Let's See Your Caps

Thank you! I’m shopping all brands but I’ve only had leer in the past so will likely go that way again. Helpful to see what I can get them for cause in my experience every dealer sets their prices.

 

yah I had to check my quote again, I not blaming the egg-nog, but something's in it that made me mis-read

I did some searching before deciding on Leer. Ultimately I liked now Leer looks the best, especially their windoor design with the horizontal split.

I replaced my softtopper which just became too much of a pain to upkeep. Snaps come loose, the buckles crack and break, and the rear door can pop off on the freeway and now I have racks on top ... woot!

 

This was exactly what I did back in september. Looks great. Love mine as well!

 

Nice! I ordered a century ultra sport with windoors toward the end of October. Waiting for the call from the dealer still. So excited.

 

I would love to see what kind of bars or racks anyone has gone with on their topper. The prinsu top rack looks appealing. Thanks

 

prinsu does look really nice. I was thinking I could put a prinsu on the topper and relocate the thule bars to the roof with these https://www.thule.com/en-us/roof-rack/fit-kits/kit-145182-_-145182

 

I’m wondering about matching height with rack on the cab and rack on the cap. I get a little ocd with those sort of things . There’s a cab rack called the spyder no drill rack for tundra cabs that looks super great and would match up nice with a prinsu top rack on the cap

 

I'd want them to match height too.

 

The puppers approve!

 

I've been close a couple times with swapping out the Thule bars for the Prinsu Top Rack.

First problem is the parking garages at the ski resorts. Clearance is low in the older buildings, so I have to be able to take the Thule bars off at the door. The other issue is I saw what the Top Rack looks like on someone's truck here, and I prefer the look of the square Thule bars. It's cool, though.

https://prinsudesignstudio.com/product/tt2-toprack-5-5-bed/

 

I was looking at a few pics online of the top rack and it doesnt seem like it sits as low as their regular cab rack does. Still looks more low profile than a Rhino Rack pioneer platform. Excellent point on the ability to quick detach bars from the cap. All these decisions have my head spinning lol.

 

I learned the hard way. Three days after getting my Leer, we went to the mountains for a long ski weekend. Pulling into the parking garage I tore off a Thule bar and damaged the track system. Fiberglass was OK.

Now, if it's close, I can jump out of the truck, pop them off, and put them in the bed. I had the bars off for a while with those Thule cap things on, but the truck looks much cooler with them on.

 

With a new bed camper build I needed to really go hard to try and keep the wood dry. I know others have discussed truck bed sealing/waterproofing in here so here's my method and progress so far.

Cap to truck ESI ultra seal, its their thicker one for heavy caps. Mines not over the weight for it but I clamp it down TIGHT for fear of it shifting offroad and rubbing paint. It did not require an extra bulkhead filler seal even though the bulkhead is plastic bed rail thickness lower.

$35 ESI Ultra Cap Seal 1 1/2" Width x 5/8" Height 20' Length, EPDM Rubber for Caps over 200 lbs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCCDXJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_YYm1FbNAWBTG4

Tailgate seal from same company (Lund repackaged the ESI). Came with great instructions on some website of the different pieces and twist to get it sealed up nice. This mostly keeps the dust out.

$43 Lund 30002 Genesis Tailgate Seal

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COL4A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_s1m1Fb1EB3Z09

As mentioned earlier in this thread I used a clear silicone product to saturate the carpet liner all around the tailgate corners so they wouldn't act as a water sink. Its a little ugly but I can confirm it works! Any water seeped in will shed down instead of soaking into the carpet! I also used silicone in the front bed corners where there are huge gaps. All around the bed rail fasteners. And put rubber plugs in a couple small bedside factory holes. The bulkhead plastic factory plugs need to come out to get sealed, they've been silicone on the face holes but their outer edge seeps and fills the front of the bed to floor joint (which is left open intentionally to drain).





The tailgate corners at the cap have been the most challenging. I put an extra small D-seal on the cap and really adjusted the rear window latches tight. Then riveted a flap of EPDM (pond liner) to the bottom trouble spots similar to factory except mine was missing. I put a small D-seal behind the flap to make it always angle outward. These are the results after a 10hr soaking rain when usually it would be damp from tailgate to bulkhead with my truck facing downhill in the driveway like this.

 

Ordered a Leer 100xr for my 18 DC today. Was given a 4-6 week turnaround for delivery to Southern California

 

Ordered my ARE CX HD cap early Novemeber, installed last week. All good so far. Looks great.

Not only does it have the HD system and bars to allow for 500lbs. weight on cap, also did custom 48" Track with Yakima feet in between the HD load bars for added accessories, doing a one off build!

 

ARE CX HD with an ikamper.

I feel like somethings missing?
Maybe a rack over the cab...

prinsu? Front runner?

what do you guys think?

 

Looks sharp! Well done!

 

Looks good to me the way it is but I like a clean, simple look.

 

I like clean and simple too.

I also don't want to drill into my roof.

 

Looks good to me.

 

X2

 

Personally, I think the lines of the Tundra look a little better if there is a rack on most cab high canopies. Especially with the crew max. But that is totally personal preference.

 

That looks sharp!! I would leave as is, the thought of drilling into roof doesn't appeal to me. But hey, it is your truck, whatever makes you happy.

 

No regrets switching over from a softtopper, love the Leer more and more every day.

 

Look up Spider no drill roof rack. It aint cheap though.

 

So I found a used Leer 100R about two hours away from me for $1195. It's literally the only cap, Leer or otherwise, that I've found for a CM in silver. But I'm not sure how I feel about it not having a single handle for the rear glass. I've looked at ordering an ARE CX but with 8-12 week waits right now, I'm worried it won't get to me before I move to Texas in March. What are your guys thoughts? Keep looking for a used one?

 

On the handle, it definitely depends on how often you're using it. I had folks recommend a single handle to me but I went with a cap with two handles because it was $500 cheaper. So far it hasn't really bothered me but I pretty much only use the bed when I'm at my lake lot, in which case I don't lock it anyway.

 

If you will be in and out of the back often the single handle is a great feature!
It is hard to understand maybe until you have used them too.

I went crazy until I got rid of the tailgate as well as I have had french door on a top for so long that I had forgotten what a chore it is to turn both latches on the window and the tailgate every time I need anything from the bed.

In fact now that I dont even have windoors and the 2 latches on each of those I almost can not picture going back to a top that adds to the 3 latches that I use now?

YMMV obviously but it is worth the money to me.

 

Obviously there are a lot of variables in picking a cap and what type entry. If you are looking at the handles from a security standpoint it doesn't really matter, a thief will manage to get in regardless. Looks and ease of use just one handle will make you happy. I personally found one used with two t-lock handles and sacrificed some other things (windoors) I wanted but have zero regrets. I used money saved on other mods that I wanted such as a used decked system which secures all my valuables.

It is slim pickings on used ones out there, maybe seller will negotiate with you for a lower price.

 

What top and rail system is that please?