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Workflow and tools question

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by robabeatle, Jul 11, 2020.

  1. Jul 13, 2020 at 6:38 AM
    #31
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Just replace the whole link. It's possible to get just the bushings but typically the joint on the bottom is loose by that time as well. While you're there I'd replace the frame mounted sway bar bushings as well.
     
  2. Jul 13, 2020 at 6:41 AM
    #32
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Also if the bottom mount on the coilover is clocked the wrong direction grab the shock eye with large pair of channelocks you can rotate the shock body to line it up.
     
  3. Jul 13, 2020 at 7:03 AM
    #33
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Thank you and sorry as I am a wrenching noob. I will need a google translate of this one! I have channel locks but by clocked, you mean it is rotated facing the wrong way? And the shock eye is the bushing, maybe?

    links like these?:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-L-R-Stabilizer-Links-sway-bar-2pcs-fit-for-TOYOTA-4RUNNER-TUNDRA/172889499864?fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3AToyota%7CModel%3ATundra

    I wonder if the local stores might have these and the frame bushings.
     
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  4. Jul 13, 2020 at 7:16 AM
    #34
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    1. Lol, look what I found on the driver side. I bet fixing this will help

    image.jpg
    Anyone know what size bolt and nut that I can get today? I won’t pull off the rear shock until tomorrow.
     
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  5. Jul 13, 2020 at 7:29 AM
    #35
    MNtundra

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    C9068645-EA33-4971-95DA-ADE681439156.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2020
  6. Jul 13, 2020 at 7:44 AM
    #36
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Thank you!
     
  7. Jul 13, 2020 at 8:02 AM
    #37
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    I think I will wait on the sway bar issues. The other bushing dont look too bad and there is no play, by hand at least, in any of it.

    Steering rack bushing bolts now torqued to spec. Just waiting on the suspension delivery but install will be tomorrow as it is already 91 and feeling very humid in the desert.
     
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  8. Jul 13, 2020 at 8:03 AM
    #38
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    What @MNtundra said for the shocks.

    Bushings should be available locally or they should be able to get them next day. And correct on those links, not sure I'd use those specifically myself but I'm sure they're ok.

    Bolt and nut should be Toyota #90105-12080 and 90179-12091, but I would just take the one from the other side to the hardware store and match them up.
     
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  9. Jul 13, 2020 at 8:34 AM
    #39
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Okay, actually just got the shock bolt out of passenger side. No problem.

    will sway bar links and bushings improve ride feel? I am going a long ways in that regard already so if it is noticeable, I’ll see what next day parts I can find.

    thanks you guys. It’s like having gurus are you finger tips.
     
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  10. Jul 13, 2020 at 8:45 AM
    #40
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Looks like $40 for Moog links and bushings.
     
  11. Jul 13, 2020 at 9:47 AM
    #41
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    Umm guys, when I take off the stock coil overs, what to do about spring tension. I have one nearly off, other than the single 14mm that is close to the engine for which I can’t get a socket on nor do I have a 14 mm open wrench. But the lower bolt was holding a lot of tension and when removed the spring “popped” a bit as it lengthened. No worries?

    image.jpg
     
  12. Jul 13, 2020 at 9:58 AM
    #42
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    okay, i think messed up by taking off the middle bolt up top. that holds the tension, i think. glad i didnt get hurt on that!

    hope ican get the coilover off but i need to get a 14 mm open ended
     
  13. Jul 13, 2020 at 10:27 AM
    #43
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    pit that center nut back on, tightened, spring compressed et voila:

    image.jpg
     
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  14. Jul 13, 2020 at 10:43 AM
    #44
    Darkness

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    Yup, don't touch that center nut.

    The one top bolt I think on the driver side is a pain to get at. You will need a box end, preferably a ratcheting box end, even more preferably a ratcheting box end with swivel head. Seems like you're moving along well.

    For the sway bar, I don't think you'll feel much improvement from changing the looks themselves unless the ones you have are busted.
     
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  15. Jul 13, 2020 at 10:53 AM
    #45
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    here is the damage. time to, more carefully, read about sway bar bushings

    image.jpg
     
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  16. Jul 13, 2020 at 10:55 AM
    #46
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    thanks. so that mistake on the drivers side gave me the idea on the passengers side to tighten that center bolt which allowed that bottom bolt to be relieved of some compression and was easy to pull out.
     
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  17. Jul 13, 2020 at 10:57 AM
    #47
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    these helped

    image.jpg
     
  18. Jul 13, 2020 at 11:01 AM
    #48
    Darkness

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    Good wrenches!
     
  19. Jul 13, 2020 at 11:22 AM
    #49
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty The Desert rat, 6 lug enthusiast

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    I run no sway bar links, just let the bar sit neutrally and it doesn’t hit anything, drives like a boat!
     
  20. Jul 13, 2020 at 11:34 AM
    #50
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    I definitely notice a lot of body roll around corners.
     
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  21. Jul 13, 2020 at 1:10 PM
    #51
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Don’t listen to @Darkness on these sway links bushings. He is a sway bar hater!:rofl:

    @FrenchToasty is right about the boating feel. :D
     
  22. Jul 13, 2020 at 1:42 PM
    #52
    Darkness

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    I consider that letting my independent suspension have some independence.
    :oldglory:

    Its probably worse for you than it is for me since I have stiffer coils. You can drive that way until your li is arrive, just be careful and no sudden movements.
     
  23. Jul 13, 2020 at 1:45 PM
    #53
    HBdirtbag

    HBdirtbag New Member

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    no sway bar - boat feel FTW! I actually went from a 700 to 600 lb spring, love the way it drives on and off road now :D
     
  24. Jul 13, 2020 at 1:54 PM
    #54
    fighthedude

    fighthedude New Member

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    Strong work
     
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  25. Jul 13, 2020 at 3:46 PM
    #55
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    look what arrived!

    image.jpg
     
  26. Jul 13, 2020 at 4:36 PM
    #56
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    front done

    image.jpg
     
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  27. Jul 13, 2020 at 5:57 PM
    #57
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    I have spent an hour trying every trick I can imagine to compress the rear strut to get it in the lower mount. Using the jack is not working as there is a lip on the jack that I cant get it over when near the mount. Nor if I go past the mount and try to let out the jack pressure as it does drop faster than the shock expands. I put a piece of wood on the top of the jack to overcome the lip. Closest, even got it in the mount but in there it is lower than the where it needs to be to get the bolt through. Frustrating.

    No success. And cursing a lot didnt work either. Stupid left hand that doesnt last more than 5 minutes. Quit for the day. Maybe some way to zip tie the shock compressed to the right length??
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2020
  28. Jul 13, 2020 at 7:16 PM
    #58
    robabeatle

    robabeatle [OP] New Member

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    So I see that some people use a strap that is compressed under the hose clamp holding on the 5160 reservoir. I will likely try that method, but it will require compressing the shock and getting the clamp tight at the same time. Or maybe get the lower bolt in and then "hang" with my body weight on the upper to get that into place. This actually seems like workable method.
     
  29. Jul 13, 2020 at 7:17 PM
    #59
    Darkness

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    Don't give up, get creative. Try lifting the truck by the frame if you can so that the distance between axle and frame increases. If you have the tow package there is a bar in front of the hitch that works well. Use jack stands and be really careful about that. Then you won't need to compress the shock much.
     
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  30. Jul 13, 2020 at 7:19 PM
    #60
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty The Desert rat, 6 lug enthusiast

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    I was just gonna ask if the frame was jacked up in the air to spread the distance of shock mounts
     
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