ADS rear bypasses and Deaver leafs

Let me start out by saying I’ve been a long time lurker on this forum...I’ve got a 2010 DC 4x4.

With that out of the way, I’ve been on a mission to swap out my suspension and decided to go with ADS coilovers with clickers up front and ADS triple bypasses With a custom Deaver pack built off their U748.

I had some time after Christmas and installed the rear suspension. I knew about the bypass noises, but GOD DAMN it’s loud when going slow and over speed bumps...I actually think something is wrong because of how it sounds (like something is going to break).

I’ve double checked all torque settings on the shocks, leaf springs, u bolts, and everything else I touched during the install and the noise when slow and over speed bumps continues.
What I haven’t done is mess with the rebound/compression adjustments on the shocks.

I’m curious if there’s anybody local to me that has experience with this setup is willing to help me out and confirm if this is normal or something’s seriously wrong. I’m in Rancho Santa Margarita 92688.

Thanks!
D

 

Sorry, I don’t have ADS but I do have a question about your custom Deavers. What exactly did you get customized?

 

Have you tried reaching out to ADS or Matt at MCMFab directly to talk?

Bypasses are noisy.

Race truck parts make race truck noises.

 

Yes, they are loud. They have valves that open and close with some violence.

My old Bronco had bypasses front and rear. It was my daily. I had MANY occasions where people would come up to me in a parking lot and say that something is wrong with my truck because it was making all sorts of noises unfamiliar to them.

I don't have any ADS experience, but I'm under the impression that they are the quieter of the bypass options.

 

X2 on reaching out the Matt at MCMFab.

I have ADS 3.0 up front, 2.5 ADS bypasses in the rear as well as the Deaver U748 springs. I expected clicking in the rear but wasn’t expecting the clatter, especially when driving slowly and hitting a seam/crack.

Matt passes along some good setup advice and you may be able to dial some of the noise out. Personally, I have not tried and I have gotten used to the noise to some extent. This is a case where I got exactly what I paid for… A serious set of shocks that are inherently noisy.

John

 

damn beat me to it lol

 

I'm curious how you "dial some of the noise out". I've never tuned bypasses to reduce noise. I buy them because I want them to perform and to me, the noise is a side effect. Do you just turn the adjusters till they stop working? I'm not comprehending how this is done. The tubes are position sensitive not speed sensitive, so if the piston is in the middle (where it should be) at ride height, any movement, compression or rebound, will activate the bypasses.

 

I should have been more clear earlier. Sorry about that. I, like you, didn’t or wouldn’t adjust the settings just to quiet it up. That’s why I just live with it the way it is. It was my understanding that technically you could close off that zone completely.

The setup has been spectacular so far with everything that’s been thrown at it...but going down a crowded street with it clattering sometimes gets annoying. Whatever, it’s my truck and I shouldn’t care what others think.

John

 

I carry about 450lbs of weight in the back (RTT, bed rack, tools etc...). I read good things about the leaf pack, but there were a lot of complaints of the leafs flattening out quickly. I reached out to Deaver and they built a pack based off the U748 to accommodate my needs.

 

I knew what I signed up for in terms of the valve noise, but I’m not sure that what I’m hearing on the speed bumps is the valves or something else. I can hear the valves as I’m driving through town and have no issues with the noise. I’m more so trying to confirm that I didn’t fuck something up during the install.

Now, I haven’t touched the rebound or compression tubes so that may be something to explore?

I’m also hearing a strange clunk at times and I suspect it’s the leafs making contact with the brake lines or something else...so that’s something else I have to address.

 

@CallMeD When you torqued everything down was the truck under its own weight?
Do you like how the rear rides right now? If so I would leave the bypass tubes alone, I don't think adjusting the tubes is gunna do anything as far as noise goes, it'll only change the way it rides. Its kinda hard to fuck something up, putting leafs and shocks on is pretty straight forward. I also don't think the brake lines would cause a clunking sound or even come in contact with anything. Maybe stick a GoPro under there and drive around and see if you can pinpoint it, or have someone get some videos of you going over some bumps so we can get a better idea of the clunking sound. I also have Deaver U748s and they are silent for the most part and don't come close to contacting anything.

 

@TG705 I torqued everything down while the truck was in the air.

The rear rides good, but have noticed it’s a tad bouncy on small cracks and minor road imperfections but there’s certain sections on the toll road where the rear would bottom out and buck like crazy in the past and it’s night and day with the new suspension. I’ll try to get a video of the noises. I did notice today that it looks like my driver side leaf spring is making contact with the brake line.

 

@CallMeD Re-torque everything while the truck is on the ground under its full weight especially the U bolts. Are you talking about the line that bolts to the axle with a bracket and goes over the spring like I pictured below? That line moves with the axle and springs and wouldn’t make a clunking sound.

 

I have the same ADS setup. At slower speeds you can hear the noise more. Mine sounds almost like loose bolts. At first I thought I did something wrong but Matt at MCM said that's normal.
I heard somewhere that they can add a different internal to quiet it some but I not sure.

 

I have the same setup and I don't hear much noise. (ads bypasses and custom deaver leaf pack).

 

Max out (full turn in) on the bypass valves and they "should" stop clicking iirc. That will disable that tube by super preloading the check valve so it can't actuate, and that in turn would stop the noise (so could help you troubleshoot). Do you have bump stops? If your bump stops are hitting they'll make a slapping sound. I'm surprised you'd hear that much, my last racecar had triples on every corner and I could barely hear them even with the helmet off.

 

@TG705 I re-torqued the u bolts this morning and looked around to see if anything else looked off.
I noticed it looks like the leaf springs may be making contact with the exhaust as well. I’m still not sure that both of these are causing the sounds I’ve been hearing.





I need to drive around today to see if the noise remains after the re-torque. I’ll try to take some video as well.

 

Your 2nd pic,

If that contact is "bothersome" just flip the bolt the other way. The bolt head doesn't stick out off the bracket as far as the nut/threaded bolt side do.

 

You’re gunna have to cut the exhaust. Those springs with the ads have quite a bit of droop. And I just looked at my set up again, I have the same markings from the spring on that line, never even noticed it for the year that ive had them. You can do what 14burrito said or bend the brackets enough so it doesn’t contact.

 

I put spiral wrap around the brake lines to protect against rubbing.

$9 TV PC Cinema Cable Tidy Wrap Organizer Spiral Wrapping Band 12mm 12M (Dia 12MM-Length12M, Black)

https://www.amazon.com/Cinema-Organ...eywords=spiral+wrap+1/2&qid=1610161263&sr=8-3

 

I also had to cut my exhaust so it didn't make contact.

 

Alright...I had some time this weekend to install the ADS coilovers w/ clickers and 650lb springs...spoke to a few buddies about the clunk sound and played a bit with the bypass adjustments. We believe the clunk is something binding...leaf springs maybe?

Went for multiple drives to replicate the clunk sound and it appears to only happen when I’m making a right hand turn at slow speeds on an uneven surface which causes the weight to shift to the left as I’m turning. You will hear the clunk 9 times out of 10 in the scenario above. It’s been hard to get a video to showcase the sound. Next step is to loosen the front and rear bolts for the leafs and lubricate the bushings.

 

UPDATE

So I decided to loosen bolts on leaf springs and re-torque...the noise was still there.

I then decided to remove the front sway bar because why not. My rear sway bar has been off since I bought the truck. It’s been 2 days and the noise seems to be gone. I don’t know if that’s because the end links were toast or something else.