2021 Crewmax SR5 audio - too much muddy bass!

Just got my 2021 Crewmax SR5. Expected the stock audio to be rather mediocre and the Tundra gets an "A for effort" in that area! It would be difficult to construct a system that is worse, considering that we're in 2021 and electronics & computing are abundant and powerful.

The Good:
- It was "free"
- Steering wheel controls

The Bad:
- Very little audio control, only Treble/Mid/Bass/Fade
- Some canned DSP profiles, all seem worthless
- Even with Bass turned all the way down, there's _still_ a great deal of muddy bass!

What's next?
- What system do I have? Apparently it's a 'Plus' system but I couldn't find any documentation or specs. I do have satellite radio, HD radio and a 'Map' button on the unit
- There are tweeters in the back doors, how many total? Seems like quite a few.
- Is there anything that can be done to fix this? Replace speakers? New head unit?
- What is the box under the front passenger seat? An Amp? There were no markings.
- I have a Kicker Hideaway subwoofer, it can take speaker level inputs. I'd love to integrate it but it seems like all the bass bleeding over from the stock sound would interfere with it.

Thanks for any hints!

 

Search around here for a litany of options.

Comes down to keep stocking head unit or replacing.

tech12volts is the top recommended. they're a great group and can help put together the right package YOU want.

Don't bother hooking up that crappy sub to the speaker level input. It will sound like ass across the board. You need it hooked up to a DSP.

 

- There are tweeters in the back doors, how many total? Seems like quite a few. 4 Tweeters total, 2 dash + 2 rear door
- Is there anything that can be done to fix this? Replace speakers? New head unit? Headunit will help massively, honestly the stock speakers arent bad once you address the poor stock equalization and attenuation that occurs at higher volumes. Basically the sound signal isnt always flat and certain frequencies arent receiving equal power amplification or boost. Either a DSP amp or new HU is recommended.
- What is the box under the front passenger seat? An Amp? There were no markings. Stock amp/
- I have a Kicker Hideaway subwoofer, it can take speaker level inputs. I'd love to integrate it but it seems like all the bass bleeding over from the stock sound would interfere with it. It would help with the bass of course. Not sure what you mean by bass bleeding all over though.

 

Thanks!

So if I replace the HU do I still need to "fix" the signal going to the factory Amp? (the one under the passenger seat)

My problem with the stock bass is that I can't turn it off. I have the setting turned all the way down and there's still a ton of 'boomy' bass. Not tight at all, there's very little range. If I add a sub I can at least adjust the level and the crossover point, but the factory system will still be sending out crappy bass in the mean time even if it's "off"!

I've searched and although there's some advice many of the threads are already a few years old. The headunits people mention are no longer in production. I'm ok with replacing the HU if that's what it takes.

I would like to:
- Retain all the steering wheel functionality
- Add Navigation if possible (only if it's a unit that can be upgraded via software later)
- Wish to have Android Auto, _wireless_ if possible
- Keep factory speaker wires
- Deal with that factory Amp somehow - or whatever it is that is the root of the audio mixing problems (Is it the HU or the Amp?)

 

Call James at Tech12volts. He hooked me up with a system that checks all your boxes. I ended up replacing the HU, amp, every speaker, and added two 10” subs and it’s the best mod I’ve done. Using a maestro unit, you can retain all steering wheel controls and OEM functionality. I did reuse the stock speaker wiring - Tech12volts will provide all the adapters you need so as to not cut a single wire.

 

The problem right now for the 20+ models is harnesses for the HU replacement. I went with Crux which I have done in the past, only to find out their harness doesnt include all the needed parts. They included plugs to retain steering wheel function, head unit power, and the dash wiring. Nothing for the amp, so I have no way to retain the doors without installing my own wiring or amp. The idatalink harnesses might work, but its a gamble still.

So if I replace the HU do I still need to "fix" the signal going to the factory Amp? (the one under the passenger seat)
No, technically the HU will have a or allow a flat signal without cutting or attenuating any power to any frequency, unless you wanted to do so.

Not tight at all, there's very little range. If I add a sub I can at least adjust the level and the crossover point, but the factory system will still be sending out crappy bass in the mean time even if it's "off"!
Aftermarket HU in my 19 CM fixed this issue, sealing the doors also help immensely. Sub of course will help with the <150hz range, but doors will still be what you describe as muddy until you either add an additional DSP or new HU. The factory stereo has its own DSP as all our current stereos do, but it is pretty poor. The stock 3 band EQ is terrible.

 

Just an FYI, 20+ models have a new wiring harness with fewer plugs, be careful saying the maestro will work, I havent seen that confirmed yet. I can say from personal experience the Crux unit for the 20+ models doesnt retain the amp wiring plug, and has no door speaker function.

