Install complete on additional transmission cooler

The ecm needs to see a temperature of 167F or it will set P0128 and turn on the check engine light.

 

I made a gauge for gear number and overlayed the TC locked on top of it as a white ring using obdfusion. Here’s a pic. The white ring is visible so the TC is locked.

The TC locked pid is part of vehicle specific extras you can purchase for $10. There are hundreds of them included, well worth the price.
You can keep the trans in s2 with ovtune but the TC needs specific conditions to lock, rock crawling doesn’t meet those conditions and you can’t force it to lock. It locks in 4, 5 and 6.

 

Nice, I like the HP guage. I don't remember seeing that one...

 

@jc153
@Ruggybuggy

Do you know mechanically speaking and without any tuning (OVTune, etc.) If the transmission can or will lock in 3rd gear (S3)?

My understanding is that TC can only lock in S4 and higher. and in S1,2,3 it's always unlocked. Is that true?
Is there any condition (without tune) that it locks in S3 or lower?

 

Question for you. Would the engine light come ON if you step on it when engine is cold (bad idea)? let's say someone lived near highway/freeway and did that on a very cold winter day.

 

Sorry I don’t know.
Edit: My TC only locks in 4, 5 and 6.

 

Doubtful, never saw one come in for that and I live in a very cold part of the country, -40.

 

I'm not sure without looking it up. I'll check next time I have the truck out.

 

The TC will not lock up in S3.

 

@jc153

I've looked and looked and still can't find the HP pid. Help a guy out!

 

Did you try the calculated pids? I see a few named "engine power" and "engine torque"

 

Thanks, I didn't see those. I wonder how accurate they are?

 

I created a second dashboard and we'll see how accurate the HP and TQ are.

 

Looks like you have it figured out. It’s hard to say how accurate they are. My power gauge is all over the place. It displays current/instant power so it’s constantly changing.

 

I am using OBD Fusion, and have the $10 vehicle specific package. I have spent much time trying to figure out how to make a light up ring for T/C lockup. I was able to make a working T/C locked using a digital "heads up" display that shows a 0 when unlocked and changes to a 1 when T/C locks.

I assume your white ring for T/C lock starts as a "Radial Gauge", I tried that and was able to shrink the pointer to a dot in the center, but unable to accomplish much else. any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

This is my dashboard, it works but I would like to have the lighted ring over the gear for T/C lock. Being an old guy who is technically challenged this stuff doesn't come easy.

 

Yeah man it’s was a PITA to figure out, a lot of trial and error. I used a radial gauge with only the ring showing for TC locked and placed it on top of the gear gauge. I honestly don’t remember all the steps but here are a couple pics of how I made my gauge. I can take screen shots of the entire gauge build process if you need.

 

I was able to combine the gear and TC lock with the radial gauges. You have to overlay the gear Gauge over the TCL gauge and make the background on the gear gauge transparent and move to front.

 

It was already figured out months ago by another member who drop boxed the gauge. There's a thread about it somewhere.

 

Can you export your settings and put this on drop box or Google Drive?

 

I have a 2015 Tundra 4.6. Does not have a trans cooler, only heat exchanger. IfI have some ideas after looking at the heat exchanger. Can I disconnect the coolant lines and connect them together to bypass the exchanger. Take the trans fluid line that feeds the exchanger and extend it to a front mount aux cooler. Then run a return like from cooler to where the exit line for the exchanger went into the trans. There are 90 elbows coming out of the trans feeding fluid to the exchanger. They make block off kits for Dodge diesels to block or bypass the exchanger and only use the aux cooler. Had one on mine. Cooled the trans a lot better with out the exchanger. Never got to cold in the winter. Our Cherokee has 2 small aux coolers and never gets to cold in the winter. My Chevelle never gets to cold, on colder days. Here is a pic from a different model. But mine looks the same. Please let me know if this is possible or anyone else has done this.

 

I know this is a old thread & no one is prolly familiar with this. I suspect the two o-rings have gone bad on my puck. I lose a decent amount of trans fluid & this is after a IPT trans build last year after my trans went. I’m curious what’s going to happen when I unbolt this to get to the o-rings? Will I have ATF pour out? Coolant? Would pinning it cure the leak of trans fluid? Any helps appreciated

 

You will lose about 4 ounces of fluid. You don't need to remove the coolant hoses, just remove the three bolts attaching the warmer, and pull the warmer away from the thermostat to gain access. Repair manual says to lube the o-rings with ATF before installation. For reference the specified torque on the three warmer bolts is 10 ft-lbf (120 inch-pounds), but you won't be able to get a torque wrench in there. Apply about 30 pounds force at 4" on your 12 mm socket+extension+compact ratchet.

Pinning the thermostat will have no effect on the leakage if the problem is the warmer o-rings.

 

Thank you, Iv been very hesitant to take it off and tackle the job cause I thought I’m gonna pull this and ATF is going to gush out and I’m gonna ruin the $4500 trans I just put in. I’d pay with a smile to get it done professionally but it’s like “drop it off and maybe we’ll get to it this week”. I very much appreciate the info.

 

Do you have a way to fill the trans back up? When you put the cooler in you will have to add about a quart of WS fluid and set the fluid level. The cooler and lines will contain about 1/2 quart of WS.

 

Yea I’m actually on my way to Toyota to grab some WS, I typically do the pin in / temp between 115-135F and fill from the over flow on the pan.

 

Here are the instructions to set the level correctly. If you need more help ask. Setting the level correctly is important.

 

Thanks man, I use to have that pdf on my old phone. Doubtful that you’d happen to have one on changing out this part? Also they’re looks to be 2 sets of o-rings, should they both be changed do u thing?

 

If you can't confirm that the leak is from the thermostat-warmer joint, I would change all four o-rings. In fact, my opinion is that it's more likely that the leak is from the thermostat o-rings. If the thermostat was removed from the transmission for the rebuild, then the thermostat and warmer would likely have been removed together as an assembly. Replace them all.

Just to confirm, @Ruggybuggy is telling you that you are using the wrong temperature range for level setting. Level checking temperature for the 5.7L (AB60) transmission is 99-111 degrees F.