caused the A/C to not work. I don't know if Tundra has them but I would think they do. The best way to test one is to just jump the wires in the pressure switch and if the A/C compressor engages that the switch is your issue. It may or not be your problem.