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Oil change horror

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by tinman10101, May 6, 2018.

  1. May 7, 2018 at 6:45 PM
    #31
    tinman10101

    tinman10101 [OP] Ah cha cha cha

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    Some funny shit :thumbsup:
     
  2. May 7, 2018 at 8:53 PM
    #32
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    Thanks for watching my video. :D :cheers:
     
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  3. May 7, 2018 at 8:55 PM
    #33
    nk1794

    nk1794 Always torque to spec

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    :rofl:
     
  4. Jan 5, 2021 at 11:19 PM
    #34
    Harold_Z

    Harold_Z New Member

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    Sorry for bringing this up
    I wanna say two years later I found out this post right after the same thing happened to me when I try to change oil for first time

    19F453CF-F1D1-441A-8DC3-7504681D7DA2.jpg
     
  5. Jan 6, 2021 at 3:39 AM
    #35
    toyofan87

    toyofan87 Beer thirty

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    Oh boy, not again.. Love me some oil thread.xoNR61O.jpg
     
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  6. Jan 6, 2021 at 4:11 AM
    #36
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    It IS a plastic housing male cover in an aluminum female housing. I'm convinced Toyota never would have used plastic if not for C.A.F.E.
     
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  7. Jan 6, 2021 at 4:29 AM
    #37
    JoshuaA

    JoshuaA Canuck Member

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  8. Jan 6, 2021 at 5:29 AM
    #38
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    So so so close. But no. Their distant 2nd cousin: Corporate Average Fuel Economy.
     
  9. Jan 6, 2021 at 5:42 AM
    #39
    Kung

    Kung [Insert Custom Title Here]

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  10. Jan 6, 2021 at 5:43 AM
    #40
    Mad Max

    Mad Max New Member

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    Its very possible it was over tighted but I witnessed a number of times on my boats and vehicles where I barely snug oil filter with hand and have to use a pipe wrench to remove. Talked to a guy that races cars. He said he has the same thing happen and he runs less than a 1/4 mile. Must be something with the elastomer polymerizing with heat that seizes it to both the car and filter making it difficult to remove.
     
  11. Jan 6, 2021 at 5:48 AM
    #41
    GreatBigAbyss

    GreatBigAbyss New Member

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    LOL, the torque spec is even stamped right on the housing. 25NM.
     
  12. Jan 6, 2021 at 6:06 AM
    #42
    glowblue

    glowblue From time to time

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    I learned from this forum and bought an aluminum housing to install at my next oil change which was last week. I had to use quite a bit of force to remove the plastic housing - and I was the one who installed it the last oil change so I know it didn’t get over torqued. I think the plastic binds up due to being more thermally sensitive when the engine heats up. The aluminum housings do not.

    In any event - changing oil is a breeze now with the right tools - Fumoto valve, RCI skid plate and filter housing drain tool.
     
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  13. Jan 6, 2021 at 6:13 AM
    #43
    joesTundra

    joesTundra New Member

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    mechanics just starting out have a tendacy to tighten nuts and bolts and oil filter way to tight, purchase the motivx filter housing removal tool and it is woth the money to purchase the
    metal filter housing. I started changing my en oil after the free oil changes ended . when I changed my oil at 25.000 the filter had black carbon on the filter and the oil smelled like
    burnt wet wood and black. The filter looked like it was never changed ( no wrench marks on filter and housing). my second free oil change the oil still looked dirty so I decided to change my own oil from there on.
     
  14. Jan 6, 2021 at 6:23 AM
    #44
    YotaBro

    YotaBro This forum will make me broke

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    Lots of shenanigans.
  15. Jan 6, 2021 at 6:32 AM
    #45
    YotaBro

    YotaBro This forum will make me broke

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    Lots of shenanigans.
  16. Jan 6, 2021 at 6:41 AM
    #46
    ninjajay

    ninjajay Posting from the toilet

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    Y’all are probably olympic weightlifters (or dealer techs got overzealous with their impact guns)... I did oil changes on my wife’s old RAV4 with that same plastic housing for 10 years and it never had a problem.
     