 

Thanks for the heads up. First I’ve heard there is an issue. I think I’ve seen a couple people with MY 20 and 21 who have done their HU so maybe they can weigh in.

 

It’s fine if your don’t utilize the stock amp, at least with the crux. So if they did replace the amp that would be part of it. Personally I’d really like to know if the maestro has the correct plugs to retain it, hopefully someone has found out.

 

Unless I’m missing something, this seems to indicate it will work -
https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/RR-TOY/ADS-RR(SR)-TOY03-DS-IG-EN_20201124.pdf

 

The Crux Swrty-61c stated the same, has 3 plugs, like the maestro details. It was missing the plug for the amp, so it need 4.

It has a black wire harness plug, those goto the dash. There was no plug or wiring for the amp circuit. I would need to check the maestro visually to know more, but the manual doesn’t inspire confidence. I can get some pictures up later to day that more clearly details the issue.

 

Thanks everyone.

My next steps seem clear:
- Buy a new HU, example DMX957XR (prefer traditional double DIN rather than a 'floating' screen)
- Run RCA from HU to the existing non-JBL factory amp
- Run RCA from HU to my existing Sub (Kicker Hideaway, will be behind Crewmax back seat)
- Run power to the sub
- Use factory speakers & wiring for the time being
- No need for a DSP in front of the factory amp since HU is being replaced

Will that work? Does the non-JBL factory amp have RCU inputs? (Couldn't tell, it has a black plastic cover)

Why do some people kill the factory tweeters & middle speaker in the dash? Do they sound like crap compared to the door speakers?

 

Unless something changed with the newer trucks, your stock amp will not accept RCAs. You need to to either purchase a new amp and harness adapters or try to keep your stock amp and forgo the RCAs.
My suggestion is to get on the phone with James from Tech12volts to make sure your plan will work on a 2021 model and you’re getting all the equipment necessary for install.

 

Maybe I should call him, but I'm not ready to order. Just investigating.

Unfortunate that there are only two solid answers:
1) Read/search the forums
2) Call tech12volts

I'm not seeing anywhere that the factory Amp is the culprit for the crappy audio. Maybe it is, and I'm fine with replacing it - just not clear on the role of the Amp. Most stock audio systems don't have an amp at all and mine is non-JBL.

 

If you pull one of the stock speakers out and look at them, your confidence in the stock system to sound great with you new HU will be shattered. I think all the OEM cabin speakers combined weigh about the same as one of the 6.5" components I put in to replace them. I'm 99% sure your new HU will put out higher RMS than the OEM amp.

IMO if you're going to go through the trouble of customizing your stereo system you should plan on doing it all (HU, amp, speakers - even if over time) to actually get the benefit of the money being spent. None of the OEM equipment is good.

FWIW - I started asking James questions months before I placed an order and he never made me feel like I was wasting his time.

ETA there is also the issue @Elduder raised which is there are doubts a harness exists for 2020-2021 trucks allowing you to hook up your new HU to the OEM amp.

 

Thanks AZ! Sounds like I'll need to budget at least $1200-1500 for this project. I can hear the wife & kids already: "But you never even listen to music, why do you need it?"

 

As AZ said, the stock speakers are simply terrible. I am far from an audio expert but I did a lot of research on this forum and elsewhere before going with a whole system from JRT/Tech12Volts. If you are going to do it in pieces I would recommend the head unit first, that will make the crappy stock speakers sound a (little) bit better. Then switch out the door speakers for something better. Your new HU will supply enough power to them that you will really hear the difference.

The biggest thing I noticed is how much cleaner 6.5" components sound than the junk 6x9's in the front doors. No more distortion or rattles, just clean sound... and this is with the almost bottom of the line Hertz model which is their K165. They are only $99/pair so great bang for your buck. If you spend twice that you can get some with much better midbass. If you are adding a sub then you will want a new 5 channel amp at that point, then the whole thing will come alive because you'll get more out of the door speakers as well.

According to JRT, the worst part about the stock JBL system is actually the piece of scrap metal they call an amp. It's absolutely pathetic, so you won't see any noticeable improvement until you replace the HU and/or the amp.

Good luck with your system and keep us posted on what you decide to do!

 

Reach out to James at Tech12Volts. He is great. Says it like it is and is very responsive. I am looking to do a total RIP and replace on my 2018 Double Cab Limited and he is "walking" me through the process of selecting the right head unit before we go to the next steps. His recommendation for the Head Unit is the Kenwood DDX9907XR which appears to be a really solid unit if you do the research. I am looking forward to the rest of his suggestions! Please keep us posted on your final build! I cannot wait to finally get some volume and clarity out of those speaker holes!