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Some work planned for basically the whole front suspension

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by wcooperider3rd, Jun 18, 2020.

  1. Jun 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM
    #31
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Fortunately for him they aren't. Not sure if the springs are stock but those are KYB shocks anyway and they don't make a drop in quick strut for our trucks.

    IIRC the Monroe's have a gray insulator on the bottom perch also.
     
  2. Jun 23, 2020 at 7:13 PM
    #32
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    I've heard about the Monroe quick struts. I definitely made it a point to avoid those .
     
  3. Jul 6, 2020 at 3:14 PM
    #33
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    Update . Still haven't tackled the suspension yet, waiting on my Bilstein 4600s to come in (in the future I do plan on upgrading, but I just need to get these old ones replaced). I'm also looking at the leaf springs since I can literally push down the back with little force. Y'all got any suggestions?
     
  4. Jul 6, 2020 at 3:16 PM
    #34
    robabeatle

    robabeatle New Member

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    I'm curious about this comment as my truck has the monroe struts and the suspension feels like garbage. I am waiting for a bilstein upgrade. Makes me feel better to know that what I am riding on know is known to be quite bad; the upgrade will be all that much better. (?)
     
  5. Jul 6, 2020 at 3:19 PM
    #35
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    Bilstein was the OEM for the TRD package for I believe just 05? Maybe other years. They're a well known brand, with different options for our first gens.
     
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  6. Jul 6, 2020 at 3:20 PM
    #36
    robabeatle

    robabeatle New Member

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    Yeah, I am going with a 6112/5120 but am curious about other's experience with monroe struts.
     
  7. Jul 6, 2020 at 3:22 PM
    #37
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    General Springs looks like where I’ll be going for mine. The Access Cabs Leafs are super affordable and the Double Cabs are just a little more in cost. They have OE style or Heavy Duty with an extra leaf for additional cost.
     
  8. Jul 6, 2020 at 3:32 PM
    #38
    robabeatle

    robabeatle New Member

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    Those are quite inexpensive. Have you read any reviews?
     
  9. Jul 6, 2020 at 3:38 PM
    #39
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Just the ones on their site and and a few members here who ordered them and liked them. They fit the bill and no complaints from what I’ve read. Maybe someone will chime in that has them.


    USA Made with USA Steel and unpretentious on the phone like most hand models tend to be.
     
  10. Jul 11, 2020 at 6:55 AM
    #40
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    So, shocks and struts have been replaced. Shock replacement, too easy. The STRUTS, however, gave me hell. The Moog struts weren't clocked correctly, so I had to compress the spring and adjust the clocking for both. Now, here's where I fucked up. I installed the struts, but my control arm was forced at a much lower angle because of it. As a result, I adjusted my sway bar, (accidentally tore one of the boots on a link (oof) and now it is sitting at an angle between the bushings. Pics to come. What did I fuck up lol
     
  11. Jul 11, 2020 at 7:04 AM
    #41
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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    Pictures will help... Not sure why the control arm angle would change, unless these are taller struts for lift? If that's the case, yes, the angle of the Stabilizer links would change significantly.

    Once you post a few pics, we'll figure it out...

    Cheers
     
    revtune and Tundra2 like this.
  12. Jul 11, 2020 at 7:34 AM
    #42
    revtune

    revtune New Member

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    2006 Tundra: Stock air intake 3 inch catback Magnaflow 13742 2.5 inch front lift 1.5 inch rear blocks 2014 sr5 4Runner wheels (17x7) 1.5 inch hub centric wheel spacers p285/70/17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 Weathertech floor liners
    From messing with my suspension over the years. Whenever you loosen or disconnect the sway bar link, you should loosen both sides. Don’t tighten one side at a time, because now the whole thing is in a bind and doesn’t want to move into position. The sway bar end links should be tightened fully once the truck is back on the ground. Otherwise you will get a clunk noise.
     
