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Big Red - TundraHive's Build

Discussion in '1st Gen Builds (2000-2006)' started by TundraHive, May 11, 2020.

  1. May 11, 2020 at 11:33 PM
    #1
    TundraHive

    TundraHive [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2020
    Member:
    #44750
    Messages:
    21
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra Limited 4x4 4.7L
    Hey all. I've had this truck for a few years and have begun to make it mine (need to fix some shit) so I'm going to be posting my plans and progress here! Here's the journey thus far:
    IMG_20200312_192726.jpg MVIMG_20191229_105501.jpg

    I inherited it from my grandpa in 2017 with 135k miles, bone stock except for regular maintenance stuff. Since then, we've made countless trips up and down the California coast including one up to Tilamook, through Portland and back down. We're at 168k now and some issues have started to arise. Needed new tires (so might as well get new wheels):
    IMG_20200322_133345.jpg

    I went with Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 265/70R16 on 16x9 wheels. I'm really happy with how they fill out the bumper and are just shy of rubbing at full turn.

    Had to replace some O2 sensors:
    IMG_20200315_141758.jpg IMG_20200315_142655.jpg


    I was sick of setting my phone in a cupholder to use maps or change music so I swapped the radio out for an Atoto bluetooth unit. I'm very pleased with how this turned out as well! Startup time is <2sec most times and it connects to my phone very easily. Installing it took liquifying my brain and resetting it like a bowl of Jello, but once I wrapped my head around what I was looking at in the electric schematics I realized I had to pull out the amp, plug that cord into the wire harness, then join those wires with the wire harness for the Atoto. I used crimp wires and a lighter to seal. We did run into a stripped screw on the amp bracket so I cut it out with a jigsaw. Sometimes I prefer when a project is more butchery than surgery.
    IMG_20200405_200730.jpg IMG_20200405_174123.jpg IMG_20200405_174135.jpg


    Cleaned out 19 years of dust and parking in the garage of a woodworker with a soft brush, a wire brush, and an air compressor. Degreaser and some other detailing products are on their way to finish the job. Before and after the dry clean:

    IMG_20200427_143807.jpg IMG_20200502_203939.jpg

    Sanded and cleaned the old headlights but still wasn't happy with the brightness so I swapped them for Spyder headlights and LED bulbs. The corner panels on the headlights are giving me some trouble. The plastic bit that clips into the body on the Right one broke, and has never fit with the actual body to clip in on the Left side. I like the look and really appreciate the brightness though. Here's how she sits today:

    IMG_20200416_183518.jpg IMG_20200416_183539.jpg

    The suspension has felt pretty soft so I've been planning some upgrades. I recently got an opinion or two that said:
    - Shocks and struts are blown
    - The steering rack and pinion bushings are worn/loose and leaking
    - Pressure steering line leak
    - Both front CV axels leaking
    - Battery weak
    - Fluids were gross! Transmission fluids, differential gear oil, and brake fluids all flushed.

    They also noted that the coolant hoses, and possibly fuel filter are original. I assume the spark plugs and fuel injectors are OE as well.

    I have Dirty Deeds fuel injectors on their way. Next, probably need to look at a front and rear suspension upgrade and full steering assembly rebuild. After getting some advice on a forum in here, my plan has changed from 5100s to:

    - OME shocks/coilover package with AAL (2.5" lift)
    - Diff drop
    - JBA upper control arms
    - 0.75" spacers in the front and 1.25" spacers in the back to even the wheels out

    Regarding steering components - I'm prioritizing the durability of the truck and would be willing to pay for it. Is it worth it to go with OEM? Should I be looking at any particular components to improve on 'stock' and enhance durability/performance?

    Once all of this madness is over we'll start thinking about a camper build but for now, I just want to feel like I can keep all four tires on the ground and haul cool stuff if I need to :) Looking forward to any feedback, ideas, and experiences!
     
  2. May 11, 2020 at 11:56 PM
    #2
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2019
    Member:
    #25441
    Messages:
    10,024
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Indiana, Chicagoland
    Vehicle:
    05 rollover special
    custom body work, Billies with taco ARB springs, Icon AAL, TRD FJ trail team wheels, 2019 Toyota 86 radio, Blacked out interior, Added factory power everything, heater mirrors, ETC
    honestly ive never had luck with reman steering racks lasting. I would just spend the coin for the OEM new. i think mine was around $580 brand new, not reman. the original lasted 192k miles before its untimely demise to being rolled over.. might as well put the original part in

    OEM lower ball joints for sure.
    everything else aftermarket is usually fine
     
  3. May 12, 2020 at 4:17 AM
    #3
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    15,007
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Good to know!
     
  4. May 12, 2020 at 4:21 AM
    #4
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    15,007
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Nice job so far. The steering line leak could be from the worn out clamps up at the reservoir. I replaced mine with snake clamps and it stopped the leak from running down hoses to below the engine. Clean it it up and test for leaks after a drive. Hope this is all.
     
