Torque wrench preferences?

I would think for basic stuff you could get away with most wrenches and not have to spend lots of money.
Just remember to always set it back to zero before putting it away. This should be done with all torque wrenches.

 

Okay, I'm going to throw this out there.

A fish scale and a wrench. Using simple math. Length times force = torque.

cost about $15 bucks total including wrench.

Why is everybody making this so complicated for somebody looking to do simple oil changes.

and for what its worth torquing the oil filter housing to book spec will net you 1 of two things. 1) a hell of a time getting it off or 2) a broken plastic oil filter housing that you have to figure out how to get it off). Strongly suggest you tighten that by hand and then with a wrench using feel. It bottoms out so you aren't really torquing the housing like you think. You're just deforming the threads of the plastic.

Also, don't rule out doing suspension rebuilding/motor swaps, once you start to tool up you might find yourself tackling all sorts of stuff you weren't expecting

Hope this helps.

 

I’m not disagreeing about the going by “feel” method. I have always used the going by feel method with spin-on oil filters. I just figured that since the housing is plastic that this was the safest practice. So you’re saying the 18 ft lbs of torque is too much and overkill? Also, who here is torquing and who isn’t torquing the housing? Again, forgive me but this is my first vehicle that I’ve had with this type of oil filter setup.

 

You don't have to with Stahlwille's. Purely mechanical. No springs or tilt blocks. 10 years is way, way too long without having your T wrenches checked. Everyone's needs are different. Torquing on anything plastic is always iffy. Switch to metal..problem solved.

 

Buy the aluminum filter housing.

 

I broke my wives plastic housing (Toyota venza) after receiving it torqued to spec from the dealership. Granted i'm on my back under the car at an awkward angle attempting to get good purchase on the housing.

Take my advice for what its worth (not much as i'm sitting at keyboard and you don't know anything about me). But in my experience the 18 ft-lbs of torque was overkill for the plastic housing on the oil filter.

But, i also don't remove the drain plug before i replace the oil I just unscrew the housing (as i found it made a mess either way).

Lots of smarter/more experienced guys on this forum then me.

The worst part of the job is getting that stupid splash shield outta the way to get to the oil filter itself, makes buying an aftermarket skid plate tempting as it comes with a door (or fabricating a door for the splash guard.

And the book spec should be the required pre-load on the housing threads in relation to the oil filter housing to ensure adequate loading. Without knowing the material properties of the Nylon/plastic housing and the receiving threaded housing material (I'm assuming aluminum) and knowing the grease (oil typically fails at a lubricant for threads but is typically what we use because its available) I have no way to determining what the correct torque should be.

https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/94040-how-to-determine-a-torque-specification (Granted this for bolts and clamping loads not necesary screw type joints)


The Stahwille's stuff looks great. But $550 bucks for a torque wrench is just plain out of my budget as a home mechanic.

I replaced mine with aluminum. Not really sure anybody has reported breaking an plastic oil filter housing while driving. But its a cheap enough feel good mod so why not. (and i happened to have it on hand when my wife's venza plastic one was destroyed so that worked out in my favor).

If you're still reading and you are a first timer at removing that plastic filter assembly you'll need a special tool. Walmart makes a stamped aluminum one (that won't help much at 18 ft-lbs) and a few other places stronger style sockets/tools to get the filter off. Also a company makes a good assembly to drain the housing if you wanted to spend some money and not make a mess. Further a 10 quart bucket is required. make sure you're ready for that much oil.

lastly, you can buy a valve that you just cycle to drain the oil from the pan. It works well, no mess, but it does take a long time to drain 9 quarts from an essentially 1/8" hole.

Hopefully this helps.

 

True, mostly. I wouldn't buy a new Chinese made Snap On. Not sure America is very quality oriented these days either. But the older American made wrenches can be found on flea bay and the prudent shopper can find a good deal.

 

Still have one of the best , the old style with the long needle in 1/2 inch , built alot of racing motors with it. Works great, but just to hear the clicking noise , I have 3/8 and1/2 inch from Farm and Fleet stores , and also a 1/2 inch harbor freight , and a really nice 1/2 inch Dewalt my son bought me a few years ago. But yes strongly agree ,always return to below -0- when done. Also never have had one calibrated , except at work , and that was just because of ISO and mainly the way people took "no" care of them. For all of us no cal. needed if taken care of, and used properly.

 

I agree, when my Grandpa passed away he left me a rolling cabinet 48x48 with all American made snapon stuff. When I had a ratchet crap out on my the local tool truck stopped by but replaced with a Chinese made one, it has been returned and replaced 6 times by the same guy. He ended up giving my a pre paid card for $100 to get something else. I regularly stop by estate sales and such to see what I can find, but I have had good luck with HF, but I'm bot a professional, if I was I'd go with Cornwell or Mac

 

I went ahead and ordered the OEM aluminum housing for peace of mind. I’ll swap the plastic one out when it gets here. Going to do the hand tight method and maybe snug just a touch without a torque wrench like I always have in the past for spin-on filters.

 

I have wondered how the newer electronic torque wrenches do at maintaining accuracy and durability over time compared to the mechanical ones.

 

Badass setup!

 

You found it! Yeah nice setup. Best I've worked with after all these years. A full complement of parts too!.

 

Digital torque wrenches aren't necessarily better than non digital. Depends on the "guts". Has nothing to do with accuracy, repeatability, or durability. Simply convenience with the display. The vast majority of torque wrenches we get in our cal lab are non digital. I wouldn't buy a digital torque wrench. My preference...

 

Kuul that your grandfather left you that roller! Early Snap On! FYI....Cornwell and Mac are basically the same. Same "guts". You'd be surprised that most well known brands innards come from a single source....many