  13. Jul 11, 2020 at 7:35 AM
    #43
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    Alright, so this is the first time I took a look at it since it's been on the ground. Yesterday at the shop I was out of time so I had to go quickly, and fucked up the driver side link by over torquing the nut while it was at a shitty angle, and now that it sits, there's a FAT ASS gap between bar and bushings. I'm probably gonna cut that bitch off tbh. IMG_20200711_071300.jpg IMG_20200711_071221.jpg IMG_20200711_071214.jpg IMG_20200711_071152.jpg
     
  14. Jul 11, 2020 at 7:36 AM
    #44
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    This is where I fucked up im a bit new to the game.
     
  15. Jul 11, 2020 at 7:46 AM
    #45
    revtune

    revtune New Member

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    Hey man, shit happens. I’ve messed up a sway bar link before. What happens is when the truck is back on the ground, the link is more straight up and down. You can pretty much tighten the shit out of the lower nut. Use your discretion on the top nut. I’ll try and get a pic of the thread amount on top.
     
  16. Jul 11, 2020 at 7:52 AM
    #46
    revtune

    revtune New Member

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    Here you go.

    E322636E-879C-42B0-9076-FBB0ED8FF161.jpg
    943D16C3-4EAC-4843-8759-18CAD4FD319D.jpg
    1FBA61BB-33A3-480C-9104-1F1021A1B28A.jpg
     
  17. Jul 11, 2020 at 7:54 AM
    #47
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    I appreciate you . Im gonna buy new links in a couple days and replace them. (AND DO IT RIGHT lmao. )
     
    N84434 and revtune[QUOTED] like this.
  18. Jul 11, 2020 at 8:25 AM
    #48
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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    Live and learn... There are WAY worse things to screw up that Stabilizer links.

    Just think of the education you're getting!
     
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  19. Jul 11, 2020 at 8:32 AM
    #49
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Meh, if the lower joint isn't loose tighten the nuts down on the upper and leave it until they start rattling. Mine are rusted to shit with torn boots but they're still funtioning.
     
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  20. Jul 11, 2020 at 8:58 AM
    #50
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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  21. Jul 12, 2020 at 9:43 AM
    #51
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    I'm gonna replace em, fuck it, they're cheap, easy to swap. I'm trying to improve the rig in an off road capacity, so my next project will be the lower control arms since the bushings are fucked and I don't feel like pressing new ones lol
     
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  22. Jul 12, 2020 at 9:52 AM
    #52
    Pucks18

    Pucks18 Fleabit peanut monkey

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    I reccomend doing carrier bearing first. I may be talking out of my butt, but i wouldnt want to be taking a hammer to my new u joints like your gonna have to to access the carrier bearing.
     
  23. Jul 12, 2020 at 9:54 AM
    #53
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    I actually did the carrier bearing and center u joint a month ago. I do plan on doing the forward one and the rear as well in the future.
     
  24. Jul 12, 2020 at 8:23 PM
    #54
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    KYB makes good struts.. dont think they make quick struts for our trucks.. probably original coils
     
  25. Jul 18, 2020 at 12:46 PM
    #55
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    So heard more clunk, realized that I,too, was a victims of the travelling tranny mount bolts. Lmfao:bananadead:
     
  26. Jul 18, 2020 at 12:52 PM
    #56
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Do you have a picture of said bolts? I have a clunking noise that happens only at real low speeds. I've never been able to track it down.
     
  27. Jul 18, 2020 at 1:30 PM
    #57
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    So I don't, but it's easy to describe. Go underneath the cross member underneath the tranny, and you'll see two holes. Deep in the holes, you'll see bolts (or if you're like me and see two spots) in each hole. That's your transmission mount
     
  28. Jul 18, 2020 at 1:40 PM
    #58
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    I retract my statement, there's a video I took while I was using my phone as a mirror, and I exported the frame one frame shows the back of the transmission, and then the other shows the holes underneath the cross member.VID_20200717_182244_exported_8917_1595104615264.jpg

    VID_20200717_182244~2_exported_0_1595104768421.jpg
     
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  29. Jul 18, 2020 at 7:28 PM
    #59
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Glad you figured this out. Seems like this bolt problem is a 2WD 2005-06 problem. Post up your new part#’s when you get them!
     
  30. Jul 18, 2020 at 8:02 PM
    #60
    wcooperider3rd

    wcooperider3rd [OP] New Member

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    Here's the part number on the online order from ToyotaScreenshot_20200718-195441.jpg
     

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