Diamondback Rattle Reduction

A few people have commented on the fact that their Diamondback cover rattles. I have found that to be the case with mine as well. My first assumption was that it was something with the locking mechanism, but that didn't really make sense to me, since all those parts should be pretty tight when locked down. After a little investigation, I determined it was the cover rattling against the c-channel studs:
https://youtu.be/Zo6XsymAlEc

My simple solution that has reduced about 80% of the rattle was to caulk along the interface between the studs and cover.

I used GE Silicone "Metal" caulk that has a nice silver color to it. Available on Amazon. One tube was sufficient (CCSB, HD cover).
Caulking tips: take the panels off and clean the area a few times with isopropyl alcohol before caulking and allow to dry. Lay a thin bead, then go back over with your finger to help force the caulk into the joint. Lube your finger with windex.

Materials, including some stuff I was messing around with to quiet the front panel catch.


The infamous gappage:


The caulk job:



Once I figure out the kayak rack project, I'm going to insulate the underside of the cover to keep the bed cooler, and that will likely get the cover near silent.
That said, I love the cover. Very secure, durable and utilitarian. I do think a few more weld-inches would keep it from rattling on the first place.

 

Interesting. I'm on my 2nd HD and have never had a rattle. I'll keep this in mind for the future, should I ever buy another.

 

Yep, seems like some do, some don't. The guy I spoke to at DB hadn't heard of any making noise.

 

My SE has a slight rattle. Thank you for tracking down the likely culprit and finding a fix!

...and of course, posting that fix.

 

good deal, hope it helps.

 

My Diamondback HD rattles as well. I've tried just about everything and will give this a shot. Thanks!

 

DZ- Thanks again!! I did as described and I would say the rattle is reduced 80-90%.

I think the safety bar is the last culprit. I drove over some purposeful lumps and bumps and still got some rattle, and I am sure it’s the safety bar rattling against the front-most shock mount.

It’s metal to metal and a fairly loose fit.

I will come up with a fix and post!

 

@panicman I messed around with a couple ideas, and due to the clearances needed, none worked. One idea that I haven't explored yet is spraying underbody coating or bed liner on the safety bar and mount area, avoiding the tight clearance areas. That ought to quiet that stuff down a good bit.

 

Finally got around to it, should have did it way sooner because I didn’t have to remove the panels, just flipped them over yest and caulked 4 seams, 10min.

Today went for a drive with the back window down, incredible, almost like the window was up. For sure 80-90% gone, just the very odd rattle, from the safety bar? Gonna cut some small tubing and try to line it.

 

what are you going to insulate it with? I don't like how hot it gets under there in the summer...

 

You can use Noico insulation. Cut, peel and stick. I have it inside my doors and back wall.

 

That's awesome, thanks!

 

I was planning using a jacketed closed cell foam similar to the below linked in between the channels. Maybe soaryfoam inside the channels?? We use it from time to time at work, so I figured I'd try to get some whenever that happens.

http://www.kflexusa.com/HomePages/ProductLineHome.aspx?ID=6&prod=102&line=5

 

did this insulation help reduce the heat?

 

I am about to order diamondback for newly purchased 2018 TUNDRA! (I found a gem of a ride. Fully loaded limited with only 16k miles on it!)

QUESTION: Are the Diamondback cleats metal or plastic? I cannot find the info on their website. If they are plastic has anyone has any issues with them? Has anyone installed good boat cleats instead? If they are plastic I was thinking of installing good boat cleats and asking my LineX buddy to spray them for me. Thanks in advance!

 

I have not gotten around to this, though adding insulation will reduce heat transfer. Keep in mind, with the metal channels, there will be significant thermal bridging.

Cleats: the cleats on my DB cover are plastic.

 

The cleats are very solid. I have strapped heavy stuff up there and had no issues.

 

Agreed. Christmas trees, cabinets, furniture, camping gear on long distance trips... never a doubt.

 

The initial job only requires about 1/3 the tube, I wanted to use up more of the silver caulking and re-did the 4 full widths, but I also noticed small L brackets that could use them too. And to solve some of the safety bar rattle, I wrapped an elastic band several times around the hydraulic holder where it hits, now the bar always contacts rubber. Quietest so far!

 

Can you post a couple pictures when you have a chance?

 

There's several of these welded L brackets with unwelded gaps, not really sure if the extra caulk does anything but it only takes a few minutes to apply.

The rubber band buffers the safety bracket banging up and down. The 3M tape buffers the bracket going side ways which also clangs. The fixes don't impede moving the bracket to raise the lid as normal which is the shown position:

 

Ok, I'm following you now. My cover was constructed differently. I did as shown, but don't think it was effective. I played around with other ideas, but didn't have the clearances around the brackets. I think spraying the black metal latch with a rubberized coating in certain areas may help.