short block replacement @ 2200 miles

Just got bad news from dealer my truck needs a short block
Assembly, bummer 2200 miles on it, got it in yesterday figured it
Was dreaded cam tower leak since it had same bell housing drip
, no a dam oil pipe on back of block
Drivers side below head , that Toyota use some kind of press fit rivet to hold
Pipe to block leaking from there , on the other end it’s bolted on, non serviceable part ,
Anyone had this problem where dealer was able to fix , instead of major repair
Couple pics pipe is at 11 o’clock

 

I haven't heard of this problem yet. Sucks thats its non serviceable. Can you circle that oil pipe and where its leaking? I believe I know which one you're talking about but just wanted to be 100% sure.

 

If the service techs are talking about the Oil Drain Pipe Sub-assembly (Diagram label), you can't see it in that photo. The oil drain pipe sub-assembly is under the rear seal retaining plate, which is under the flex plate as shown in the photo. (See below.)

I can see the drain pipe being a non-critical simple push-in fit because it's behind the rear seal retaining plate; it's intended to keep a river of oil directed toward the oil pan. If it leaks a little at the push-in fit, it's not a big deal, the oil leaked simply runs down the back of the engine,

Sounds like a BS reason to change a short block to me, and I can't imagine Toyota approving the exchange, or even designing anything that would require that, press fit or not. @Ruggybuggy

 

No it’s not what your description is, it’s right above flywheel driver side head 11 clock, see in schematic parts picture .
Can’t draw circle around it from my pad ,was @ dealer this am to pick up loaner , my new engine was
In but couldn’t get a picture of it was still crated , engine hasn’t been taken out yet , friend of mine is parts manager there will call me when engine comes out so I can look at , will post pictures , surely there’s been others with issue , hell who knows there could be some techs at Toyo or independent shops
That have repaired without replacement

 

Then I guess the only other possibility is the pipe between the arrows (below). Which of the arrows is pointing to the "press fit rivet"? The green arrow is pointing at what appears to be a small flange head bolt (8mm?).

Is that your actual engine? What are those gold markings all over the back mean? Did the techs apply them, are were they already there?

 

I am also intrigued by this..

 

Sorry should stated not my engine this one is just for reference , your
Yellow arrow pointed to to correct end, hard to get good visual of it
Laying on your back, looks like press in rivet , slightly dripping out of fitting
I suspect when pressed in it cut the o ring . costly design , close to 10k repair

 

so, are you paying anything for it?

 

No all warranty

 

gotcha. that sucks, but at least it's "free"

try and haggle for a bed lining or something

 

If this wasn't a warranty fix I think I'd try tapping and adding fastener customized to fit. Or just JB Weld.
I hate engineering like this, if the casting isn't broken then it shouldn't be a non-serviceable part.

 

Got my tundra back today , short block replaced, looks like a jam up job , runs great
Time will tell .... picture of pipe fitting on a blown 5.7 engine in the shop, tech said was seeping out were it’s pressed in looks to be tight tolerance
Not mine , my old engine was in the shipping cart it came in couldn’t get a picture of it ,
Expensive warranty claim 10,770$