1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Lol, I thought they mis-spelled "OIL"

 

Silly, me. I was using PB Blast on the bleeder bolt on the brake proportioning valve eariy this morning. I blame it on not having my coffee yet.

After bleeding the valve, I was in a rush to test out the brakes and failed to clear all my tools, and this sucker was directly in the path of my rear wheel. Gonna have to salvage the remainder of the goodness inside to drench all the crusties on the truck. Surprisingly, the can didn't rupture, but there is a slow leak on the can somewhere.

 

What length screwdriver do you need to reach that guy? I don't have anything in my toolbox that reaches.... grrr.

 

Waiting for it...


Someone.

 

I see it! It's right around where the hole is at.

 

It can't be me. I already made a hole joke, a dick joke, and a reacharound joke in my last dozen posts.

 

I've got a big black screwdriver I use just for these occasions.

Also, get a bigger toolbox. It's like a fish tank. If you have a small tank than your fish can't grow to its potential size...

 

Seems like if you tighten that you will being the headlight housing UP, and loosen it brings the headlight housing down? Its been a little bit.

When I adjusted mine... I pulled the turn signal housings off, and used a 10 mm wrench to adjust the white plastic wheel.
Easy.

You guys are making it 5 times harder than it needs to be with that screwdriver method, and you're ruining the 10 mm wheel...

Edit: When I get home I'll take pictures of my old housings for visual aid.

 

Lol, my toolbox is plenty full, just don't have that 16" long Philips screwdriver

 

Boy... I sure walked into that one.

 

Ah the old headlight adjustment tool. Had to swing by Harbor Freight for the 24 inch long Phillips screwdriver that I now keep under my passenger seat as I too am a Mexican Jedi.

 

Too......many......innuendoes. Must.......resist.....

 

Well, I followed your suggestions, as I didn't want to burn $5 in gas to fetch a new screwdriver. Alas, it's an 8mm bolt.

I just used my fingers.

 

Honestly man, not really. I could see why you think that but I'm able to gently turn that wheel without hurting those plastic teeth. When I try to use a 10mm wrench it's a total pain. You must have jedi skills my friend.

 

@Professional Hand Model

Here's how the Katana LED bulb compares to stock incandescent. Thank you for the recco.

I just lowered the beam on the left, I'll need to adjust the right once the LED is installed there.

 

Clockwise aims it up.

 

Might be different on later models, and OEM lights. Double cab might be different too. I've never had an OEM set.
Always used cheap knockoffs because deer.

Its always been a 10 mm on all mine.

How did removing the turn signal housings work out for you?

My man, the 10 mm adjuster moves like butter for me, and always has on my cheap Chinese knock offs.

I don't know what to tell you other than spit on it.

 

Removing the turn signal housings did the trick. Thanks!

My lights are OEM, the spin wheels are metal. No way I can fit a socket back there. Ideal way is to use a Gearwrench box wrench, but I don’t have the 8mm. Used my fingers

 

Glad to help.

Interesting on the double cab design.

My vertical adjustment is on the black mounting bracket up near the top. Not near the bottom on the actual light housing? Unless your mounting brackets are white?

 

Ratcheting wrench is what I used

 

There’s a top and bottom adjusting bolt. The bottom is what I used for beam height adjustment

 

All my mounting tabs are that light gray color you see on the entire backing.

 

Lol

 

Rear purge/vent is about 80$ but I have a bolt that just keeps spinning so I can't easily get my canister out without a lot of extra effort a dremel and possibly doing more harm then good to replace it. It could be the canister. (200 used) The fuel tank (900) new, the fuel filler neck (160) because if some asshole drilled a hole in my gas tank who's to say he didn't jam some tubing down the neck a fuck it up. Or the fuel tank pressure sensor which was around 300. I don't know which came first (chicken or the egg) the codes or the fuel tank swap because it was not driveable with a broken ball joint at the time. I'm optimistically hoping there's gonna be some random old hose with a crack I can't see or an improperly connector line from the tank install. So here's to hoping my first experience at a mechanic ever in my life goes smooth. 99$ for the smoke test seemed smarter than trying to replace each of those parts.

 

Here's why girls don't trust mechanics. And for the record I was really sweet in dealing with him, tipped well and was really grateful when he pressed in my upper ball joint that I didn't have all the right tools for. As soon as he left I found the drilled hole in the tank...never once accused him, asked for his help in finding a used tank to avoid paying 900 for a new one. Paid well and tipped well again. But after this exchange I because suspicions. I mean I stuck a pencil thru the hole and he responded we don't know if there's a hole. This is also why I have becomes so determined to fix this without his help. Really gonna suck if the tank he sold me is shit.

 

Sorry to hear of this. For what it's worth, all of us have to deal with shady shop operators. That's why the majority of us are here on the forums, sharing tips and wisdom on how to repair our trucks without having to deal with the expensive shops and shoddy work.

If this is something you want to tackle on your own, you can rest easy in that you can get a used replacement tank on the cheap:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-TOYOTA-TUNDRA-FUEL-GAS-TANK/183582776443

Probably easier to find a more local junkyard so you don't have to deal with shipping on such a large item. Perhaps there's a Pull-a-Part near you.

https://www.pullapart.com/locations/

 

Hey guys, I'm about to take a wire wheel to my rear diff cover. My rear diff cover is rusted af and is crusty af. Is it a legit fear of mine that I will buff it out too much and destroy the rear cover? I really want to buff it out and then put some sort of treatment on it. What do you guys think?

 

Buy the industrial sized can for 3.98!

 

There's a rear diff cover thread.

I used a putty knife to remove the chunks, then a wire wheel. Then I JB Welded the weep points. Then I painted several coats of POR Topcoat.
Then I had the clogged rear diff breather cleaned out to functional. Been good over a year now. I couldn't find a new rear to just change it all. Wasn't so confident of the success of welding on a new pumpkin - so gave this 'patch' a try first & it worked. If yours isn't leaking you are ahead of the game.
Be sure your rear breather is breathing though!

Impact wrench for the win getting the fill & drain plugs out w/o issue.

 

Just started wire wheeling it and I can already smell diff fluid. I cant see any though. Probably gonna stop