Engine (possibly transmission) "winding" noise

Hey guys,

I've searched all over the place to find out what this humming/winding sound could be, while it doesn't drive me crazy as it more or less blends with road noise, it sure makes me think what the heck is it or if there's a fix for it.

Mostly sounds like it's winding up/down, goin lightly on the gas makes the sound but goes away if the truck keeps accelerating. Also happens when letting go but only lasts a little.

All I can compare it to is the typical whine of a manual transmission goin in reverse.

Any ideas?

Skip to 0:25. Video isn't loud at all so it's best with headphones turned up. A set of good speakers will have no issue either.


Updated: confirmed to whine all the time

 

There was a thread about the fan or the fan clutch making some whining noise or power steering ... Not sure if this is your problem but it may have some other info in there if you can find it.

 

How many miles do you have on your car?

 

50,000.

I actually found the video you mention, that one sounds WAY louder than mine.

 

Bump

 

Maybe rear end howl? Hard to hear it through my phone.

 

Hmm, that sound. Sulu, ahead warp factor 1.

My tacoma sounded like that in 4WD in the winter.

Tires, rear diff, wheel bearing maybe? hard to tell

 

Try adjusting trans fluid level to be full at 99F (lower end of temp range 99-111F).

I experienced a similar issue and it seemed to go away under same driving conditions once I added a bit of fluid.

 

I can't hear any unusual noise on the video, but my wife says I need hearing aids.

Does this noise change (increase/decrease loudness and/or pitch) with engine speed, or with vehicle speed? In other words, can you reproduce the sound in your driveway by manipulating engine speed, or does it occur only with the truck moving, with loudness and pitch proportional to vehicle speed?

@blanchard7684 has a good suggestion on transmission fluid level if the noise can be reproduced in your driveway. Another fluid level to check in that case would be the power steering reservoir.

 

I'll try this ASAP, guess draining the pan and refilling can't hurt anyway.

Pitch is almost always the same, little variation, never gets louder than it already is... which isn't loud at all to begin with. Only happens when in gear under acceleration/deceleration. If I go above 40mph the road noise is too much for it to be heard or even notice if its present at higher speeds.

I'm taking it for brake service anyway, the stealership's head mechanic is a friend of mine and he'll check it for free as long as I pay for parts and fluids and tip the helper... we'll see how it goes.

 

Don’t need to do drain and refill for this. Can adjust the level through regular process.

if you are going to get a flush done that’s another thing.

however you’ll still want to get the level set at 99F pan temps.

 

Does your sound happen at a certain speed? Mine has a slight whine I have noticed at only 55mph it seems like.

 

I've yet to try this since I don't have a thermometer.... But I might come up with something..., but FWIW, dealer couldn't determine the cause out of checking levels alone. Perhaps the transmission fluid was higher than 99F at the moment of the revision.

However, what would be the best way to nail 99F pan temps?

Mine does it all the time, every day, regardless of speed
There's no shifting issues and gears are smooth.

 

You don't say which engine you have, but all comments following apply to the 5.7L 4X4, which is what has been assumed. If you have a 4.6L, the fluid level checking temperature range is different.

You don't need a thermometer to set the fluid level (see SRM procedure below). This method is a little more complicated, but more accurate than a thermometer, since it's using the actual output of the thermocouples in the transmission. Ignore procedural comments about Techstream and entering menus, skip down to "HINT:" Insert a paper clip to jumper the correct OBD terminals, and follow the directions.

If you have successfully put the ECU in fluid level detection mode (See (d)), the shift indicator "D" will come on steady when fluid temp reaches 99 degrees. If the "D" indicator begins to blink, then the fluid temp is above 111 degrees, and you'll have to shut it off, let it cool, and try again later. The closer to 99 degrees you can set the level, the more fluid you will have in the transmission. As soon as the "D" indicator comes on steady, set your level. The closer to 111 degrees you set the level, the less fluid in the transmission.

Hint: Having to add fluid to get overflow once the fluid temp is at 99 degrees takes time, and the fluid temperature is continuing to rise as you're fumbling with funnel, hose, and fluid bottles. It is far better to add fluid to overflow point BEFORE beginning the level check (transmission cold) in order to insure overflow when the fluid temperature reaches 99 degrees.

 

Dang! Thanks for the write-up!

 

HaHa (always wanted to use that Smilie. )

It's a slow Saturday here in Tundraland, and you could use the help.

 

Welp.. upon further inspection by my pals at the local dealer, it was determined that the differential is responsible for the noise. A quick Google search and I found a video with THE EXACT same gear whine (no rasp or grind on mine though), I've spoken to the salesman and I'm currently waiting on the dealer to determine if it'll be covered under the 3 month warranty period for used cars... If I'm lucky I won't have to pay one cent cause this is an expensive repair.

 

Front or rear diff?

nm

yeah I’ve seen that same symptom in rear diffs