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Installing sub to non jbl system

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by KnoxHog22, Nov 8, 2020.

  1. Nov 8, 2020 at 4:13 PM
    #1
    KnoxHog22

    KnoxHog22 [OP] New Member

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    I am a newb at audio and am trying to learn. I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a 4 gauge amp install kit to hook up a friends spare sub and amp to test what setup I want to get. I have a 17 non jbl system with the factory head unit. Do I still need to order the entune harness like the one offered by Tech12volts and if so do I need to plan on getting a LOC if I’m not planning on upgrading speakers right now?
     
  2. Nov 8, 2020 at 4:21 PM
    #2
    APalmTree

    APalmTree 4x4 SKEPTIC

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    1 or 2... I lost count
    nopsFU likes this.
  3. Nov 8, 2020 at 4:37 PM
    #3
    KnoxHog22

    KnoxHog22 [OP] New Member

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    Gotcha so it looks like the harness will be needed since that will integrate the amp into the truck’s system as well as provide the on/off signal to the amp.
     
  4. Nov 8, 2020 at 4:42 PM
    #4
    APalmTree

    APalmTree 4x4 SKEPTIC

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    Exactly. You can do it without the harness and grab acc power from another source and pull speaker inputs from the door speakers but the harness makes it way easier and I was lazy.
     
    KnoxHog22[OP] likes this.
  5. Nov 8, 2020 at 6:31 PM
    #5
    jaflynn738

    jaflynn738 New Member

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    To save you time, I would defiantly buy it from him. It saves you from having to research the wires and etc. Just hook it up and you're ready to hook up to new amp once you get a power wire and ground for it.
     
  6. Nov 9, 2020 at 5:31 AM
    #6
    KnoxHog22

    KnoxHog22 [OP] New Member

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    That sounds easy enough! As for the LOC, is it only needed if the amp does not have speaker level inputs? Or should I add a 2 channel one as well. It looks like the harness APalmtree provided had one.
     
  7. Nov 9, 2020 at 8:54 AM
    #7
    APalmTree

    APalmTree 4x4 SKEPTIC

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    From the limited research I have done, the only thing that the LOC would provide you is a way to control the speaker crossover if you rewired the door speakers into it. The harness I linked is just spliced into the speaker outputs of the head unit as far as I can tell and it works just fine as the "low level" input for my amp.
     
  8. Nov 9, 2020 at 9:02 AM
    #8
    purplenova

    purplenova Not a new member

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  9. Nov 9, 2020 at 3:33 PM
    #9
    KnoxHog22

    KnoxHog22 [OP] New Member

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    Alright I’m going to try and hook everything up this weekend. Then it’ll just be me trying to figure out if I want 10s or 12s.
     
  10. Nov 9, 2020 at 3:34 PM
    #10
    KnoxHog22

    KnoxHog22 [OP] New Member

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  11. Dec 13, 2020 at 5:55 PM
    #11
    FirstTruck

    FirstTruck New Member

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    Im a little confused on this one. So OP is trying to hook up a subwoofer to the original radio signal, correct? Don't forget that the oem amp is designed to roll off the low frequencies signal as you pump up the volume. He needs a line output converter, something like s LC 2i to correct the factory roll off. Also he will need a filter to cut the low frequencies going to the factory door speakers and an amp to drive the new subs.
     
  12. Dec 13, 2020 at 8:32 PM
    #12
    FelipeAZ

    FelipeAZ New Member

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    Hello. I actually just did this yesterday! I removed the underseat storage from my 2016 DC rear seat and installed a gently used JL Audio CP108LG-W3V3 under there, with a Kicker CXA400.1 right next to it.

    I used the "add an amp harness" referenced by APalmTree. I connected it to the 10-pin connector below the passenger seat, at the factory amplifier. It was super easy and gave me RCA outputs for my amp and a remote turn on wire. I also bought a 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit, both from Amazon.

