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How to do an Alignment at Home

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by jberry813, Jan 16, 2014.

  1. Jan 16, 2014 at 8:04 PM
    #1
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    Figured this would be worth posting on Tundras.com as well, just m0dified the content specific to Tundras (just ignore all the pictures of Tacomas).

    There’s a common misconception that alignment shops have voodoo tools and magically make your steering wheel straight and the truck track in the correct direction. It’s all bullshit. Anyone with patience and a couple standard tools can do their own alignment. Frankly I got tired of paying shops to do my alignment. In fact, I had a hard time finding a shop at all that was actually able to comprehend what it is I want them to do, let along understand English in any reputable form. The simple fact is nobody is going to put as much detail into getting anything done the way I want on my truck more than me. That said...how to do an alignment at home. This process is not exactly quick or short. In fact…it’s fucking long. But, if you’re tired of shelling out the money for alignments and never satisfied with the end result, it may be worthwhile for you.

    There are three major elements to aligning any vehicle: camber, caster, and toe. I’m not going to go into detail about each one. There are plenty of articles on the web that go over in great detail about each one and do a far better job than I could. Here’s an example: http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

    The first and probably most important step is to do this process on a LEVEL surface, both front-to-back and left-to-right. If your garage or driveway is slanted in any way…you won’t be happy with the end result. Park your truck on the level surface and get the wheels as straight as possible even if it means the steering wheel is not straight. We’ll correct an offset steering wheel later. Also ensure tires are properly inflated (whatever you normally run). Ensure the vehicle is in gear and parking brake set so the truck DOES NOT MOVE. If not, during the caster sweep the measurements will likely be incorrect.

    Camber
    Measuring camber is the easiest of the three. The only thing you need is an angle finder and a small straight piece of metal or wood. I have a Harbor Freight digital angle finder. IT was less than $30 and it goes out to one hundredths of a degree, so it’s plenty accurate for my needs and the base is magnetic.

    8B172E92-85BB-4541-8F7B-097EC9711ECD-158_99f4afb5bbbfdb8c46fd62788d872f6439de8fe6.jpg

    Ideally if you have a piece of scrap metal, it works out well because you can just stick the angle finder to it and not fumble with it. You’ll want a piece long enough to stretch across either the inner or outer lip of your rims.

    CDC47EED-7734-4F46-AB87-6C41E9D505A5-158_15e39092d3856d5e9539e8980a499b6552e37522.jpg

    Measure the angle of dangle, and that’s your camber reading. As shown below, mine reads 88* on the nose which is actually -2* camber. Measure both driver and passenger side and write it down.

    5A19881E-57CE-4224-84AE-8CCCC5ABF73C-158_6d34a87c8d14420195bee2084fcf5fae85cc2e6f.jpg

    Caster
    Measuring caster is a very similar process to camber, except you have to take two measurements, one with the wheels turned 20* left and one with the wheels 20* right. There’s a number of different ways to measure the 20*. I’ll go over the method I used as well as some alternatives.

    First take a large piece of plywood or anything large with a straight edge. Place it flush against your tire and mark a line on the ground. I used pencil because it cleans up easy after. In the picture below you can see I extended my line. You may have to do this on both sides if your piece of wood isn’t large enough as mine wasn’t.

    5AF3899B-0DF0-4DAE-B2D3-772249495D35-158_272493369697e326b881b221b15ef78dd8daf7f4.jpg

    37CF1BE5-F1A7-45AE-9848-DC452974F316-158_dc0776daa94f5aa6be530f9fe095327b99e6e5c9.jpg

    After you have your line scribed into the ground, turn your steering wheel to the drivers side until you are at 20*. Pictured below you can see I used an angle level set to 20* and turned the wheel with the board flush against it until my lines matched up. You can use anything that’s precise to measure your 20*, I just happened to have an angle level and it works well for me.

