What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Love that sandy soil. I hope the UPS man didn't put those there on your Vinca.
Sounds like the truck is moving in the right direction.

 

My plan as of now is the headers, out to a x pipe, into 2 QTP screamer mufflers then 2 tail pipes out the stock location. The screamers have the cutout built in so they’ll still exit the tailpipe. Won’t be cheap but it’ll sound good and can be made quiet with a switch!

 

A little trick for those when installing the Timing Belt when it comes time to install the new belt. Loosen the two (2) hydraulic tensioner bolts down such that the belt is allowed to slip on to the pass side cam easily. Once the belt slips on and you’ve confirmed the timing marks, you can now re-tighten the hydraulic tensioner bolts up to spec. Pull the tensioner pin and you are good to go.

This trick allows enough clearance looseness over the tensioner pulley to allow an install without warping/damaging new belt. I learned this from a big gurrl reviewer. Didn't quite understand until actual hands on install and the light bulb went off after struggling for 10 minutes. Have not seen or heard about this trick anywhere but from that reviewer.

 

All you had to do was ask me

 

I appreciate all your advice so far. Sometimes one doesn’t know what to ask until the heat of the moment and thats when I rely on the light bulb switch.

Speaking of advice, whats the best way to purge all the steering fluid out to complete a total system new fluid refill?

In regards to a new future steering rack to be done down the road (will be using brand new Toyota OEM per your prior advice), do you recco a new steering pump to be done at the same time? Thank you.

 

New pump doesn’t hurt, but it’s also not necessary. To purge the system I suck the res dry, pull the return line and use my vacuum sucker to pull fluid out the system. Cap the return on the res, full with fresh and keep vacuum flushing

 

What if you don’t have a vacuum?

 

I would think on a 3 year $20,000 reconditioning you could spring for a $10 transfer pump.

 

Thanks for thinking for me. To set the record straight, its about $8k and 2.5 years. I’d still like to learn if there is a way to do the PS Fluid without a pump. I think I remember a guy disconnecting a hose(s) and turning the steering wheels back and forth? Unsure if the truck was ON.

I’m also wondering if I disconnected the Accessory Belt (allowing me to slowly turn by hand the PS Pump Pulley) that may substitute the pump action? Truck in OFF position.

 

Doing a p/s fluid transfer with the engine running can get messy quick. A turkey baster is a relatively inexpensive way to get the old fluid out, but it would take a few times before all the old stuff is flushed out of the system.

 

Thats the way I did mine. I also had the engine running when turning the steering wheel back and forth but shut it off evrytime I went to refill the reservoir. https://youtu.be/ywRzmvWVMqw

 

This stuff is awesome for brakes lubing of caliper pins and contact points. Really dampens brake noise and vibrations. Works on all rubbers and metals. Cheap old sckool stuff that still works nicely. $7 tube.

 

Wonder if I could use this on the back of my motorcycle brake pads since they squeal when braking even though they are new pads/rotors

 

Sure could. I had a terrible squeal on my Tundras rear shoes when reversing which were devoid of any greasing at the contact points. When researching, I found this grease was the best at stopping squeals and preventing seizing in/on various brake parts. I also used this on my calipers pistons, the shims and between each shim, the pads pins, and lower contact wedge.

Super smooth action on the brakes. Very quite.

 

Replacement motorcycle pads often don't include the shims that came with the OEM pads. Any chance those shims are missing?

 

Thanks for the recco, I bought some from the local auto store... the guy grabbed the small ketchup packets from the counter. I said nope, gimme the 4 oz.

Layed down the Sil-Glyde at these contact points.


I also used some Rustoleum Rust Reformer, but it couldn't put up the good fight against the crust I have. Little bits of rust started showing through after a couple of days. Used POR 15 on the backside of the backing plate, and the outside of the brake drum. This stuff is the closest thing you can get to a powder coat in a can!

After getting the parts I needed for the parking brake cable, I finally got to re-assemble my entire rear brake setup.

