Multiple Codes, too many to narrow it down

2010 Tundra Double Cab 5.7 Flex Fuel. 122,000 miles.

The typical Toyota tick got a little more pronounced so I threw the code reader on it. I got so many codes that I just can't narrow it down.

Anyone seen anything like the list below. I'm hoping there is one root cause that is contributing to the other codes.

P0300 Random misfire detected

P0011 Intake camshaft position timing - over-advanced (bank 1)

P0012 Intake camshaft position timing - over-retarded (bank 1)

P0014 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over-advanced (bank 1)

P0015 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over-retarded (bank 1)

P0021 Intake camshaft position timing - over-advanced (bank 2)

P0022 Intake camshaft position timing - over-retardeded (bank 2)

P0024 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over-advanced (bank 2)

P0025 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over-retardeded (bank 2)

P0101 Mass or volume air flow circuit range/performance

P0102 Mass or volume air flow circuit low input

P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input

P0116 Engine coolant temperature circuit range/performance

P011B Engine coolant temperature/intake air temperature correlatuion

P0125 Insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control

P0128 Coolant thermostat (coolant temp below thermostat regulating temperature)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Check the oil level right away, and check that you have engine oil pressure.

Load test the battery, and make sure the terminals are cleaned bright and are tight.

Somewhere after that I’d clear that list of codes, drive it, and see what codes come active first.

 

Since the I found the codes, I've changed the oil early to check for any debris in oil or filter. It was all clean. I went ahead and changed the spark plugs since I wanted to check them all for fouling, burnt electrodes, etc.. The spark plugs all looked ok.

After doing the oil change and the spark plugs, the codes are still there. I have started clearing the codes starting with P0300 misfire but it comes back immediately. Pretty frustrating that it doesn't show P0301 - P0308 to help narrow down a particular cylinder and/or cylinders.

 

Is P0300 the only code coming back, or just the only one you’ve tried clearing so far?

 

It's the only one I've cleared. As soon as I clear it and navigate back in to clear the next code, P0300 is already back.

 

What are you using to check/clear codes? Are you able to see parameters?

 

I have an Innova 3160d. I can read the parameters but I'm not familiar with them.

 

Are you clearing with the engine running? If so, try with key on, engine off. And like @Windsor said, being able to monitor live data is likely going to be necessary here.

 

I work for Toyota but I'm Maintenance in a manufacturing plant. I have access to the complete TIS system but unfortunately no access to Tech Stream.

 

Yep, I'll have to try resetting the codes that way and see what comes back first. If you don't mind, keep watching this post and I'll get back with updates as I'm away from the vehicle for the weekend.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

No problem. You can always tag me or other members in your posts by putting the @ symbol in front of the username with no space.

I’ll be honest, I’m better at reading and interpreting live data on commercial diesel engines, but I’ll help where I can.

We have a “Ask the Toyota Tech” thread on here too, but I’m not sure how active it is lately.

 

A few things.
Clear all codes.
Check your cables. A bad ground will cause all sorts of weird stuff.
Check battery voltage with engine off key off.
Check again with it running.
Check parameters for coolant temp sensor. Bad sensor can cause issues with other sensors/systems that require engine temp to know what to do.

 

I tried resetting the codes with the ignition on but engine not running. The scanner told me it successfully erased all DTCs. It then proceeded to show me all the same DTCs again. I tried this several times with the engine running and without the engine running.

 

I didn't see anyone else say this but check your radiator fluid level. Is your expansion tank empty? Those last 4 codes are basically saying you are low on coolant. It should be one of the first things you fix as it will lead to bad things if you don't. Secondly the computer uses the coolant temp to determine how to adjust the timing and fuel/ air ratio.

 

Low on coolant would cause high temps. Coolant temp too low for closed loop is likely a bad thermostat, stuck open. The maf codes could be a bad or dirty sensor. Both parts should be testable. I'd start with the thermostat.

 

Of all those codes, the ones MOST CONCERNING to me is the camshaft timing codes. Those, combined with an increase in the "typical Toyota tick", may indicate a cluster**** in progress. I would drive it to the dealer immediately and hope for the best. Maybe it'll be something minor...better safe than sorry.

 

Actually low coolant will not always give you a high temperature indication. What happens is the temp sensor will no longer be submerged in coolant so it'll read like the engine is cold. However other indicators will tell the ECU that the engine is hot. The computer picks up on the disagreement and gives off codes. It takes seconds to check the coolant level. If too low bad things like warping the heads can happen.

