Diode Dynamics Stealth LED Light Bar

Anyone mount this LED light bar and hate the mounting brackets and fasteners as much as I do? The light bar is top notch...the mounting bracket and fasteners needs re-engineering.

You cannot adjust the light once mounted to the truck - it has to be removed. And, the M6-1.0x10mm socket head screws are not long enough - by the time the bracket, lock washer, and flat washer are added, approximately 4.1mm of the thread remains.

I've had to tap out both sides to straighten up the threads and ordered some 14mm socket head with a flange to increase the set on the screw (and hopefully be able to tighten it sufficiently from moving).

I finished the CS Designs switch bank for the console - it turned out pretty good.

 

Completely agree with you on the stupid mount. Put mine on about 7 months ago and guessed at the adjustment. Now, about 10K street and maybe 200 desert off road miles later, the bar is still fastened on tightly but has sagged to where it rests on the bottom of the enclosure. The light also vibrates quite a bit on washboard roads since the mount flexes a fair amount. Probably going to stick a couple short pieces of foam tape underneath the unit to "fix" this problem for now. Let us know if you come up with a more elegant solution. That said, it is pretty solid and I still crack a smile every time I flip it on cuz the LED is nice and bright. BTW, nice switch detail.

 

Where did you get the cup holder and shift trim?

 

AJT Designs

 

Do you have a contact for the CS Designs. switch bank?

 

X2
I just relented to having the light bar “rest” on the small elevated tabs that held the bumper grille.

 

I guess I should get it right (CN, not CS) - or @Rocfrog here on the forum!

 

Thanks!

 

Thanks! Unfortunately they don’t make them for second gen

 

Looking for a 52" led light bar to install above the front windshield. Can you redpond with your pros and cons? Thx

 

Pros: Looks Cool
Cons: Wind-Noise at highway speed | Off Road Use Only - must be covered at all time in some States.

 

Well, after a F-ton of issues with the DD42, I decided to purchase the Cali-Raised 32" Stealth bar. The brackets are superior to anything I've seen - two mount points to the truck, good hardware. Only downside is no install instructions...and their online videos leave out the most important install technique - how to remove the plastic piece from the bumper (without breaking the tabs or dropping the entire bumper). To remove the plastic piece, it takes finesse and patience - getting your hands in the area and using a ratcheting box end to remove the nuts. It took about 3 hours pull the trim pieces, install the light, and reinstall the trim...(the light harness was already ran from the DD42). Well hidden and looks good...will post pictures later.

 

Pictures of switch on/off (backlit, ran add-a-fuse tap to fuse box - no splicing or t-tapping wires (not a fan of cutting factory wire).
Pictures of Cali Raised 32" Stealth Bar installed and lit up.

 

Looks really good , i have the DD lights also, I ended up tapping one side cause i strip it, I definitely agree the brackets are not that great.

 

The use of Posi-taps offers a superb alternative to the “cutting of factory wires”. One small prick of a needle-like point is used to pierce/tap the wire. If a change of wire set-up is required later, the Posi-tap can be removed and the factory wire remains intact. In fact, many times, the insulation of the pierced wire “self-heals” and requires very little, nothing more than a wrap or two of electrical tape.

I have used them with great success. More so, I have an illumination circuit line that is tapped with them that I have extended, dedicated to feed all subsequently installed OEM factory style switches. I prefer the switches to all have dimming capability with the rest of the dash lights.

$13 Posi-Tap Red (10) Inline Wire Connectors 18-24, GA, AWG, Electrical Fastener, WIRE NOT INCLUDED

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Tap-Con...ild=1&keywords=posi-tap&qid=1598110802&sr=8-9

Cheers on the light bar, looks great!

 

Learn something every day...never heard of those...being an old school solderless connector "crimper," when I saw the add-a-fuse for the box, I thought "...wish I'd had those 30 years ago when in the floorboard installing radios, amps, and speakers." Good to know...thanks for the suggestion.