  17. Jan 6, 2021 at 6:44 AM
    #47
    Kung

    Kung [Insert Custom Title Here]

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    From what I'm reading, it's not 'made' for the Tundra, but it works just fine.

    With this said, my gut feeling is that so long as proper torque ratings are followed and all that, it should be fine. For now I'll hold off on replacing it.
     
    YotaBro[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Jan 6, 2021 at 6:49 AM
    #48
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    (Almost All) Parts from Amazon that say "TOYOTA" on them are excellent. Some parts that say "TOYOTA" on them are outright fakes. All others that say "replacement", I wouldn't touch. The Chinese are now aware of the aluminum filter cap opportunity, and you can buy a half-dozen different Chinee brands.

    Your listed part says (blank), and the reviews are "iffy". Why consider non-OEM parts when you buy the real deal for less? Check by part number on ebay.

    Edit: Here's one. More you buy, the cheaper they get.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-To...using-Cap-Assembly-FAST-SHIPPING/383846080231
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2021
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    #48
    YotaBro[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Jan 6, 2021 at 7:01 AM
    #49
    Oey12

    Oey12 New Member

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    I have changed the oil in many Toyota plastic oil filter housing vehicles (wife’s two RAV4’s, my dad’s two RAV4’s , my wife’s current Highlander, my mother’s Highlander and my old 5th gen 4Runner). In my experience I found it doesn’t matter how little you tighten it. Not one of those filters EVER came off easily. That plastic simply sucks... And the little drain plug was even worse. I am OCD so I used a small torque wrench for everything...didn’t matter.

    I know dealerships can be terrible but in my opinion so can most of the services we get these days.

    I pull off my skid plates (4Runner and when it’s time for the Tundra) and bring it to the dealer. Sign up for The Toyota Owners Page and you get silly coupons for oil changes. The one dealership I use only uses Mobil 1 (the write it on the service slips-I know they can lie) and I never paid more than 55 bucks (4Runner 6.5 quarts)...it’s simply not worth doing it myself. And a lot of it stems from that damn oil filter. Additionally I don’t have to buy a damn thing from Amazon! Would rather not go down that rabbit hole-don’t wanna get banned.

    I miss my 4.0 Tacoma 30 minutes flat and super clean.
     
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  20. Jan 6, 2021 at 7:03 AM
    #50
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Part number 15620-31060 is not "made for" or shown as compatible with Tundra because the center support tube has to be exchanged for the longer Tundra version to support the longer filter. Otherwise, the aluminum part looks identical to the plastic filter cap, and has been used by probably hundreds of Tundra owners will no ill effects.
     
  21. Jan 9, 2021 at 2:22 PM
    #51
    Djone27

    Djone27 New Member

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    I remembered reading thru this thread recently and searched it out today. Went to do my first oil change after installing my RCI skid. The door makes it a hell of a lot easier (just need an 8 or 10 inch extension). I could not remove the plug on the filter housing. Used an impact driver to try and break it when my ratchet wouldn't cut it. Ended up unscrewing the housing instead of the plug. Thankfully I didnt make a huge mess. Since I already swapped to the metal housing I was able to put it in a vise and break the plug free with a breaker bar.

    Pretty sure the asshat that changed my oil last time tightened the filter housing using the plug instead of a filter wrench.
     
  22. Jan 9, 2021 at 2:33 PM
    #52
    Tundra_361

    Tundra_361 New Member

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    Heard stories of the tabs breaking off before. Mine has not broke yet but I was changing my wife’s 4Runner couple of months ago and the same thing happened. It was only a small piece so I thought it was ok but when I started it up it started spraying everywhere :rofl:so I Bought the oem aluminum off Amazon.
     
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