    AB1D4AE5-3F8E-4970-B46F-B977601FD476-158_5b362be5344e1a2190fc6eabeb69b370ef2826de.jpg

    If you don’t have an angle level, you can make your own tool if you will with nothing more than a protractor. Take a thin piece of aluminum or a manila folder and scribe out 20* as depicted below. Then just cut it out and you have your own tool to measure 20*

    hrdp_0411_19_zDIY_wheel_alignment_guide_e33e6935a2f35bbd2301a8716e1cfaa48fe3b4e2.jpg

    hrdp_0411_21_zDIY_wheel_alignment_guide_10f990ecd05a8dfb7fd991faecc7abb17cc084c5.jpg

    There’s another simple method to measure the 20*, but it requires a couple of those laminate tiles from home depot. If you have some of those tiles, or pick some up beforehand, park your truck on top of two tiles stacked on top of each other. As you turn the steering wheel, one tile will remain planted on the ground and the other will turn with the tire. You can measure the 20* with a protractor as you turn the wheels.

    hrdp_0411_18_zDIY_wheel_alignment_guide_d8c77103bd7cd7d1c4fb6e04a5634b88c90293b4.jpg

    Now that the wheel is 20* to the right, take a measurement exactly the same way you did for camber and record the number.

    6DBD8B51-C8FC-47F5-AC02-D6F20BDA90DF-158_361ae0e396cf05aff02d3436d37e9df83fe3eb7d.jpg

    Now just because the driver’s side wheel is turned 20* out doesn’t mean the passenger side is also 20* in. Check the passenger side with the same process with the board and angle level. Once it’s 20* in, take your measurement with the angle finder.

    Now turn the steering wheel 20* to the passenger side and repeat the above process for both driver and passenger side. In the end you should have 4 different angle measurements. 20* out for both driver and passenger side and 20* in for both driver and passenger side.

    My numbers were as follows:
    Driver 20* Out: 89.60
    Driver 20* In: 87.60
    Passenger 20* Out: 89.70
    Passenger 20* In: 87.80

    Caster is measured by calculating the change in camber from when the wheel is steered 20* out and 20* in and then multiply the difference by 1.5. For my example above:
    Driver is (89.60-87.70)x1.5=3*
    Passenger is (89.70-89.80)x1.5=2.85*

    10517D32-41B5-48B2-A76C-A23CB7CAE06E-158_6d361f0dd0634a4e09457faa320825d727e3cd4b.jpg

    Now obviously these are my “after” numbers. The numbers you initially recorded are a baseline for what your current camber/caster are and what needs to be adjusted. I won’t tell you what you set your camber and caster to as everyone has their own preferences based on their driving style. Personally I like as much caster as I can possibly get. If I set my camber at 0, I end up eating the outsides of my tires up well before the inside, so to counter that I add a little more camber than most people do.

    Adjusting Camber and Caster
    I attached the relevant section of the FSM for the first gen Tundra. Unfortunately I don't have the FSMs for the second/third gens. If anybody does have a copy and would like to send it to me, I'd be happy to read through it and add the relevant section and appropriate screen shots. The FSM goes into a lot more detail than I will, but I’ll try to simplify it as much as possible. On each LCA there are two adjustment cams, one on the front of the LCA and one on the rear of the LCA. The picture below show how to adjust the cam tabs to make each side of the LCA “longer” or “shorter.”

    First Gen Tundra
    ScreenHunter_05Jan161950_zps7fc45e25_7f2ee8e73efe23dfdcd47e08697d946595f21e45.jpg

    In a nutshell, if you want to add more camber, you would rotate both front and rear cam tabs “longer.” If you want to remove camber, you would rotate both front and rear cam tabs “shorter.”
    If you want to add more positive caster, you would rotate the front cam “shorter” and the rear cam “longer.” If you want to reduce caster (not sure why anyone would do that…but whatever), you would rotate the front cam “longer” and the rear cam “shorter.”

    As you can see, adjusting camber will inadvertently adjust caster and vice-versa. It’s a bit of a game to get both balanced the way you want. Once you make the adjustments you think might work, go through the camber and caster measurement exercise to find out how you did.

    Toe
    After you have the camber and caster set the way you want, only then should you set toe. There’s no point in adjusting toe until camber and caster are set as they will affect wheel position. Toe is always last!

    To check the toe, again make sure you are parked on level ground with the tires straight ahead and then center the steering wheel. Jack up one of the front tires then spray-paint a stripe on the tread while spinning the tire. Now you don’t have to paint the tire, but it makes the next step a lot easier. The spray paint will wear off after a couple days of driving anyway.

