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Stalled while driving

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Evileddy1b, Aug 10, 2020.

  1. Aug 11, 2020 at 11:20 AM
    #31
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    That's kinda the road I was heading down:
    No click
    Just died
    Battery reads good

    Sounds like the ignition switch is fubar. If it turns but wont actually move to the start position, it ain't gonna start.
     
  2. Aug 11, 2020 at 3:32 PM
    #32
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    I am going change it out . Take care of what small money items hoping one of them will be the culprit. Key will cycle to every position. But i have multiple fingers crossed.
     
  3. Aug 12, 2020 at 11:06 AM
    #33
    Lil Steve

    Lil Steve Living the dream

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    I'm not saying this is the cause, but it seems you have a quick release bicycle seat clamp on your negative battery post. I'd at least replace that with a nut and bolt to make sure the negative terminal is tight around the battery post. If you try to move either battery cable with a horizontal twisting motion, do the cables move? If so, they're not tight enough.

    15970966660013754531536896007281~2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2020
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  4. Aug 12, 2020 at 4:58 PM
    #34
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    I corrected that this afternoon and giving a good charge now with good battery charger. I bought a battery load tester from HF for $20 and when battery had load applied it was still in the green as good but a full charge while i am at it.

    Would anyone have any point to point wiring diagrams they can pass along to me here or PM?
    From keyed ignition to everywhere. I have not found anything on my truck. I am still calm but frustration is mounting.
    I am waiting on keyed ignition module to be shipped.

    15972764504007772364739629953238.jpg
     
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  5. Aug 12, 2020 at 5:02 PM
    #35
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    No they didn't move before but of course the thin metal did give to bending. These are still not Toyota oem , i understand but a helluva lot better than i had .
     
  6. Aug 13, 2020 at 3:58 AM
    #36
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    I'll take my manual with me and if nobody has gotten it to you I'll have it at lunch.
     
  7. Aug 13, 2020 at 4:16 AM
    #37
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    Thank you sir!!! I do appreciate it. My neighbor!
     
  8. Aug 14, 2020 at 5:17 PM
    #38
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    So i might of got a little carried away but since i dont know exactly where problem is . I am checking all the electrical terminations and junctions.
    Question what do all the relays control on backside of fuse panel in the cab? Why the hell would Toyota put them in this spot? I know the answer "tiny hand engineer's".

    IMG_20200814_191243094.jpg
    IMG_20200814_191305083.jpg
     
  9. Aug 14, 2020 at 5:25 PM
    #39
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    Also while i am here can i just remove these 3way butt splice to remove my factory alarm? I really dont use it. If someone wants my truck they can take it , its lojacked anyways. What else do i have to remove besides these for the alarm?

    IMG_20200814_192209496.jpg
     
  10. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:09 PM
    #40
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Uh.. those splices are from an aftermarket alarm that very well may be the cause of your issues
     
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  11. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:16 PM
    #41
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Yeah. Thats a good call. Maybe a bad splice is killing the engine? Good eye on that.
     
  12. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:26 PM
    #42
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    Awesome i will continue on with this. Sir so i just noticed something that doesn't seem right. Nothing with my main problem but concerning for sure. The gear positioner seems to be missing a gromet or tension lock ring . Is this an accurate assumption or it is meant to be like this?

    IMG_20200814_202108648.jpg
    IMG_20200814_202209809.jpg
     
  13. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:34 PM
    #43
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    those grommets break. only way to get a new one is a brand new shift cable. or locate a sequoia or tundra in the junkyard and extract the grommet from them without breaking it
     
  14. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:40 PM
    #44
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    I know it has been discussed before but where is the craftsmanship of workers these days? I wouldn't be able to work at that kind of place that doesn't care about quality of cosmetics. Toyota wiremen are crap!
    This is my work follow the conductor art.

    IMAG1358.jpg
    15974555772434641697561933954853.jpg
     
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  15. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:47 PM
    #45
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    Can i use anything else?Maguyver style does it have to have play but to keep it from falling off. I know its not right but right now money stopped flowing last week (lay off) def
     
  16. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:47 PM
    #46
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Automotive wiring is built to be mass produced. Toyota’s wirings actually pretty good compared to a lot of other companies.

    the splices you have going on are from something aftermarket
     
  17. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:48 PM
    #47
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Look around for a box with connectors that look like they belong in a rc car or computer. That will likely be an aftermarket alarm box. And more than likely cuts into the main ignition wires somewhere near the ignition switch. This is how they cut ignition if the alarm is tripped
     
  18. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:52 PM
    #48
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    Ok so these tiny wires are but spliced in #10 wires that lead to keyed ignition and a break glass , relay, fuse, and main security module and my tpms is wired into their wires. Is there a typical drawing that anyone has to help me get this out of here but to keep what i need to keep.
     
  19. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:53 PM
    #49
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    I’m afraid aftermarket alarms can be a mess. Not much help I can offer there.
     
  20. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:54 PM
    #50
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    Yes sir that is all here

    1597456381653904952247125806149.jpg
     
  21. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:56 PM
    #51
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    Bummer i also had a smart start hooked up to my vehicle 7 years ago. Dismissed! But still there quality lagged also . I found a stripped wire with another wire wrapped around with tape . Huh . Fixed that but that was just preventative as it didnt help my current situation.
     
  22. Aug 14, 2020 at 7:00 PM
    #52
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    This is 80% of the time something that’ll cause a vehicle not to start. It likely has remote start functionality and if you have the remote sometimes this can get the truck to start, just using the remote.



    look up the part number or model of the system on the box and diagrams might be out there
     
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  23. Aug 15, 2020 at 6:43 AM
    #53
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Factory alarm and Lojack'd. I would start there for sure. Most likely culprit based on symptoms.
     
  24. Aug 15, 2020 at 8:33 AM
    #54
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    99% of the time, you can just unplug the black box/brain and that kills the alarm system. Yes the shitty wiring job will still be there but it would rule that portion out.

    I had a truck that had an aftermarket alarm that was causing the GM PASSLOCK security feature to kick in. You would have to do a key relearn each time which consisted of three 10 min cycles of attempting to start the truck. After running it down, it ended being a resistor the alarm company placed in line with the wiring harness to trick the truck into thinking there was a key in the ignition at all times. Car toys quoted me $80-$100 to completely remove the rest of the wiring but it never gave me any more problems so I just left it.
     
  25. Aug 15, 2020 at 8:35 AM
    #55
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    LoJack is now off and currently removing aftermarket alarm. Both of which i no longer want or need anymore (hint,hint).
     
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  26. Aug 17, 2020 at 1:27 PM
    #56
    Evileddy1b

    Evileddy1b [OP] New Member

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    I am still searching point to point plus removed the lojack and aftermarket alarm which i found this yellow with grey color morse code print around the wire cut in half Not me!
    But as i delving farther into this fix. I am now wondering if i fix with suitcase, dont have any, size 22 butt splice barrel, or with ferrules crimped and a small wago mechanical connector . Over did . Yes but wont this repair cause resistance an furthermore mess with ECM and disaster to be larger than current crisis?

    IMG_20200816_215949249.jpg
     

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