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SOLVED! New starter...same result...help what am I missing

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Motopilot, Sep 2, 2020.

  1. Sep 5, 2020 at 6:13 AM
    #61
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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    Glad to hear its doing better. Put a check in the win column....:thumbsup:
     
  2. Sep 5, 2020 at 5:41 PM
    #62
    3.4Tundra

    3.4Tundra New Member

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    I picked that 2.0 up as well... The guy at the parts counter had no idea which one went on this truck, even with the VIN. He said the smaller was for the V6

    Anyway, I have a brand new starter and manifold gaskets. If anyone is in a pinch, PM me or I'll just hold onto it for future use. Located in Claremont CA.
     
  3. Sep 5, 2020 at 6:02 PM
    #63
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Supposedly, the 2.0kW is for Cold Spec Vehicles. The 1.4kW is for others. I guess it depends on the package the truck was sold. Everyone thats made the switch so far is impressed. They both fit per the parts confirmations, but one is Heavy Duty and cost less. A win win for anyone that needs it. :yes:
     
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  4. Sep 5, 2020 at 6:19 PM
    #64
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    @Festerw is good people and very smart. He's had several posts that have helped me. Glad you got it figured out.
     
  5. Sep 5, 2020 at 6:45 PM
    #65
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    I'm not sure about smart but I've had a lot of piece of shit vehicles with too many problems. :eek:
     
  6. Sep 16, 2020 at 9:21 AM
    #66
    GeneVS

    GeneVS New Member

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    I picked up a 2002 Tundra and it is having power issues. I'll check terminals. Thansk guys. :)
    I hope that is. Otherwise I got some fun trouble shooting a head of me.
    Truck has a new battery, starter, and alternator. :)
     
  7. Sep 16, 2020 at 11:19 AM
    #67
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    Give it a once over and if you don't find it you can start a new thread. Also, you need to post pics of the truck. We like pics. Like, a lot.
     
    ktundra and GeneVS[QUOTED] like this.
  8. Sep 16, 2020 at 7:54 PM
    #68
    GeneVS

    GeneVS New Member

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    IMG_4641.jpg IMG_4642.jpg IMG_4643.jpg
    I have different cable connections and I did sand/file the connectors but I wonder if I need to replace cables or just splice them to new terminal connectors.
    What do you think?
     
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  9. Sep 16, 2020 at 8:18 PM
    #69
    joseph_sal

    joseph_sal New Member

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    What power issues you’re having to be exact before so we could provide you with a better diagnosis?
     
  10. Sep 16, 2020 at 8:23 PM
    #70
    Lil Steve

    Lil Steve Living the dream

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    Those look like the stock Toyota battery cables/terminals, they still look OK but peel back a little black tape on the cables to be sure the copper strands aren't corroded. Then rinse those terminals with a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize any existing battery acid, you don't want to see any of the green crud that's shown in the nooks and crannies of your pics. Then make sure it's good and tight on the battery and check that the grounds are also tight on the other ends.

    Oh, and nice first Gen FZ-1, I've got the same one.
     
    GeneVS[QUOTED] and joseph_sal like this.
  11. Sep 16, 2020 at 8:32 PM
    #71
    GeneVS

    GeneVS New Member

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    I picked up this truck from my brother-in-law.He wanted to get rid of it because he was having electrical problems for the last couple of months where his truck wouldn't start all the time. Mostly it would.
    He had the battery, alternator, and starter replaced and I was able to drive it to my home and to the AutoZone and they didn't see anything wrong with it but some times it wouldn't start. I used my BlueDriver and it said to replace crankshaft position sensor and I did that and now there is no power in truck. I did put the old sensor back in but still nothing. Not even the dome light would come on even when hooking up jumper cables to battery. I checked all the fuses. I was able to get power in truck if I placed negative jumper cable on truck ground then I was able to start the truck and all seemed to be well. I started it last Saturday and parked it and again no power and I was NOT able to jump it. I sanded/filed terminal connections but nothing. Took battery out to charge. I'll try to mess with it this weekend. Thanks, gene
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2020
    joseph_sal[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Sep 16, 2020 at 8:34 PM
    #72
    GeneVS

    GeneVS New Member

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    :thumbsup:
    Thanks Steve. I'll take a look this weekend.
     
  13. Sep 16, 2020 at 8:50 PM
    #73
    joseph_sal

    joseph_sal New Member

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    Alright alright alright! Now we know, we have something to work with.

    Luckily, your issue is not bigger than connection problem and most likely those clamps you posted their photos.