    47ACCA1C-6463-4C4E-9CFA-92F32F60E4D9-158_d229166202076c9ac4cf7c089fd7cc6a5031c4bc.jpg

    Scribe a sharp concentric line in the paint on the tread by spinning the tire. I used a nail hammered through a 2x4 and then pushed against the tread to ensure a straight line. You may wish to make more than one scribe if you want to take measurements from multiple locations. If you decided not to paint the tire, you can still see the scribe line, but it’s a lot more difficult to see.

    3E3D8B7C-D122-4822-8E90-A54D8050BA31-158_1a5ed82f55a30c15e7af9d5f3cb85df01ef105c9.jpg

    2C0A2CE9-A5A6-480A-BABD-4CE215BD8865-158_f9213b0b0bae9167d7bf2e5ec5024ba26abaded3.jpg

    Lower and remove the jack. You may wish to lower the jack fast so that the suspension loads again as it would be normally. Alternatively you can bounce up and down on the front bumper to load the suspension again.

    Now measure exactly half way up the tire both front and rear of the tire and make a line. If you look below you can see the mark I made with a sharpie.

    36267E14-88E2-4DE3-80CD-D344A40B51B4-158_2fe80c2e0ec4b662b5520cc8d0ad1d40040056cc.jpg

    Now the next step really requires two people. Really it’s a stupid easy process, but you need someone to hold the other end of the tape measure. Measure on the front side of the tires the distance between your scribe lines on the left and right tires at the middle point you marked. Write the number down.

    8E8366F1-0D9F-44FF-A566-51F99F4855E5-158_77c72454a3804330e8412667e52b2273835a281f.jpg

    Now measure the distance between the scribe lines on the back side of the tire. The difference between the front and rear measurements is how much toe you have. If the front and rear were identical, you would have 0 toe. If the front was 1/8” less than the rear, then you have 1/8” toe in. If the rear is 1/8” less than the front, you have 1/8” toe out.

    Once you have your measurements, just loosen the lock nut on the tie rod and rotate the rack ends to extend or shorten the ends until you see fit. After you make any adjustments with the tie rod, I’d recommend you turn the steering wheel lock to lock and back to center again so it transfers to the wheels. Then measure your front and rear scribe lines again to see how close you got. Repeat as necessary.

    Two things to remember when measuring and adjusting toe: First, true spec is measured midway up the tires. If for any reason you cannot measure half way up because of bumpers or skid plates or whatever, take the front and rear measurements 1/4 of the way up the tires, then double that to get the true toe as it would be in the center of the tires. Also, an off-center steering wheel can be corrected by adjusting one tie-rod more than the other. Steering wheel position has no effect at all on your final alignment. But if you’re anal retentive like me…it’s annoying as hell when it’s not straight.

    And that’s it! Simple huh? :D
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 16, 2014
    n0rth, omgboost, Luder88 and 38 others like this.
  2. Jan 29, 2014 at 8:46 PM
    #2
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck Dumbest Username

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    Dude... you might be a bad ass... awesome thread!
     
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  3. Jan 29, 2014 at 8:51 PM
    #3
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    You should see what I can do with a welder, zip ties, and duct tape.
     
  4. Dec 26, 2017 at 10:34 AM
    #4
    jbriceno

    jbriceno New Member

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    Hey jberry813: I have a 2011 Tundra Crewmax 2x4. I've recently had it in the same shop (very reputable shop, too) for front end alignment. The second trip was to correct a left front pull. When I got the truck back I noticed the same annoying left pull, slight mostly but somewhat more from time to time. I've rotated my front two tires, yet it continues to have that annoying left pull. Without too much in detail what can I attempt with my camber/caster adjustments and which side? Or, do you think this might be a toe issue?

    Thanks for your feedback.

    Jorge
     
  5. Dec 26, 2017 at 10:51 AM
    #5
    831Tun

    831Tun heartless Bastrd

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    Nice write up Jason! You made it really easy to understand.
     
