Complete Spring/Strut assembly to replace OEM Bilsteins?

Hello Everyone,

I have a question that may be kinda dumb but here it goes anyway.

I was looking to add the adjustable Bilstein 5100s to my 07 Tundra in lieu of a lift or leveling kit. I need to level it out so that water doesn't pool in the bed, and so the truck doesn't look like it is sniffing the ground! But then I replaced the struts on my wife's 2006 RAV4 and I learned that replacing the entire front strut and spring assembly is much easier than trying to pull the strut out and dealing with the spring. Plus I'd be getting all new mounts/bars/springs to go with the new strut.

So here goes the question;

Do they make an entire Front Strut and Spring Assembly that would add 3-4" on my front end?
I was attracted to the 5100s because I could just pop them in, have new shocks and get it closer to level. But after working on my wife's car I think i'd rather replace the entire assembly. Im thinking that bolt holes would not line up correctly but hoping someone can clarify this for me.

Does the part I dream of actually exist?

 

Bilsteins will not get that much lift but Toytec coilovers will. I have Toytec Alumas in the front along with SPC UCA's. I have Toytec shackles at 1.5 along with 1/2 axle shims in the rear. For rear shocks I have Toytec Boss with resis. I run 285/70/18's on an 18x9 0 offset wheel.

 

I think there are several brand coilovers that will get you what you want, but I think you would need other parts to accomodate it; steering knuckle, maybe uca, and possibly others.
I have 7" lift. The fox coilover can adjust both up and down. Not sure how far though. I ve never tried to mess with it.

 

Thats a good looking truck!
I am not really trying to run big tires or anything, I am just trying to bring the front end up.
Well, if anything was possible I guess I'd like to bring the front end up 4" and the beck up maybe 1".
What is the best way to go about doing this DIY? Maybe I should just consider a leveling kit?

 

There are leveling kits that will bring the front up close to 3" but leveling kits/spacers ride a little rougher. You would have to do the same amount of work to install a leveling kit as you would swapping out to a coilover setup. Once you do raise it up you will want bigger tires because the stock will look way to small. Mine are 34's.

 

Interesting. That makes sense. So what is the difference between a "lift kit" and a "coilover setup"? Is that the same thing?

What Coilover setup would you recommend for me to bring my front up 3-4"?

Any reason why I would pay someone to install this v. doing it myself? I don't really have much experience doing this kind of stuff but I am pretty handy with tools. I have some big jack stands, a floor jack, air compressor and impact wrench...

Im assuming after I do all thing I would need to take it in and get an alignment ?

 

A lift kit 4 inches or higher usually requires cutting the crossmember and installing a drop bracket. A coilover setup is removing the stock setup and installing a longer setup...which is what i have. You can do it yourself, but it will help to ask a lot of questions and watch some youtube videos. If you go 3 or higher, you will want to change the UCA's to get a good alignment. The setup really depends on what you want to spend. You can go with Eibach 3" non adjustable coilovers for around $600 or move up to adjustable Toytec Alumas like what I have. Check out the different options at Toyteclifts.com

 

Ok so lets say that I installed these: Then I would also need new UCA? Looks like they are right at 3" of additional lift.

When I look at the Amazon reviews for the Bilstein 5100s there are plenty of people showing before and afters with 3" of lift. So whats the difference? Other than price?

Which UCAs did you use?

 

To answer your original question, yes they sell completely assembled coilovers that replace the stock struts and which will lift the front end anywhere from 1” to 3”, depending on what you want.

Many advise to replace the UCAs if you go with 3” of front lift to more properly align the front end and to avoid having the upper arm hit the coil spring at droop. Going above 3” of lift with a coilover (or spacer lift) uses up available down travel and negatively affects the geometric angles of the tie rods, CV axles (if 4wd) and ball joints. Any higher and you’ll want to look at drop bracket lift kits, which are more involved but don’t necessarily result in higher front diff ground clearance.

You can go with high end, high performance coilovers or with more moderately priced ones. A popular coilover is the Bilstein 6112, which includes a 2.5” diameter shock. The bigger the shock, the less prone it is to heating and shock fade. 6112s are moderately priced compared to high end ones that may cost twice or more. Some places offer them fully assembled, too.

Toytec is a vendor on here and also offers different options, such as the coilovers you posted in the link above. I have no experience with those, but I like how they’re ride height is adjustable with the spanner wrench shown.

 

Hey thank you for the good information everyone! Again, I apologize for my novice. I am just getting into this DIY car stuff, but I love it!

I did all new shocks and brake pads on my wife's car saving us $$$. I told her that my tools have paid for themselves

I looked at theses: https://www.shocksurplus.com/produc...019-toyota-tundra-4wd-rwd-all-specs-46-206084

But I think that I need more than 2.5" to level my truck out. That 2007 Tundra is so low in the front! Why do they do that? Gas mileage?

 

Yeah, those pre-assembled 6112s will work.

The TRD Pros (not to be confused with the regular TRD model) come with 2” of lift already. If you look at those, they look fairly level. 2-2.5” may not sound like much, but it was noticeable enough for me when I first installed my 6112s. Mind you, the 6112s may give you more lift than advertised at first until they settle after a few days to a few weeks.

 

Ok life got busy there but I have been looking at some lifts.

In your opinion what is the difference between theses? vs.

https://www.shocksurplus.com/produc...019-toyota-tundra-4wd-rwd-all-specs-46-206084

lots of options out there for 3" lift, how do I choose? Are all the ride qualities basically the same?

 

I have the Toytec Boss and like them a lot. This is the first truck I have had where I have done any suspension modification and I don’t really have anything to compare them to so they may ride like crap for all I know lol....but they are an improvement over the factory for sure. I would go with the Aluma’s over the 6112’s simply due to the fact that you don’t have set adjustment heights with the Toytec and you can adjust while on the truck if you need to dial them in after install and they will perform just as well most likely. Plus the Aluma’s look much more custom As well IMO.

 

Here are the Toytec Boss on mine getting ready to do Shackles in the rear and max my front up to the full 3” lift

 

Another vote for Toytec. Biggest advantage to Aluma for me was for added corrosion resistance being aluminum vs steel bodied. I debated between these an the Bilstein 6112 an also was looking as OME. But at the end of the day, for me, I wanted Alumuminium body an I wanted fully adjustable without screwing with shims..

 

If one were to put the Bilstein 6112 up front, to level the truck, should anything be done to the rear? Meaning, install a comparable quality rear setup without lift to maintain the leveling nature of the 6112s? I have seen some using the 5160s out back. If they are installed without giving any lift would that be to basically match the front to the rear in terms of quality of component? If you put the 5160s out back at no lift is there really any difference than just leaving the stock TRD OR bilsteins in the rear? I’m in a similar boat, wanting a quality level up front.

 

Yes I would say the 5160 is the match or equivalent to the 6112 up front. Sort of like the 6112 is bigger and beefier then the standard 5100. The 5160 is also upgraded slightly with the added resivior an other features that put it a level above the standard 5100 out back, however I do believe the 5160 is built/ intended for a lift. Any 5100 series is better then the standard 4600 for sure. Even with no lift.