    Based on what you said, my personal steps would be:

    1. Clean the battery terminals and clamps with household item such as baking soda and warm water or Pepsi/ Coke. (Use a wire brush on battery terminals).

    2. Ensure to tighten the clamps on terminals.

    The reason why I started with those is because you said no dome light until you connect jumping cables which mean you your clamps aren’t making a point of contact with the battery due to this green stuff.

    if you have a connection, as soon as you put those clamps on the terminals the lights such as the dome light would turn on! (The truck won’t start though until you tight them up).
     
    GeneVS[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Sep 17, 2020 at 6:03 AM
    #74
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    If you have a multimeter, you can test all your grounds/circuits starting at the battery.
     
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  15. Sep 17, 2020 at 6:54 AM
    #75
    Randy Morton

    Randy Morton Life takes its toll, please have exact change.

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    Take all of the connectors apart and clean them with a thick baking soda and water solution, and a wire brush. Then, spray on a chemical battery cleaner. I use CRC battery cleaner. Replacing the connectors that clamp onto the battery posts is also a good idea. Make sure all of the mating surfaces are clean and shiny. Reconnect and tighten everything and see if it'll start. If it does, you're almost good to go. The next step is to protect the nice clean terminals. I use CRC battery protector. If you start a new thread on this, please put the link here so we can find it easily.

     
    bmf4069, Lil Steve and GeneVS[QUOTED] like this.
  16. Sep 17, 2020 at 7:00 AM
    #76
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    This stuff is really good to use. Easy and clean to apply. Can be used in all electrical connections throughout the vehicle. The cleaner others recco’d above is great and highly suggested prior to application of 30-030.

    upload_2020-9-17_10-0-4.jpg
     
    GeneVS likes this.
  17. Sep 17, 2020 at 12:28 PM
    #77
    shifty`

    shifty` Is the Gila Copter a love machine?

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    Amen!
     
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  18. Sep 17, 2020 at 12:38 PM
    #78
    ktundra

    ktundra rust be damned

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    I found this stuff at Walmart for $2.97... turns pink where it finds acid and neutralizes it too.

    upload_2020-9-17_15-37-55.jpg
     
  19. Sep 17, 2020 at 2:49 PM
    #79
    DuneTransit

    DuneTransit New Member

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    I got tired of having terminal corrosion so I've put Marine terminals on all my trucks. Made from solid metal and beefy so you get a good connection. Not expensive either. Just an option if corrosion keeps frustrating you.
     
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  20. Sep 17, 2020 at 6:50 PM
    #80
    035VZFE

    035VZFE Restored a Tundra top to bottom

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    ECS Tuning DV Spacer ECS Tuning Turbo Muffler Delete ECS Tuning Luft-Technik CAI System A-Spec 60mm Charge Pipe Straight piped from resonator back, stock cat and downpipe
    Check your ignition switch. Since you have a first gen, this is no more than a ten minute fix. This is exact exact EXACT same thing that happened to my 03, and i bought it in non running shape. Your best bet is to dissasemble the lower dash beneath the steering wheel, then remove the ignition switch from the rear of the ignition cylinder, but don't unplug the wires. Grab your keys and stick them in the slot of the ignition switch, then turn them to the right. Your engine should start.
    Hope that Helps!
    Here's a Beck Arnley Ignition Switch
    https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-989-719-Ignition-Switch-Select/dp/B082P6MJH6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2D1M28ZHC4A37&dchild=1&keywords=2003+tundra+ignition+switch&qid=1600393755&replacementKeywords=ignition+switch&sprefix=2003+tundra+igniton+%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-3&vehicle=2003-76-1033------------&vehicleName=2003+Toyota+Tundra
    Please Trust me on this! My tundra sat for four months in my yard because of this. I learned this trick from an 98 Ford Escort that my dad had when I was a kid. We took apart the dash, removed ignition switch, stuck a screwdriver in it and turned, koo koo koo BROOM, Voila!
     
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  21. Sep 18, 2020 at 5:16 AM
    #81
    GeneVS

    GeneVS New Member

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    Picked it up yesterday. :thumbsup:
     
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  22. Sep 20, 2020 at 6:47 PM
    #82
    GeneVS

    GeneVS New Member

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    I cleaned all battery connections that I could see.
    I used a test light and 5 amp fuses (STA) inside the truck and a 5 amp fuse in engine bay (Outlet 2 ST2) look to be grounded.
    Truck will not start without 5 amp fuse (Outlet 2 ST2) in engine bay.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
  23. Sep 20, 2020 at 7:18 PM
    #83
    GeneVS

    GeneVS New Member

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    Battery is showing 14.25 volts when truck is running.
    Cab_2.jpg Inside cab
    Engine_2.jpg Engine bay
    Truck started with 28 STA 5 amp fuse pulled out. Test light shows both of these fuses as grounded if that means anything.
    Both 5 amp fuses are good and it makes no difference if I replace these fuses.