  6. Dec 26, 2017 at 11:10 AM
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    TheBeast

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    @jberry813 very nice write up. Got any tips for adjusting a slightly off center steering wheel ? I see you mentioned adjusting one tie rod. any step by step or how to measure before/after ? thanks
     
  7. Dec 26, 2017 at 11:11 AM
    #7
    TXMiamiFan

    TXMiamiFan SSEM #3 and tractor extraordinaire

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    Nice write up as always!
     
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  8. Dec 26, 2017 at 2:21 PM
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    r4z0r51o

    r4z0r51o have fallen off the forum, but I’m still alive.

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  9. Dec 26, 2017 at 5:49 PM
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    MotoTundra

    MotoTundra The Ocho

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    That write up is amazing. Thank you. I don't think I will do it, but it's still awesome to know.
     
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  10. Dec 31, 2017 at 11:07 AM
    #10
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    Measuring is the same as in the article. You have to figure out if you are toe in or toe out. Set the steering wheel strait. And adjust the offending side.
     
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  11. Dec 31, 2017 at 11:34 AM
    #11
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    Damn Jason, the inspiration you give to everyone here is above and beyond. Cool stuff right there.:thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2018
  12. Jan 2, 2018 at 9:08 AM
    #12
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    Who's this Jerry guy?
     
  13. Jan 2, 2018 at 10:42 AM
    #13
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    Hahaha typo Jason. Forgot to edit. :frusty:
     
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  14. Aug 27, 2020 at 8:06 PM
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    The Patriot 1776

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    @jberry813
    A couple questions coming from a Tacoma guy:
    1) W/a 3" lift, how much caster am I looking for on a 3rd gen Tundra? (Taco is ~3.5°)
    2) When I lifted my Taco 3" & put 33's on it, I was able to max out the LCA adjustments to give max clearance between the cab mount & tire (adjusting the front cam bolts all the way inboard & rear cam bolts all the way outboard), then used my SPC UCA's to give me the camber I needed. Doing this gave me ~3 ° caster & prevented any cab mount rubbing. Can I do the same w/my Tundra?
    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2020
  15. Oct 29, 2020 at 11:53 AM
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    CowboyTaco

    CowboyTaco New Member

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    I have looked for DIY alignment techniques before and found nothing. This is awesome.

    Even though I have the lifetime alignment package from Firestone, I HATE going up there. They always make you wait an hour and usually screw it up. Seriously. I normally have to go back 2 or 3 times every time I get it done before it feels "right."
     
  16. Jul 11, 2021 at 9:31 AM
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    Fyshhead

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    6BA64B21-4D42-46C0-8ED6-661FD628824D.jpg Just had put on the Bilstein 6112 @ 1.9, looks great and even handles better. Went and got alignment done yesterday and they said my passenger wheel is set back a tiny bit compared to driver side. He said drive it for 1K miles and bring it back in to get looked at. I believe this is so to new leveling kit settling. Would love to get all your feedback on this if it’s bad or what the best fix would be, here is the printout from alignment shop. BTW, they are supposed to be a top notch shop.
    C933CD90-5314-4D86-AF5F-DE4E07DD4149.jpg
     
  17. Jul 20, 2021 at 6:23 PM
    #17
    Tundra-in-Cement

    Tundra-in-Cement Truck Chump

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    Once you determine your camber/caster, then make the adjustments on the cam bolts, what do you do to determine the result? Do you move the truck to let the suspension settle and then re-take measurements?
     
  18. Aug 23, 2021 at 2:43 PM
    #18
    Punisher1

    Punisher1 New Member

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    On a 2020 I drove into my dealership and they have these hunter machines at the door which indicated that my Camber was barely out on my front right wheel. They just aligned my vehicle in January so I refused to pay $152 to get it done again so soon. Since it is barely out can I just turn that front Cam bolt clockwise 1 or 2 marks to push the bottom of the tire out a little without bothering the rear? Looking at the front of the truck I would need to turn clockwise to push the bottom of the wheel out...Right Anyone?
     
  19. Aug 23, 2021 at 2:51 PM
    #19
    timsp8

    timsp8 Former Tundra owner for 13 years

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    I’d leave it alone. Those machines might have some play in them or it might not have been calibrated recently.
     