  5. May 13, 2020 at 8:38 AM
    #5
    TundraHive

    TundraHive [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2020
    Member:
    #44750
    Messages:
    21
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra Limited 4x4 4.7L
    Great tips, thank you!
     
  6. May 13, 2020 at 8:39 AM
    #6
    TundraHive

    TundraHive [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2020
    Member:
    #44750
    Messages:
    21
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra Limited 4x4 4.7L
    I hope that's all it is! I'll try swapping the clamps first. Thanks!
     
  7. May 13, 2020 at 8:42 AM
    #7
    Navi

    Navi New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2018
    Member:
    #18533
    Messages:
    1,003
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2019 CrewMax Limited
    Great looking 1st Gen, makes me miss my own 2001, which i loved so dearly. 1st Gen is the best Tundra, the 4.7L is a beast. Your truck will last a very long time and it looks good too
     
    TundraHive[OP] likes this.
  8. Aug 14, 2020 at 12:15 PM
    #8
    TundraHive

    TundraHive [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2020
    Member:
    #44750
    Messages:
    21
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra Limited 4x4 4.7L
    Updates with some work I did a few weeks ago!

    Realized my Grandpa stayed up to date with oil changes but did literally no other maintenance. 167k miles on original fuel filter, fuel injectors, spark plugs, shocks, etc.

    Gathered my tools and gave my baby a fresh step with a new battery, fuel filter, injectors from Dirty Deeds, and OEM spark plugs which cost less than $30 for the set of 8. These trucks are amazing. Check out the loss on the old anode. It was definitely running a little sluggish but just fine.

    There were plenty of learning experiences, especially with the fuel injectors. I wasn't thorough with replacing the same number of gaskets as I removed, so I ended up with one plug with two gaskets and two plugs with none... Don't drink beer while wrenching. Or do, and enjoy your truck driving like a vibrator until you can get back under the hood.

    IMG_20200524_161259.jpg IMG_20200524_161228.jpg IMG_20200524_181841.jpg IMG_20200524_181846.jpg IMG_20200605_180602.jpg MVIMG_20200524_132539.jpg

    The truck is also still on the stock suspension and I'm gearing up to change that. Thinking 6112s/5160s with Icon leafs but I'd like more than 1" lift up front - closer to 2/2.5. Any advice?
     
  9. Aug 14, 2020 at 1:01 PM
    #9
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    15,007
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
  10. Aug 14, 2020 at 1:03 PM
    #10
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2019
    Member:
    #25441
    Messages:
    10,024
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Indiana, Chicagoland
    Vehicle:
    05 rollover special
    custom body work, Billies with taco ARB springs, Icon AAL, TRD FJ trail team wheels, 2019 Toyota 86 radio, Blacked out interior, Added factory power everything, heater mirrors, ETC
    I run Billie 5100s with arb 885 springs for a taco and it netted around 2” of loft for me.

    5100s with icon 3 leaf aal in the rear and the cap got me a hair taller than the front with the overload still in place
     
  11. Sep 12, 2020 at 4:50 PM
    #11
    TundraHive

    TundraHive [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2020
    Member:
    #44750
    Messages:
    21
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra Limited 4x4 4.7L
    More updates! Finally got the rear suspension in. The truck is currently in the shop for a replacement steering rack, and they're doing tie rods and the front coilovers too.

    The new parts - Icon AAL and Bilstein 5162s

    New Bilstein 5162s vs OE Bilstein rear shocks

    Got about 1-1.5" of lift in the rear from these. I removed the overload leaf, but hung onto it in case I load up the rear end or need to tow anything.

    It's a pain in the ass to swap these leaf springs out, especially if the truck isn't parked super level. I was on my driveway and as soon as we lifted the cab off of the springs, they slid out of alignment. Took about 10hrs of wrenching with a buddy to get the rear end sorted out. Probably could've done it in 6 with a better situation.

    Bonus:
    Some beef back ribs I smoked on a Weber kettle
     
    The Black Mamba and imDementeD like this.
  12. Dec 11, 2023 at 8:34 PM
    #12
    TundraHive

    TundraHive [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2020
    Member:
    #44750
    Messages:
    21
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra Limited 4x4 4.7L
    Went to replace the front brake pads a few months ago and found the calipers were seized, so I replaced them and the rotors too! This weekend I replaced the sway bar links and it's driving very nicely. The Spyder headlight assemblies have failed so my headlights are wonky - looking to replace them.

    The arm between the passenger window motor and the window itself broke, so I had to buy a new motor and window. I had that done by a local shop.

    I'm about to embark on a cross-country move/road-trip and I'm debating between trying to haul my motorcycle on a hitch mount carrier, or selling the motorcycle.... hmm
     
  13. Feb 1, 2024 at 1:55 PM
    #13
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba Black Sneks Matter

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2023
    Member:
    #103472
    Messages:
    2,174
    First Name:
    Ryan
    DFW
    Vehicle:
    Black 00 SR5 AC 5VZ PreRunner
    Imma keep it stock
    My headlights did that. I haven't replaced them yet. Have bigger things to do. As for the move, sell the bike and get one when you get there.
     

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