It Begins: Audio upgrade - I shouldn't be doing this... Ground for amp?

Hello everybody - I must not be very good at searching through here. I know the info exists. I have never done this before. I have a 1st Generation 2006 Tundra DC w/o JBL. Currently everything is factory. I am going to replace all the speakers, install new touchscreen head unit with backup camera, tweeters, amp, and powered sub under the seats. I have never done this and am taking the plunge. I don't want to pay geeksquad $600 to do it - and I won't have learned anything new.

If anyone cares to supply me with anyone else's walk through for any of these tasks for this truck:

Task 1: Installing an amp, how to connect it to battery, connect it head unit, cable routes, hiding cables.
Task 2: Install new speakers, how to wire them to new amp. Where to pass them through?
Task 3: Install the tweeters that came with speakers.

I bought the cable set from crutchfield following advice on these forums to utilize crutchfield. It was also my best friend's go to and in honor of him I through them. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK4/Crutchfield-CK4.html

Here is the amp (not through crutchfield) : http://precisionpower.com/product/trax4-1600d/

Speakers:https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CS674/Kicker-46CSS674.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC654/Kicker-46CSC654.html
Head unit:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KWM560B/JVC-KW-M560BT.html

My brother helped me set the amp under the driver's seat and screw it in. It clears it nicely. It is not wired yet. We also mounted the backup camera, but needs head unit to test. So again, you don't need to walk me through it, but if you know where helpful walkthrus exist already for these for my truck, please send send them to me:

Task 1: Installing an amp, how to connect it to battery, connect it head unit, cable routes, hiding cables.

Task 2: Install new speakers, how to wire them to new amp. Where to pass them through?
Task 3: Install the tweeters that came with component speakers.

Hope everyone is well. Crazy times. God help us.

 

PPI makes good amps. You should be happy with it. What did you mount it to, exactly? Like, how did you mount it? Amps can be projectile missiles during accidents when not properly and firmly mounted.

For the amp power, you'll want to run an 8 or 10 gauge power wire from the battery (or accessory bulkhead in engine bay, if one exists for 1st gen Tundra), please take a second to RTFM on your PPI amp manual for their recommended power gauge. SUPER IMPORTANT you NEED to fuse the power line within 18" of where it comes off the battery. That was standard in the industry and competition bitd, Although it may've changed to 12" now, I really have no idea. You can buy nice looking inline fuses online at various places. This way, wherever you pass it thru the firewall, if it ever arcs, it'll blow the fuse versus burning down your Tundra.

Oh, and any time you drill thru metal and pass a wire through it, don't be an idiot, use a damn rubber grommet. Can't even tell you the crap I've seen over the years. Ugh.

 

Thanks shifty, hopefully we did it ok. We used 2 2.5" self tapping screws to anchor it. We checked under the rug to make sure no cables would be pierced. Seemed like doing all 4 would be overkill although we did try a 3rd and we couldn't get it to catch. Your white tundra looks gorgeous.

 

Nice, the wiring kit from Crutchfield contains the in-line fuse that I will need for the amp. They did see my amp and paired it with the right gauge.

 

Wayyyyy too small.

4ga is the minimum. Make sure you get ofc not cca wire.

 

yes they sent me 4g. The PPI Amp says it has 4g power/ground terminals. Here is the wire set to power the amp. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK4/Crutchfield-CK4.html

 

Here is a master installer demonstrating how to remove a JBL system from an '04 Sequoia, and install a new amp. You don't need the JBL amp removal instructions, but there are wiring instructions for the amp and the subwoofer that will help. These trucks are fairly identical to our trucks.

 

I do t have the JBL. But I’ll bet it’s useful for take apart guidance!

 

Good luck and have fun. Car audio can be such a fun project. Started when I was 16 removing speakers and head units and still love it. Tons of info on here how to install on these trucks on here with some master audio members who can help. You’re taking on it all so be prepared to trouble shoot along the way. Take it one piece at a time.

 

Thanks man. Got a bit ahead of myself. I have the head unit in but not fastened. Decided to finish the backup camera first. Well let’s just say I got stuck there but I got it wired now and it’s working. Will post pics later. Count yourselves blessed if you have friends to do this with. It can be fun I’m starting to see that.

 

2 questions for anyone available:
My slim under seat sub has a 15A fuse in the back of it. The manual says to also:
"connect an empty fuse hodler within 18" (45cm) off the car battery, and run 10 gauge (or heavier) cable from this fuse to the amplifier location. Then connect the fuse holder to the "BATT+" ("+12V) connection on the subwoofer rear panel.

First. What fuse should I use in the fuse holder? I'm thinking 15A since the fuse in the panel is also 15A and the fuse rating in the specs says 15A?
2nd: Is it just me or are these directions confused? They don't make sense to me, but I'm thinking they want me to have an in-line fuse 18" from the battery.


Also, a helpful conversation about bluetooth mic placement: https://www.tundras.com/threads/looking-for-a-place-to-mount-bluetooth-mic.48526/

 

Yup, that is standard practice. You want a fuse on the power line close to the battery so that if the line ever shorts the fuse will pop and cut the power before the whole wire gets hot enough to cause a fire.

 

It's been 14 years since I did the same thing in the 2006 doublecab.

