2013 Tundra 4.6L starting issues

Good morning folks. Got a little issue with my tundra not wanting to start! It’s been going on for probably about three months now but it’s just gotten worse in the last week or so. I’ve ruled out the battery because I just replaced it last week and the starter has been tested and is still good. Normally the problem starts after it’s been running for a while then I get out at a gas station or something and get back in and try to start it up and nothing! The instrument panel powers down when I hit the key like it’s completely dead. The only way I’ve been able to start it back up is to pull the positive cable and let it sit for a few minutes, hit the reset button right below the steering wheel and it resets and starts up. I suspect it might be a problem with my alarm system but not sure so I thought I might pick your brains to see what you guys thought!! Any help is appreciated!

 

Is your battery tied down??? If its not you may want to consider tying it down, it sounds similar to what I go through every now and then, but I lost my tie down, so I gave in and purchased a new tie down.. Next time it dies, wiggle the terminals first with the key fob in your hand as soon as it makes contact your alarm will set off, so you'll have an easier time turning it off.... after the first time it stall, second time it'll turn right on and stay on....

If its not this, then try switching keys, or to the valet key if you have them to detect an ignition problem recognizing your key...

 

How miles miles on your truck?
How did you test the starter?
Are you talking about the tire pressure reset button?

 

Am curious of this one myself.
How was the starter tested?

 

The dead instrument panel sounds like you're intermittently not getting power to any of your electrical system. The fact that the truck starts after you remove/replace the battery cable(s) says it's a conductance problem, probably dirty terminals, but maybe battery internal damage. You say you have to "reset" the alarm system for it to start, but I suspect that may be collateral and/or coincidental.

In sequence, do the following to eliminate each possible cause:

(1) Verify that battery is in good condition (12.6V+) without internal conductance issues. Since parts store tests are not dependable, I use an electronic tester which seems to work well (see below). A new battery is probably OK, but that assumption can waste time and effort. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.

$34 ANCEL BA101 Car Battery Tester 12V - Digital Automotive Batteries & Alternator Diagnostic Tool, 100-2000 CCA Load Capacity, Charging & Cranking Analysis for Motorcycle, Truck, Boat, RV, Marine & More

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0ARG3X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(2) Clean terminals (poles and cable end internal surfaces) with sandpaper to bright condition.

(3) Inspect battery cables for internal corrosion under jacketing (lumpiness, discontinuity in cable flexibility). Replace battery cables if any is found.

(4) Remove and clean to bright the battery cable ends at ground point and starter.

(5) If your problem still persists, then try having the alarm system disconnected and/or removed (assumes aftermarket).

If any of this exceeds your ability, you should seek help from a professional.