    Honestly, the hardest part was finally getting the 4awg power cable through the firewall. I used a 40 amp in-line circuit breaker instead of the fuse that came with the kit. I think an 8 Gauge kit would have been sufficient, but i went overkill.

    I still need to clean up my wiring, but everything is working just as it should. That little 8" JL Audio sub easily exceeds my expectations!

    Here's a list of what I used:
    Line Out Connector with Remote Turn-On

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CQUL240/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_3JU1FbR1MNX3D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    4 Gauge Amp Kit

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WTTV19N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_-KU1Fb2DYA67D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    40 Amp Circuit Breaker

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FF8TDSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_dMU1FbB71GKMV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    JL Audio Cp108lg-w3v3 8" Loaded Enclosure

    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693133/JL-Audio-CP108LG-W3v3.html

    Kicker CXA400.1 Mono Amplifier

    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CX41T/Kicker-46CXA400-1T.html

    I'll clean up my wiring and get some pics of the install.

    Felipe
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2020
  13. Dec 14, 2020 at 5:59 AM
    #13
    KnoxHog22

    KnoxHog22 [OP] New Member

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    Thank you! I was wondering why a LOC was needed and the roll off correction explains it perfectly.
     
  14. Dec 14, 2020 at 6:00 AM
    #14
    KnoxHog22

    KnoxHog22 [OP] New Member

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    That sounds easy enough. How’d you end up getting through the firewall?
     
  15. Dec 14, 2020 at 7:25 AM
    #15
    FelipeAZ

    FelipeAZ New Member

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    At the driver's side door, pry up the door sill and then remove the kick panel under the dash...

    I was going to write it all up, but, honestly, a picture is worth a thousand words, and a good video is priceless. Here's the video I saw from ********* that really helped explain it for me:

    https://youtu.be/SdP_5tSm-uw

    It does look easier than it is, at least for me. It was tough cutting the rubber to fish the cable through, but silicone and a helper got it done!

    Hope this helps.

    Felipe
     
  16. Dec 14, 2020 at 11:47 AM
    #16
    KnoxHog22

    KnoxHog22 [OP] New Member

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    Thank you! That is very helpful.
     
  17. Aug 18, 2021 at 4:51 PM
    #17
    Shaff777

    Shaff777 Rocking the Tundra since 2010

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    Guys, I’m in need of some help. So am I understanding correctly that I can buy the Taco tunes harness, and connect it directly to my new amp/sub?
    I’m looking at a amp/sub combo from JL audio. do I literally need to plug in the harness to the factory amp, run it to the new sub/amp combo, run a power wire, and I’m good to go?
    I don’t have to mess with the stock HU at all
     
  18. Aug 18, 2021 at 5:01 PM
    #18
    JcGc

    JcGc New Member

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  19. Aug 18, 2021 at 6:33 PM
    #19
    FirstTruck

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    Well you can but you shouldn't. The right way to do it is to get the signal before going into the OEM amp and put it through an LC2i or similar. This way you can control the sound going into amp and the sub(s).
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2021
  20. Aug 18, 2021 at 6:41 PM
    #20
    Shaff777

    Shaff777 Rocking the Tundra since 2010

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    So, it looks like I can get the LC2i, with a harness from either Tech12 or *********. As long as I have both the harness and the LC2i, and can connect those into the new amp/ sub combo and be good to go?
     
  21. Aug 18, 2021 at 7:56 PM
    #21
    FirstTruck

    FirstTruck New Member

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    Shop around. You’d be surprise at the deals you can find. U can also go cheaper and just get a simple LOC with a harness. Doesn't have to be the LC2i. This LOC is listed above on post #12.
     
  22. Oct 16, 2022 at 1:55 PM
    #22
    ctGONZOles

    ctGONZOles New Member

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    Hey why did you choose to lower the fuse size to 40 amps? Thanks.
     
  23. Oct 16, 2022 at 3:36 PM
    #23
    FelipeAZ

    FelipeAZ New Member

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    I went this route and amperage on the circuit breaker because that's what the fuse rating is on the particular amplifier from Kicker.
     
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