I ran the main positive wire from the battery, through the fuse, down and along the bottom of the truck and drilled a hole near the amp. Sealed the hole with silicone. That 4g wire is fat and I guess I just couldn't see an easy way to hide it under the door sill. I put a ring connector on the amp ground and put it on the seat bolt, sanded the hole in the seat bracket to get best conductivity. The door speakers I had wouldn't fit correctly so I made new brackets out of MDF. I ran those wires from the amp, under the carpet, along the door sill, then into the door through the access point.

I also had a subwoofer in a custom made fiberglass enclosure, that I made, that fits in the large storage space under the rear driver's side seat. It has a 10" IDQ subwoofer in it. I just pulled the enclosure out last week as I'm selling the truck. If you want to see it, send me a message.

You really don't have enough room under the seats to put much of a subwoofer.

Bought a 2020 and I'm just going to go with the stock system. My subwoofer days are behind me.

 

My bad, you're correct, I misread PPI specs. When I clicked his link to PPI's site I saw "400W" and defaulted to 8ga. I was taught to size gauge starting with 10ga at 100-200w and jumping gauge every 200w. i.e. 400w run 8ga, 600 run 6ga, 800 run 4ga, 1000w run 2ga and so on.

Believe me: I don't play when it comes to wiring power.

 

Thanks. Yeah man that is some heavy wire. Hope I don’t kill my battery for the few minutes I’ll spend with the radio on and the engine off! At least I’m taking a load off with LEDs in interior and some exterior.

 

So one of the reasons I chose this head unit is b/c I was told by Crutchfield it supported Aux in. Well you can see the picture of the back here: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KWM560B/JVC-KW-M560BT.html#&gid=1&pid=2

The port which is hidden by the cable on the lower right actually is AV in. I tried it and it only plays on one side of the car, does not pick up both left and right. So they told me

$8 Zeskit Premium 3.5mm Jack Male to Female AUX Audio Extension Cable, TRRS 4 Poles for Headphones with Mic, Speakers - 6ft

this cable would be the answer. I tried it tonight, but no luck, only the left side will sound when it's pushed all the way in at the back of the unit. If I pull it out some then the right side plays. Can someone tell me if they've ever been able to adapt this AV in jack to an AUX in jack?

 

It sounds like you have the incorrect cable. The way you describe it, the spacing is wrong on the male end. I used to have problems when I tried to use mono cables in a stereo input jack. Make sure the male end has three seperate sections. If it has two then it s a mono jack, and it will operate like you describe. This website describes what I m talking about although it s showing the larger jacks the concept is the same.
https://gollihurmusic.com/the-difference-between-mono-and-stereo-cables/

 

I just looked at the cable that was suggested to you. It is a 4 pole cable. I think you need a three pole cable. Here is an option that may work even better than you were expecting, and it s a three pole cable :

$30 BESIGN BK01 Bluetooth Car Kit, Wireless Receiver for Handsfree Talking and Music Streaming with Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car with 3.5mm Aux Port

https://www.amazon.com/BK01-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B01MSUWCZ0

 

Thanks Jwatt. So your suggestion bypasses the AV in port entirely and is external to the head unit connecting the older device through Bluetooth? I will have to consider it. Especially is there is no cable that will convert this mini AV jack to an aux in. I’m attaching the JVC’s manual page for the av in jack. My plan was to flush mount both the USB and AUX in through a single adapter that I purchased on Amazon. I do like the Bluetooth work around as a backup. If I’m understanding correctly it is not converting the AV input at all correct?

 

Ok so here appears to be the answer:

$8 GLHONG 3.5 to RCA Audio Splitter Cable, 3.5mm Mini 1/8" TRS Stereo Male to 3 RCA Female Jack Adapter Cord - 25cm (3.5mm Male Straight to 3RCA Female)

This goes to into head unit AV port and you connect this to it:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_979YMR197/Hosa-Stereo-Mini-Breakout-Adapter.html
and hopefully I can then bring it to the dash with this:

$10 BATIGE USB 3.0 & 3.5mm Car Mount Flush Cable, 3ft

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KGMJ5N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Those TRRS inputs are not always wired the same. I had some fun regarding the A/V input on my Kenwood headunit. I didn't want to pay for the Kenwood cable and found this video very helpful.

https://youtu.be/ul-RvOCrwUU

 

TRRS - thanks for the term - didn’t know it.
Pretty cool explanation here. Wish I had time to go through it all! Wish me luck on Crutchfield’s latest recommendation...

https://www.cablechick.com.au/blog/understanding-trrs-and-audio-jacks/

 

Folks how y’all doing out there. My amp is going under driver’s seat. The ground cable (4 gauge) provided is no more than 3 feet long. Is it ok to make my own ground bolt? Or can I use the seatbelt bolt? It looks like it would be much larger than the connector hole. By the way. Where the heck is this mysterious “chassis ground?” Have yet to find a picture of this bolt. Can’t find it in Haynes either.

 

There are two small grounds at each side front kick panel and one over top of the ashtray inside the dash. Those obtain battery ground from the firewall, and the other from battery to quarter panel ground. You could technically ground with a smaller self tapping screw next to your device into the metal. Might be a good idea to check and tighten/clean up those other grounds mentioned for good measure.

I know my engine ground screws were rusty at the chassis threads and had years of some white build up on the backside of the engine connection. Conductive electric grease is a nice addition.