 

I hear you! I actually learned about them here on this site from a couple of early posts @NewImprovedRon had made suggestions to members about. I since had given them a try and have not looked back! I usually have about a dozen or more on hand in the various sizes just because they are so flexible/reversible for in-cab wiring projects.

Best!

 

@GREENwithENVY - what did you use to paint the CN Design switch plate?

 

I used all Rust-Oleum products - I used 180-220 grit to lightly sand the plastic printer build lines down. Be careful not to round edges or remove too much plastic. Moved to 400-800 grit and wet sanded the part. There will still be some build lines - that's okay.

Move to the plastic adhesion promoter to prep the part. Once dry, used the gray filler primer (this stuff has a lot of solids in it). I sanded a couple of times in between coats. Most, if not all, build lines will be gone and your piece will be smooth to touch. I started spraying the flat black (2X Ultra Cover Flat Spray) and wet sanded with 1000 grit until very smooth - 2 or 3 coats (until satisfied with the finish). Then used the flat clear (2X Ultra Cover) and made sure all the surface was a worthy of being a production part. Since the painted layers was so thick - I allowed the part to cure for a week in my garage (I've found all my painted parts in the Tundra cab hold up much better if allowed to cure).

You can find all these paints/sandpaper at Advance Auto Parts...probably Walmart too.

 

Thanks much!

 

@jaysbeaker

 

@GREENwithENVY

Many thanks...

 

I had the same sag before .... install heavy gauge zip ties and that lift it off the panel ...

 

So thinking about ordering the Cali-raised stealth LED light bar, I want to know if it is easy to adjust without rmving the front bumper such as the DD-42. Where did you also find the best instructions for removing the plastic piece from the bumper? Light looks awesome by the way! definitely on my list of mods.

 

Here's my opinion - once you snug the light up, I used a small bubble level to determine a very small (hair) downward angle and tightened it up. The brackets really almost set the light bar perfect, IMHO.

I didn't find the best instruction...but I followed Cali-Raised video (which conveniently leaves out the hardest damn part) and looked over a post of some dude who snapped all 6 plastic pegs off removing the black center bumper piece. Another person said you can get it off, if you take your time and are patient...I agree with him.

If don't have a creeper...go buy one...probably the best HF purchase I've made. Plus, pick up some ratcheting wrenches - I used the 10mm to loosen the aluminum nut caps from the plastic "thread," then used a regular 10mm socket to continue to remove by hand.

Step #1: Remove 3 plastic trim pins (use plastic panel tools)

Step #2: Remove the two 10mm bolts on each end

Step #3: Gently flex the bottom of the black plastic trim so you can reach your hand and arm in there...feel around and you will feel those aluminum nuts (3 on each side). Use your ratcheting wrench to loosen the nuts and remove by hand using a socket...repeat 5 more times.

The hardest part of the removal is braking the 14mm bolts on the top bumper bracket (if you've messed around with the DD42, you know what I mean).

I purchased the Harbor Freight creeper after I struggled with the DD42 to install the Cali-Raised...after rolling around for a few hours, I wondered what the hell is wrong with me that I'd not bought one of these before.

 

I just installed my 42” as well. Piss poor brackets/very nice light. That bracket could be properly made from something like 1/8 “ or 1/4” plate. Bumper studs seem long enough. Also, someone could have two mounting holes in them for each side if they do the math right and the light bar would be solid and also not have to guess how far in or out it will be. Mine is set to far in. I wanted to keep it rigid as possible. Didn’t help much. You can see a 1/2” gap then the tabs. Going to have to reposition at a later date. If anyone has come up with a good fix, I’m all ears. Merry Christmas All!!

 

I just received my DD42" light bar , looking at all the mounting issues , it will be best for me to just return it and wait till there is a better mounting solution.

 

im going to mess around with it and see what solutions I come up with....more to come.

 

Ok.....adapt and overcome. Maybe not the most ideal but will get the job done for sure. Light bar is now very secure. Adding the side bolts to the bumper will only make it nearly impossible to try and steal it. At least in a timely fashion.

 

I wish I saw this thread before I ordered mine. Supposed to be here in a couple days. Not sure if I’m going to keep it now or return it.