Stripped bolt threads - how did I do it, how do I fix it?

I pulled my rear seat this weekend and did the fold down mod on my double cab.
As I was reinstalling it, this happened to one of the bolts in the rear wall.
How did I do it?
Was the seat bracket not aligned and I stripped the threads off?
Was it something else I did wrong?

Anyway, I tried another bolt and the same thing happened with the everything aligned.
So I guess the bolt hole threads are messed up.
So what now, how do I fix this screw up of mine?

 

This has happened to others on here. There may have been different bolt sizes not realized or not lined up correctly. Need to buy a new bolt and a Tap tool with correct or ssme threads to repair fixed bolt under seat.

 

Few options, "best" would be to buy a tap from somewhere like Ace or McMaster.com and run it through to straight out the threads. An alternative is go buy a grade 8 (metric grade 11) that's maybe tougher than that bolt and jam it in and hope you never want to get it out again You could also take a normal bolt and grind some little notches into it to mimic a self tapping bolt and it might help keep the threads from being totally jacked. And last option is cut the nut off and weld a new one on.

 

I would run a tap in the hole and get a new bolt.

 

Thanks for the quick suggestions..
I ordered 6 seat bolts from @Roman today.
Part # 72702-0C010
6 in case I screw up any more of them.

I went to Lowes and an auto parts store and they didn't have any bolts similar.
I'll look into the the tap, but I can't figure out the size and thread of the bolt.
It won't fit in any of Lowes fittings in the hardware section.

Can anyone tell me what size tap I need?
Seems all these front and rear seat bolts are the same size...

 

I'm sure someone will tell you the exact size, but Lowes/Home Depot suck ass for piece parts like bolts. Ace (and often small hardware stores) have a huge bolt selection that puts the big box stores to shame.

 

Another option is to see if you have an engine shop or a machine shop near you. I bet they would do it for you easily and you wouldn't have to buy any tools unless you want to strip some more in the future.

 

I don't feel so stupid now, I googled tundra seat bolt thread size and found several threads on different forums on the subject.
Still not sure of the size though..

 

I don't know any machine shops that would waste their time tapping a nut when it's like $15 for a tap lol

 

Does the description of the bolts you ordered from Roman have any info on the size? Tap sets usually come with a set of gauges that will tell you the thread size and pitch, maybe you can borrow one if no one here can tell you the exact size.

 

Roman or who you purchased from should be able to give the bolt thread info.

 

If you have a Harbor Freight around you go and pick up a set of these there a metric set and that is a metric bolt. This will definitely fix it. . Of course it’s not the best set but it will do and get the job done

 

What about AutoZone? They do sell some sizes but I bet they have a kit in their tool rental.

 

It tells me nothing..

https://parts.swopetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-bolt-seat-set-727020c010

@Roman Any chance you could get me the thread size?

Could you aslo make sure I ordered the right bolt?
2014 Tundra DC 5.7, I'm sure they are all the same.

 

There is a sixty piece set also that I just found.

 

Great idea, AutoZone and O'Reilly are close by..
O'Reilly loaned me a torque wrench before I bought one years ago...

If I can get to harbor freight tomorrow I'll probably just buy one.
Looks like it is something I need to have a around..

 

Last resort, take bolt to tool store and mesh taps into bolt threads until you get a match.
Or at hardware store find nut that fits bolt for I.D. / size.

 

Saw something on another thread that Roman on vacation for s bit.

 

Thanks, I'm second guessing I ordered the right bolt...
Being stupid is exhausting...

I think I ordered bolts for a 2000 -2006........................

 

I'm pretty sure there are 2 different bolt sizes for the seat bolts, at least on the front seats. Not sure if the same is the case for the back seats, but I think my CrewMax has different ones. I ran into an issue where I thought I had cross threaded one but caught it in time. The other bolt went right in.

Can you pull the bolts you were able to put in and compare them to the ones that stripped?

 

Just take one of the good bolts to the hardware store and try it on nuts til you find a match. I removed my seats for a couple of months and lost all my bolts. I walked into Lowe’s and picked one by eyeballing the size and thread pitch and brought it out to try on the truck. It worked and so I went back in and bought the rest.

 

I keep reading 14mm head, M10x1.25, 25mm long for the size.
It is indeed a 14mm head, but closer to 30mm long.

 

I'll try that tomorrow..

 

From what I remember, I believe longer is ok. They don’t bottom out.

 

Fyi, if you haven't used a tap to chase/ clean/repair threads before, Go slow and use some lube or oil. Go back and forth slowly. Taps can break in the nut if going too fast and or not lubed adequately, creating more issues. Remember you are cutting the metal to repair the threads.

 

Thank you Trooper2.
I have not attempted this before.
I'll watch several YouTube videos before I attempt it.

Am I cutting the threads at the beginning of the hole to meet the existing threads that are not stripped?
Or am I cutting new threads of the entire depth of the hole?

 

So true, I dont mess around going to Lowes or HD for hardware for my truck, i go directly to Ace and they usually have it.

 

If you get it started correctly (straight, true) you should only have to clean up the boogered threads at the ‘top’ of the nut. If you get it misaligned initially, you will fight it the whole time.

 

I had the rear seat of my crewmax out for sub install. If I remember right the end of the bolt tapers slightly, and I had a hell of a time getting them to line up properly because of it. Looks like yours got chewed up just after the taper, indicating a cross thread. It cranks easy at first because of the taper, fooling you into thinking it's seated; but then it becomes harder to turn. You're more inclined to keep torquing on it because you felt confident it was seated well to begin with.

 

Great advice!