My Project 2012 5.7 Tundra engine swap to a 4.6 engine sourced from '13 Tundra

Yesterday, I brought home my 2012 tundra(vin config below). The previous owner drove the car 350k and says the engine is shot. I will do a compresson test later today.

a few years ago I bought a 2013 Tundra from the police action it was mising everything that could be easily removed, so obviously the engine was in tact. It had been sitting in the woods for atleast a few years which tells me the engine was likely good and hardly driven.

after buying a set of wheels for it I brought it home and I removed the engine, trans, driveshaft, front suspension ,rack, steering wheel and coulum, pedal, ecu and sold the fenders.
I removed the engine trans by lifting the cab. That said I know what it takes to remove the behemoth.

I have experience swapping bmw engines and everying it takes to slap a modern engine in a older early 90s vehicle.
I don't think it will take as much tech work since the chassis was used with both engines. The manual labor factor is a harsh reality.

I am plaining on installing the 4.6 with its transmission in this 5.7 the same way I removed the 4.6 out of the donor car, by removing the cabin with my trusty lift.

trying to install engine with harness and trans together in one shot.

I know its best to put the same engine it came with, and I might have to get it bar certified If the smog tech looks closely under the hood or the numbers are too low. I am estimating this project costing me no more than 5k considering I bought the accident free, one owner, currently registered, truck for $3500.00

I have been waiting for an unfortunate owner nearby to blow an engine for yearsnow, so I can buy it. I have the drive to install my low milage engine knowing it will last.

Kinda soon for this question but, Will installing the 4.6 steering coulum take care of the ews issue?

 

Looking forward to following your project!

 

I'm looking forward to posting it on tundras.com it dosent look like anyones posted on this swap.
Hopefully I get some positive responses before I go knee deep removing the cab.
There were people lined up trying to buy this truck, if the wiring is going to be a major factor ill just sell the damn thing and wait for a 4.6 to come around.

 

Looking forward to this too... I'm swapping my own project not Tundra related...

 

Well, I hooked up my scan tool to the obd2 connector and it gave me code P1604 STARTING MALFUNCTION I looked it up and it says it could be low on fuel, the fuel gauge was on the last line. I filled 2 gallons but that will likely only fill the bottom so I am about to go fill my 6 gallon tank and fill somemore.
battery has 12.46 volts so I decided not to charge it more than that without me supervising the charger.
engine spins and starter is functioning.
I read that this is a problem code that leaves the car/truck without a diagnosis, is this true?

 

Oh ya one of the keys is missing a battery, I am also going to purchase one as I make the fuel run.

 

You may need to re sync the key to the ecu for the immobilizer system.

 

For some reason the steering wheel on my truck is chewed to the metal. Luckily I have the same steering coulmn from my doner car bummer is, I have no key for it.
Can I drill out and replace the key tumbler with the tumbler with a key. Do the ecu, immobilizer and key operate as one. Will I have to flash the ecu?

 

The only thing changing the battery to the fob did is let me know that the unlock button is broken.

 

OK so after tinkering with the obd2 reader I found the following 18 codes


1 p1604 startibility malfunction
2 p1604 startibility malfunction
3 p0300 Random misfire detected
4 p0011 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Advanced (Bank 1)
5 p0012 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Retarded(Bank 1)
6 P0014 exhaust camshaft position timing-- over--Advanced(Bank 1)
7 p0015 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Retarded(Bank 1)
8 p0016 crankshaft position-- camshaft position correlation--Bank1 sensor A
9 P0017 crankshaft position-- camshaft position correlation--Bank1 sensor B
10 P0018 crankshaft position-- camshaft position correlation--Bank2 sensor A
11 P0018 crankshaft position-- camshaft position correlation--Bank2 sensor B
12 p0021 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Advanced (Bank 2)
13 p0022 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Retarded(Bank 2)
14 P0024 exhaust camshaft position timing-- over--Advanced(Bank 2)
15 p0025 exhaust camshaft position timing-- over--retarded(Bank 2)
16 P0031 Ho2s heater control circuit low (Bank 1) sensor 2
17 P0032 Ho2s heater control circuit low (Bank 1) sensor 1
18 P0051 Ho2s heater control circuit low (Bank 2) sensor 1

I am assuming the timing is off maybe a failed timing chain.

 

you can switch your ignition switch assembly from your current column to the donor column. But yes the key needs to match up to the immobilizer and ecu

 

Perfect I will have to disconnect steering wheel anyway to lift cab.

 

Lifted the cabin off of the frame today (post pics tomorrow).

looked like the valve cover cooked off towards the fire wall.

preparing the 4.6 engine, not sure if I want to change gaskets since there is no sign of leaks. I am going to drain fluids tomorrow, im hoping not too much water entered from the intake manifold.

Disconnecting all the wires took a little while, disconnecting ebrake was easy,brake lines easy, shifter linkage easy, fuel lines,removed bumper need a new one mine is dented. disconected a/c for some dumb reason. measered the distances betwen cab and bed and fenders, unbolted the 6 bolts,removed the radiator, and up she went exposing the engine.

so far so good.

please pm me if you have a bumper please.

 

Heres after dropping the 4.6 in and connecting the 4.6 drive shaft

 

Chances are the 5.7 ecu will run the 4.6. They are the same block. It’s been proven with other Toyota’s that things like a 2.5 ecu running 2.7 engines is possible.
Being the years are so close everything should be mostly plug and play too.

 

WOW!

 

Now here are some issues that I have run into I will start big to small.

1 The transmission mounting bracket is not sitting flush with the transmission. The piece going across the frame looks like it has bolts on it.

will the 5.7 transmission fit on the 4.6? I don't want to use a tranny that has 325k miles on it unless I have no other choice.
I measured the motor mount brackets and they sit the same way.

tranny was the same length, the engine is likely

Thats what I think aswell since they have the same firing order

 

How do you explain the transmission cross member i just checked the diagram and they are both the same pn 51204

 

theres also this. the power steering hose has different tabs 5.7 top 4.6 bottom. this is a no brainer but want to document findings for future forum members.

 

Was the 5.7 a 4x4? The transmission should be the same trans

 

You are correct. The crossmember that supports the transmission tail shaft is different between 5.7L and 4.6L, but is bolted on each side and can therefore be changed. Since the 4.6L transmission mounting point is slightly closer to the engine, the 4.6L crossmember has a forward extension the supports the transmission mount. All you need is to find a donor cross member from a 4.6L. See pic below:

 

Actually the transmissions are different. The 5.7L transmission was an AB60, which is designed to handle the additional torque of the 5.7L. The 4.6L transmission is a A760E (2WD).

 

well i stand corrected. we dont see a whole lot of 4.6L tundras come in. i forgot the 760e even existed outside of lexus

 

I might be putting the pieces of the mount together the wrong way

 

its a 2x4

 

kicking myself in the head for giving away my bare frame to the recycling amigo

 

Now here are some issues that I have run into I will start big to small.

1 The transmission mounting bracket is not sitting flush with the transmission. The piece going across the frame looks like it has bolts on it.

ISSUE SOLVED; I NEED AN 4.6 CROSSMEMBER

After calling a bunch of Toyota dismantlers in LOS Angeles Searching, eBay with zero results. I called the dealerships, price was 300.
Googled the a place in rancho Cordova, they were asking 100 for the part and 25 for shipping

 

Can’t find the male connectors that plug in to theses two pairs of connectors.

 

does anyone know where these connectors go?

 

Quick picture I found online