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  20. Aug 23, 2021 at 2:57 PM
    #20
    Punisher1

    Punisher1 New Member

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    I think you may be right as my goodyear Duratracs have only lost 1/32nd of tread over the 1st 5,000 miles and everything seems even. Though they told me I'm going to get uneven tread wear if it goes out too far and tried to get me to do a whole new alignment. I told them I shouldn't have to do an alignment in 5K miles.
     
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  21. Jul 10, 2023 at 7:12 PM
    #21
    Bmktw2

    Bmktw2 Yard Dog

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    Hello and thankyou for your write-up on the alignment process.
    I took my tundra to the Toyota stealership service center twice now and they cannot get my alignment correct. I picked up the digital angle finder like you suggested and am working to do the alignment myself.
    I hope I can ask you some questions during the process when they arise

    Thanks
     
  22. Jul 24, 2023 at 1:16 AM
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    ToyotaDude

    ToyotaDude New Member

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    2003 Tundra AC V8 4x4
    Hey jberry, thanks much for this writeup.

    How do you torque the rear LCA cam bolts that are obstructed by the steering rack? It seems like a 22mm crows foot could be used with a torque wrench but might not handle 100 ft lbs without risking rounding the nut? Maybe alignment shops just wrench it tight with a box end wrench....

    Thanks again.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2023
  23. Jul 24, 2023 at 8:30 AM
    #23
    Bmktw2

    Bmktw2 Yard Dog

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    Grunt twice.
     
  24. Dec 12, 2023 at 9:41 PM
    #24
    Fryphax

    Fryphax Need a bag over your head, Dad.

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  25. Dec 13, 2023 at 12:19 AM
    #25
    ToyotaDude

    ToyotaDude New Member

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    So, is there a typo on page SA-6 of the 1st Gen FSM jberry813 (The Mad Scientist) posted? It looks like the numbers for the example "standard value" (black dot) and the "measured value" (white dot) are transposed.

    Per the picture in the example, shouldn't (c)(2) say:

    Example:
    Camber: 0° 50' (.83°)
    Caster: 1° 18' (1.30°)

    And (c)(4) should say:

    Example:
    Camber: 0° 16' (.26°) or actually 0° 16' (.27°)
    Caster: 1° 17' (1.28°)

    The values in the example in the 2000 FSM from Fryphax looks correct.
     
  26. Dec 13, 2023 at 1:26 AM
    #26
    Fryphax

    Fryphax Need a bag over your head, Dad.

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    There may be variation through the years. I know that the first year models had a number of oddball parts that were different. I learned the hard way that I need to be very thorough when ordering parts as mine is essentially a 1999, one of the first ones off the line.

    Charm.li has all years / trim lines I believe if you wanted to compare for changes throughout the years.
     
  27. Dec 13, 2023 at 4:28 PM
    #27
    ToyotaDude

    ToyotaDude New Member

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    Thank you Fryphax and agreed. For instance, it looks like the 2003 v8 4x4 AC apparently uses a specific LBJ bolt with a different torque spec that is not consistent with other 1st Gen years (37 vs 59 ft lbs.), and there is a kit for both the LBJs that seems to be the cheapest way to get the OEM LBJs from Toyota:

    • Lower Ball Joint Bolts: PN 90119-10933
    • Lower Ball Joint Kit (both left and right LBJs): PN 04005-21134

    Toyota verified using the VIN.

    But even more confusing, and what I was pointing out here that seems to make it difficult for people trying to learn how to read the alignment chart in the FSM, is the example in the original post of this thread to the "1st Gen FSM" (looks like this might be the 2006 FSM). That document seems to give the numeric values in the example on page SA-6 for the black dot ("standard value") that are actually for the white dot ("measured current value"), and the numeric values for the white dot that are actually for the black dot - and this seems reversed! The figures and pictures seem correct from the example give in the FSM you posted.

    Was wondering if you or others that put your eyes on this agree it is an apparent typo?

    Thanks again.
     
  28. Dec 23, 2023 at 8:06 AM
    #28
    Fryphax

    Fryphax Need a bag over your head, Dad.

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    I will be working on the alignment today hopefully if I don't get too many work calls. I'll have to review then. Figuring this one out as I go.
     

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