Upgraded trans cooler

oh you must of missed the mark when tightening. i just saw the tab is bent away. its there so when you tighten it if its in that hole the bracket wont twist as the bolt gets right.

 

Nice!

Dummy light is set to illuminate at 239° on our trucks. From all the readings on these coolers the past few days, it sounds like most people drop about 20° by adding a cooler and/or larger cooler. 20° is the consensus.

 

I was just offered an extended contract for work in ND until December temps will be -/+ 0° at that time so I might be getting the derale 13011 fluid control thermostat after all. I talked to Hayden and they suggest that unit for below 32° apparently. They said ATF has the tendency to gel in a larger cooling unit and without it being able to heat up properly could cause problems. Any weather above freezing they said it was not necessary. Just passing the info over @SouthPaw

The trans cooling saga continues.

Edit: they also brought to my attention that the original unit did not have a thermostat (which I already knew) but brought up the good point that any vehicle that is in below freezing weather that has an auxillary cooler stock or aftermarket needs a thermostat to allow trans fluid to an acceptable temp for operation. He also stated that 180° is ideal in a perfect world but the temps we are getting with the larger cooler are perfectly fine possibly better for the life of the trans.

 

Good on ya for reporting back on this. I read the same info when pouring over the data which led me to the set up drawn above in post #110. You get the best of both worlds with the original OEM cooler action and when fluid temps rise above 180° the auxiliary unit kicks in.

 

I asked about running the new cooler in line with stock and he said there is no reason to do so, with the thermostat inline with the new cooler it's all this truck will ever need and more. More points of failure as well.

 

Duly noted. Thank you. Explains the reason I couldn’t find an example.

 

Along with more points of failure, there's other aspects to consider. When I was looking into coolers for my rig in the original post, I also looked into a second rad. What I was cautioned about was the amount of hydraulic head that would be added with introducing that much more tubing/resistance to flow into the system. With the added resistance, would the decreased flow adversely effect the system? Just food for thought.

 

That's not really what I got when I read it. There's a remarkable difference between running trans temps at 120 and 0. I'd guess they wouldn't even really think running at 110 is such a huge deal. You won't find anyone saying it's a good idea to keep your trans cooled to 0, though. Those are two, entirely, different things.

 

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a7...F FLuid Temperature needs,that range (or not).

Interesting read

 

I'm in.
Probably going to do it next weekend.

It's way bigger than stock.

 

Order a derale 13011 fluid control valve to plumb into the lines before cooler. It's pretty much the most fool proof combo. Myself and @SouthPaw have installed the same cooler and have both concluded that the derale unit is mandatory to avoid overcooling especially in cooler weather. Good luck and leave an update on how it goes!

 

Mine will be in Wednesday so I’ll report temps once I get it in. Should have another mountain drive on Friday so it will give some good information.

 

I'm in sunny San Diego. Not sure if I would ever (overcool) The transmission fluid

 

You would be amazed how cool it will run with 50° outside, add rain and you won't see numbers over 120° at highway speeds. The derale unit stabilizes Temps and gives you control over you system. With just the cooler you are subject to whatever the elements are and driving conditions. Just food for thought.

 

I Ordered a derale 13011 fluid control valve.

If I have time ill install everything this weekend

 

This may be a bit of a switch of direction but, does any have a comparison or preference between the

$69 Tru-Cool Long brand Transmission Cooler External Thermal Bypass 708-4739P6

Tru-Cool bypass and the

$66 Derale 15719 Fluid Control Thermostat Kit

Derale bypass? The only reason I'm asking is, the cooler I used in my Cadi was a Tru-Cool and I've been impressed with it. If I were to put the Hayden in my Tundra, I'd be inclined to use the Tru-Cool bypass. If we're being honest, I may even go with a Tru-Cool trans rad over the Hayden.

 

I looked at both and the derale had more reviews and looked heavier duty, at least to me. It was also on prime shipping but they both should work fine.

 

Really good research and info that makes me want to upgrade my cooler. Noticed you are in Colorado as well. Are you measuring trans pan or torque converter temps?

For comparison, I was towing a 4k trailer up Hwy285 last weekend and saw torque converter temps up to 227 degrees for brief periods of time. It was 90 degrees outside which didn't help. Most of the trip, the temps stayed around 160 on flat roads and 200 uphill. Torque converter temps were 20 higher than trans pan on hills and same temps on flat roads. Using OD off most of the trip. I drained and filled the ATF fluid just before the trip to have a good baseline.

 

What device/app were you using to monitor temps?

 

I'm using an UltraGauge MX 1.4.

 

I’m using an old android and Torque Pro so whatever the ECM uses to read, that’s what I’m seeing.

 

Had a chance to wheel a little today. It's 95° out and 78% humidity. I wasn't easy on it at all lol went right up to 181 and bounced back to 171 creeped back to 180's right back down to 170's. I'm really impressed with the setup and this is how it will be for good. The derale regulates fluid perfectly at the correct temps and the Hayden cools the shit out of the ATF quick. Glad we put our heads together on this @SouthPaw

 

The major difference I see is the derale is a high flow unit. 20 GPM for high output systems. It's overkill to the max but works well, has a lot of great reviews, and can be found fairly cheap. The tru cool is blue though...that might get a few guys lol

Edit: more investigation reveals the derale has a port to replace the thermostatic valve and service it. Tru cool...no

 

Finally have a device to measure temps! Today was low 80’s. Stop and go traffic trans pan was reading 160° max. Once speeds got up to 45mph+ the pan temps dropped quickly to 150°. My set up is still OEM. I’ll be able to compare with your Haydens once the air temps rise a bit.

Also, I monitor towing.

Seems like stopped at lights with foot on brake and in ‘D’ the temp rises about 5°. Put in ‘N’ and the temp drops 5°.

Engine Coolant stayed around 200° steady regardless.

 

Damn my coolant has never cracked over 192°....time for another cooler @Professional Hand Model only kidding

 

Yeah. I’m developing a baseline right now before a doing anything else. The upcoming Timing Belt Job will incorporate a new fan clutch and coolant sensors. This baseline will let me know if any improvements happen.

I’m surprised the Trans Pan Temp didn’t go higher based on everyones stories. Are you measuring at the Pan or another location like the Torque Converter? Is it even possible to measure that spot on our trucks? I need to program my reader?

Also, it seems based on readings from others that the Torque Converter is usually 20° higher than the Pan reading?

 

I would think it's possible but no one has provided a working PID for our transmission. I've only seen the PID for the 5 speed auto.

That's what I've read as well.

 

Go big or go home

 

If you haul or wheel hard you are going to really like this setup. Normal driving you won't even know it's there but your trans will love you for it.

 

I'm thinking here.

From the trans to the t stat, then to the cooler and back to the t stat.

Do I go into the cooler on the top or in the bottom?