Putting 5100's on 166k mile 2006 DC. what else should I do?

My 2006 2wd DC has 166k on it. I'm doing 5100's to level it (+2" front, no change to rear).
Rack was replaced in 2018.
Truck is never offroad or used for towing.
I was thinking about new control arm bushings

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/kt03012bk

Good idea?
anything else I should do?

 

Thread moved to 1st gen section. Those members know errything!

 

Welcome to the forum.
Mileage is not your only concern, your truck is roughly 15 years old.
Has the timing belt been done? That is job 1

 

You could swap in new oem lower ball joints, uca and lca bushings and upper ball joints.

 

I should have been more specific:
Anything else suspension/steering related.

I negotiated the timing belt be done when I bought the truck in 2018 with 133K on it.

Salesman: "we'll provide the parts, you pay the labor"
Me: how much is that?
Salesman: about $275
Me: OK
Service tried to charge me $700. TRIED

 

Was wondering if I should do the ball joints.
the link I posted was for the UCA & LCA bushings, which, unless I'm talked out of it, I'm doing them.

 

If your doing the suspension, install new OEM lower ball joints, inspect the uppers. If they’re good don’t worry about them. Be ready to replace lower control arms/bushings if the alignment cannot be done due to seized eccentric sleeves either.

 

Sounds good.
If you're going to lift/level the front then you'll want the extended length sway bar links.

https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/SMX-122270T

 

I read something about the sleeves. I should see that when I do the bushings, right?
I'm doing the work, and don't want any surprises when I take it in to be aligned.

 

Did not even think about that, Thanks

 

Since you are doing the work yourself, read the instructions and pay attention to the pics. You don't want to over/under tighten. It's not difficult

 

You’ll have to mess with the alignment cams if you want to know if they’re seized. It’s how you set camber and caster.

 

If your lower ball joints haven’t been replaced, I’d replace those. Probably the weakest point on our trucks and no point in risking it when they are fairly inexpensive.

160k miles, the radiator might go bad soon so might consider that. Also fairly inexpensive.

 

While you’re down there, might as well:

https://www.energysuspensionparts.c...MI-ezHw6O16gIViLzACh19nwc5EAQYASABEgIUcfD_BwE

 

I'll have to check them just before I'm ready to replace everything, this way if the "alignment" is knocked out, I won't put too many miles on it before it gets done again. I'll mark the cams to get it close

 

I'm on the fence about that, only because I put a new rack in it May 2018, so it's got new bushing, albeit, rubber.
I don't remember how accessible they are.

 

they're not terrible.. but i'd wait till yours are actually worn.. i replaced my rack and just used the rubber bushings..

 

Cheapest I've found OE are $132 each, more than double than the most expensive ones on Rock Auto.

Are OE really that much better?

 

The balljoint design on these trucks Are problematic (look up ball joint failure on 1st gen Tacoma’s, same setup.)

aftermarkets work ok for stock height. Once your lifted they wear fairly quick and may fail without much warning.

 

You don’t want this to happen. Spending a bit more is worth it for quality

 

i was literally just reading another thread here about OE vs. AM.

never had an issue with my 2 first gen Taco's. My 2001 had 102K when I bought it and 196k when I sold it.

I'll stick with OE on the LCA/BJ

 

270k on my 01 tacoma ball joints. I replaced them with moogs. Had dangerous amounts of play within 15k miles.

 

I wouldn’t take a chance with the lower ball joint. Check the pic above. Not a situation you want to be in. Had this happen with a 2000 GS300. Scary

 

Well since you are going to be under the truck taking shit apart. Swap the o2 sensors. The upstream units can be a pain, you may have a better chance of getting to them

 

Finally gong to put the 5100's in next weekend.
What setting should I use to level it?
Paperwork with shocks show 2.1" on 4th setting and 2.5" on 5th
No AAL or shackles in rear.
06 DC 4x2

 

recommendations for replacements? Mine are seized...

 

OE is what I use. Loaded up with anti-seize. Then a bi-yearly removal and regrease. Seems to work well.

 

When you remove these bolts to dope them, does the front end need realignment again? Or can you just keep the same Mojo if careful?

 

Markjing them with paint pen on the indentations keeps it close. But ideally you’d want an alignment