    Is it normal that test light shows both of these fuses as grounded?
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
  24. Apr 21, 2021 at 6:57 PM
    #84
    Jackfrost

    Jackfrost New Member

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    I just had the same problem. Stranded. No start, no crank. Just a click. Battery was 12.7v sitting. And when It was running it was 13.4v. I had a DTC P0335. Thought it was the starter. Bought new starter. Pain in the a$$ to put in. Then turn the key and..."click" is all I here. The same sound as before. So then I go and wiggle all the ignition coil connectors, then try to start it again and Boom!! She fires right up. So basically, I spent a lot of money on a new starter, wasted hours of my time just for it to be a loose ignition coil connector. There ya have it. Hopefully someone wont have my same experience.
     
  25. Apr 21, 2021 at 7:00 PM
    #85
    Randy Morton

    Randy Morton Life takes its toll, please have exact change.

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    That's wild. I would never have suspected that a bad connection on the coil would keep it from spinning over.
     
  26. Jan 5, 2022 at 12:03 PM
    #86
    THAT TUNDRA KID

    THAT TUNDRA KID New Member

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    Im having a similar issue as I just replaced my starter as it made that typical starter smack with no crank, and it ran right after. Did nothing to the vehicle after and next morning same thing, I have now replaced the starter 4 times and with every time same issue. I am at the point now of buying the new harness as I found a good deal on one, I replaced the negative terminal and as well as cleaned the positive terminal and even tried jumping the starter va wire and the fuse to by pass the safety to no luck. Made sure that the motor is ok by turning it over manually to check if it was locked up and also inspected the flywheel for any damage or rounded teeth but everything checks out. I also have bought a new battery to eliminate another possibility, we check the resistance on the wire to the starter and it was at [.548(ohms)] and would drop periodically to [.425(ohms)]. Im going to try today to strip back as much of the positive terminal as I can and replace it with new wire and terminal. If anyone has any suggestions Im all ears!!!
     
  27. Jan 5, 2022 at 4:23 PM
    #87
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    My factory negative battery cable corroded on me around 130k miles. Left me stranded in Yukon, OK at a subway. Thought it was battery, new battery didn’t help, replaced the negative battery cable which looked pretty green and it’s worked ever since. I just ziptied the new cable to the old cables wire loom. Didn’t bother removing the old loom. So if the battery is good, check all of your cables for good contact and check for corrosion.
     
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  28. Jan 5, 2022 at 11:51 PM
    #88
    KK6PD

    KK6PD 2 1 yr. retired . . . after 42 yrs

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    New Tires, Stereo & Speakers,Uni-Strut Tie Down Continue watching THIS SPACE FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS
    Geeze, I can actually relate to this thread! I just replaced the battery in mine. Kept dying, but dad, nothings been left on???
    So I charged the battery three times over a 5 day period, never a good sign, checked the acid h2o mix and level, but would just die out. RIP !
    Bought the new battery, as I was putting it in, I cleaned the two factory + & - cables first, cleaned the crap outta them, they were filthy.
    They sure set nicely after the taper reamer! The copper was fine, dry climate!
    I reconnected the truck's Hot & Gnd cables,no sparks,, Good sign, but then I started placing the 6th owner's aftermarket cables that were put in for a high power stereo setup. 2 R 2 B 10 Ga. stranded.. Yeah, G'rrrrr, but I had taped those ends first day I owned the truck. But HELL, GARBAGE!
    Then the trailer light controller... started to connect, and it sparked, big sparks..... not a good sign there either!!
    I traced it down to the trailer thing. Damn controller had shorted, but not enough to eat fuses, or let some wire smoke out! More CRAP!
    Needless to say, ALL the old cables, and their pal, Mr Controller of nothing, have been asked to leave the truck.
    Life is now good, she starts right up, and Costco gave me $15 bucks to turn the core in!
    Why that's almost enough to buy a "Case of Modelo" to celebrate!
     
  29. Jan 6, 2022 at 5:36 AM
    #89
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    ugh! Another expensive mod I have to do now that I know it exists. This forum I swear….
     
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  30. Jan 6, 2022 at 7:26 AM
    #90
    daveeasa

    daveeasa FBC Harness Solutions

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    Oh, I am planning a pre-emptive starter replacement and now I’m guessing I should buy some gaskets for it?
     
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