 

The coolant level is fine and there is some in the overflow reservoir.

When up to temp, I show coolant temp mid range, oil temp mid range, oil pressure mid range.

 

All the codes coming back with the engine off makes me think that either the code reader isn’t working right or the ECM is fubar. Don’t rush out and replace it based on this though.

Am I right to assume that the check engine light is on all the time?

 

The check engine light has only come on once. When it came on, it wash flashing constantly. The truck had a great reduction in power. I pulled over, turned the engine off and when I started it again, the check engine light was off and engine power was restored.

 

Sounds like a bad thermostat for sure and as for the others that dont clear i would clear the codes with scan tool, then disconnect the battery while your changing the bad thermostat and then reconnect battery after disconnected for a least a hr and let all the modules reboot and see what returns then.

 

I’ve never had a code reader erase the code and then have it come back up before at least starting the engine. Usually I have to drive a little bit for the code to come back. I think there’s something wrong with your scanner too.

 

I haven't done anything with the thermostat as I couldn't find one locally.

I did pull all four of the oil control valves that operate the variable valve timing. Each one was clean. Each one measured 8 ohms on the coil. Each one actuated when 12vdc was applied to the coil. I think that pretty well proves the oil control valves are good. It doesn't prove that they are being sent the voltage to operate when the truck is running. Really couldn't find a good test point for that and even if I could, I'm not sure how I could force the ECM to trigger them on/off.

 

Well... I just don't understand it. Saturday night I took it to the Toyota dealer and dropped it off. I live about 40 minutes from the dealership and stopped and filled it up then drove some interstate miles. It actually sounded and responded better along the way.

The dealership checked it out Tuesday and said they could not get it to set any codes. They said they drove it listened to it and could not manage to get to go into limp mode or trigger a single code. Guess I'll go see them Wednesday morning but I'm taking my spare set of keys and trying it out for myself before I talk with them.

Wonder if I just got a bad tank of gas and that was the whole problem. I'll know more when I pick it up I suppose. Bad gas, intermittent sensor/connector. Something dying but just not fully dead.

 

Have you checked your alternator?

I know it sounds odd, but I had a failing alternator on different vehicle (it was putting out 20+ volts!) once that threw dozens of codes and lit up every light on the dash. All your sensors use a reference voltage and then some component that changes that voltage in response to readings. If that reference voltage is FUBAR it will cause sensors to tell the ECU all kinds of strange things.

 

I have the first 9 codes, I'm yet to read the responses you received.
I have a 2013 5.7 tundra

1 p1604 startibility malfunction
2 p1604 startibility malfunction
3 p0300 Random misfire detected
4 p0011 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Advanced (Bank 1)
5 p0012 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Retarded(Bank 1)
6 P0014 exhaust camshaft position timing-- over--Advanced(Bank 1)
7 p0015 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Retarded(Bank 1)
8 p0016 crankshaft position-- camshaft position correlation--Bank1 sensor A
9 P0017 crankshaft position-- camshaft position correlation--Bank1 sensor B
10 P0018 crankshaft position-- camshaft position correlation--Bank2 sensor A
11 P0018 crankshaft position-- camshaft position correlation--Bank2 sensor B
12 p0021 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Advanced (Bank 2)
13 p0022 Intake camshaft position timing-- over--Retarded(Bank 2)
14 P0024 exhaust camshaft position timing-- over--Advanced(Bank 2)
15 p0025 exhaust camshaft position timing-- over--retarded(Bank 2)
16 P0031 Ho2s heater control circuit low (Bank 1) sensor 2
17 P0032 Ho2s heater control circuit low (Bank 1) sensor 1
18 P0051 Ho2s heater control circuit low (Bank 2) sensor 1

 

I think @13tundradude wants to know what @WildFan ended up figuring out? A lot of similarities in the codes.

 

Maybe a loose ground?? or was anything disconnected while the battery was still plugged in?? I got some of these codes when I pulled the MAF with the battery connected.. trying to figure out why my truck wouldn't start... My first suggestion would be to check and make sure all plugs are pushed in all the way...

 

May have been bad gas or maybe the fuel cap was not on correctly and triggered the issues? Or maybe a bad fuel cap? Seeing that is ran better after a fuel up.

 

after starting the car like hell I noticed water flowing from the muffler.
I have a blown head gasket.