Aiming for feather dusting points. Leaving the caliper rebuild for another day... when the pads actually need to be replaced.

 

Thats mucho work, but looks like it was needed. I bet your brakes feel better now. Not sure if your Star Adjuster Plug is still with you, but mine was missing from prior goofy mechanics. Ended up buying new ones after doing the rear brakes only to have goofy stealer not put it back in place (twice).


There are also some shoe depth plugs back there for little windows on keeping track of the shoe thickness. Those are critical especially in the environment your truck is subjected. Nice work. Looks like you have plenty of meat on those shoes, still.

 

I actually had all those plugs in place, appears that a $tealer may have performed the work, as the pads and drum appear to be OEM. Drum is barely worn, almost new if it weren't for the New England born crust. The goofy mechanic who worked on it before used anti-sieze compound everywhere there should be high temp grease. No wonder it didn't work well.

I needed to buy a pack of replacement springs and components, so I got one for about $10 from Big Gurrl. It even came with a full set of rubber plugs!

Lol, the truck has been on jackstands for the past two weekends. Definitely took many hours, but the payoff is much better braking, and a parking brake that works well.

Oh, shiny brake drums, too!

 

I've found (twice) that rusted out high pressure pipes do a very effective job of emptying the power steering fluid.
That said, the P/S pump is working A.O.K.

Might I suggest you review the condition of all your hoses & high pressure pipes before changing the fluid. Even on an island pipes get that funky white stuff that eats them up. If you have to replace any of the lines, I'd think a gravity dump could be your answer.
Toyota offers a kit to replace the lines & pipes, & the other pipe on top of the steering rack is available by itself.

 

I think I’ll use that technique @MS22 posted in that video above. All my pipes look fine. The rubber hoses look fairly good and will be replaced over time in a few years.

 

Took off bumper skin, and bumper to do some rust remediation.

Planning to mount a 7.6" BOSS snow plow.






Paying homage to @Tundra2's keyhole peek into the front frame with a flashlight



Ambient light

 

Yeah I knew they didn’t come with shims but the OE ones coming off didn’t have them either so I didn’t think anything of it. Still I hate pulling up to lights sounding like an 18 wheeler in need of earplugs

 

It aint broke if you don't look? LOL.
Wish they made a bluetooth pinhole camera on a flex stick so I could look up in mine w/o disassembly.

 

I need to remember to coat the inside of my frame with the Eastwood stuff... just never enough time to do it..

 

Just realized the earlier 1st Gens (at least my 02) doesn’t have a Power Steering Cooler like the later gens.

 

rust won't wait for you to get time. Tell the 200 it's going to have to wait.

 

There are a couple holes up front you can spy into if you remove your skid plate. Not a perfect view, but enough to know if you have problems.

 

Here ya go, Big Gurrl has a solution for everything

$37 DEPSTECH Wireless Endoscope, IP67 Waterproof WiFi Borescope Inspection 2.0 Megapixels HD Snake Camera for Android and iOS Smartphone, iPhone, iPad, Samsung -Black(11.5FT)

https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Wat...d=1&keywords=B01MYTHWK4&qid=1602461361&sr=8-1

See what you made me do!

I bought this one on a Lightning Deal. 5 megapixels on this one, over the 2MP above.

$40 Wireless Endoscope, DEPSTECH Upgrade 5.0MP HD Inspection Camera, Scope Camera with Light,16" Focal Distance,16.5FT Semi-Rigid Snake Waterproof Borescope,2200mAh Battery for iPhone & Android-Yellow

https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-DE...cope&qid=1602462291&smid=AACQAJ816SDFM&sr=8-4

 

I have that exact one. Works pretty good. The video quality is not the best but it gets the job done.

 

I installed my new LED license plate lights. Nice and bright. Now I need to restore my rear bumper cap. It's not a nice dark gray but rather an old faded gray color. I may pop it off and clean it and spray it black like I did the bed rails.