Ask the Toyota mechanic!

I didn't look at the picture closely but wonder why the bar is touching the control arm.

 

Yeah I think it's toast too.maybe part of the problem or a different problem. but my question would be. Is there. A better way to go about replacing it? As I said I had a hell of a time getting the bolt back through an lined up..

 

Looks like the rubber inside the eyelet is deteriorating and pulling apart allowing too much movement.

 

Loosening the two u-shaped clamps that hold the sway bar to the frame may make that easier giving a bit of loose movement to the sway bar. Some of it's a trial and error situation. Sometimes moving the LCA works better. Having the frame on jack stands and using a bottle or floor jack to raise the LCA may work too.

 

Is the sway bar attached when you took the picture? The only way it could be that out of position is if the LCA is set back to far or you have the truck lifted a lot. If the lift is the problem you can get drop down brackets for the sway bar.

Here is what it should look like.

 

It is in my picture as it currently sits in my driveway. It's a 3 inch lift

 

You need a sway bar drop down bracket so the link doesn't make contact.

 

Need Help. No drive, reverse only.

Background :


2013 Tundra 4.6L RWD A760e 6 speed transmission. 140K. The truck has never had any transmission issues before this. Started getting code "P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay A Malfunction" a few weeks prior but I don't see a correlation between the two systems.


Failure :


I changed the performed a drain and fill plus filter replacement. I drained about 2.5qts out of the pan. Replaced approx the same (the first time). First run and shifting was sluggish with the truck jerking into gear. Drove a mile or two (slow and steady) and it cleared up. Parked it but the next day now I had no forward gears. Reverse only.


During the maintenance I put the truck in Fluid Temp Check Mode and I am fairly certain I have the correct fluid level. Especially now that I have dropped the pan at least 6 times for troubleshooting.


Troubleshooting so far :


After the first "test run" I pulled codes P0761 and P2714 and P2757. All solenoid related codes. I then drained the pan a second time and pulled all 9 solenoids and bench tested with 12V. All actuated properly. All Ohm'd out to spec. I disassembled the valve body, cleaned and rebuilt.



No change, still only have Reverse. No forward gears. There was no shrapnel in the pan that would point to mechanical failure. I still suspect pressure or electrical/electronic related but am at a loss as how to proceed.

 

What are you using to pull codes? Do you have techstream?

 

There is absolutely zero relationship between the steering wheel being centered and alignment not correct. Centering the wheel is a simple toe adjustment. Whomever did the alignment was simply not careful when the toe was set, usually the last adjustment to be made. I would agree that if the mechanic did not center the wheel, then I would question his ability and/or attention to detail.

 

Thanks for your input. A centered steering wheel is part of your alignment and it's the last adjustment made after caster and camber adjustment. When the customer drivers their vehicle after an alignment the first thing they will notice is if the steering wheel is off centered. You could do an alignment with the steering wheel off 25° the tires wouldn't wear but would this qualify as a good alignment? A correctly adjusted steering wheel is always the final step in a properly aligned vehicle.

 

I totally agree. As I had pointed out, the mechanic was not very careful, leading me to question whether the alignment was done to specification. I was just trying to say that just because the wheel is not centered, it has nothing to do with all the caster, camber, and toe being out of spec. It is a visual thing. And, for the record, It makes me crazy to drive a vehicle with a wheel that is not centered.

 

Dually noted.

 

I have used both a generic code reader and Tech stream. Both pull the same codes.

 

I'll check infostream and get back to you.

 

Ok some questions. What fluid did you use for the drain and fill? Did you put the transmission in fluid detection mode when setting the transmission level? Did you do a trans memory reset after removing the valve body and solenoids?

 

Fluid type - WS. If by " fluid detection mode" you mean the procedure were pins 4&13 are jumpered out and I wait until the fluid temp is at temperature? Indicated by the "D" staying solidly lit. Then yes I did that. I have tried to reset the memory. But can't get my bootleg Techstream to do it yet. However the battery has been unplugged for more than 48hrs at a time.

 

Ok figured out how to reset trans memory with Techstream. Unfortunately still no change.

 

I'll look further.

 

Check the data stream on techstream and make sure that the switch shift (D range) is displaying on when the truck is in gear.

 

It is NOT "on" in any of the Data Files. Diagnosis?

Note : I have gone down this troubleshooting list from the Service Repair Manual. I ruled out the items checked off. The transmission is now out of the vehicle so I can check the remaining 2 items. Or replace the trans, which is begrudgingly where I am at currently.

 

And I don't think I've said it yet but THANK YOU very much for all the help.

 

I do not plan on re installing the passenger seat in the forseeable future after removing it to install sound deadener. Removing the seat caused the airbag dash light, and the weight sensor light to come on. I m assuming the airbags are disabled. Is there anything, besides the obvious, I can do to turn the dash lights off, and get airbags working again, something that would possibly fool the computer into thinking the passenger seat is plugged in?

 

If the range selector switch (PRNDL switch) should display ON.

The two remaining items on your list are the torque converter and the rear planetary gear set. I would have a hard time believing that those are the issues. You had the pan down and didn't find any debris in the pan. It's very rare for the Tundra transmissions to fail.

 

I agree with you that it is unlikely that the torque converter or any of the gears are gone. I still see no signs of shrapnel in the pan or the housing now that I have it out of the truck. When the trans was still installed I had my son shift through the range selector while I was underneath the truck with the pan off. It actuated through all position in sync with the PRNDL. Also I can turn the input shaft by hand and the output shaft turns with it. I did this in every gear and they all turn, except neutral of course. This should mean that all the gears are working.

 

Turning the input shaft and having a result of the output shaft is turning isn't an indication that everything is OK. The auto is not like a manual. The auto uses planetary gear sets and one member is is held with clutches and or bands hydraulically so the pump has to be working and engine running. At this point I would probably take the transmission in to a transmission rebuilt shop. They can hook it up to a tester that spins the torque converter and can read pressures to make sure the tranny is working properly

 

My expansion valve is clogged and needs replaced on my 2011 Tundra SR5 TRD DC. I’m very mechanically inclined but have never done this job before. Approx How long should it take to swap out and anything I need to look out for or any tricks to make the job quicker. Any info is greatly appreciated

 

How do you plan on recharging the system?

 

With my buddies a/c recharge and recovery machine

 

Hey @LOTSOFTOYS question for you.

Regarding ebrake light on dash

It will come on at odd times, not while driving !
Parked on incline/decline
Parked on flat ground or garage

Sometime Its on, I shut truck off, restart and it goes off.

Read that possibly the fluid is low. Couple weeks ago I went out and bought some and added a little and when I started the truck it went off.
Not sure if it was really low, couldnt tell since its almost clear.

Earlier this week it was on after sitting in the driveway. Shut off, restarted and it went out.

Brakes actually feel fine, pedal is firm and doesnt go to the floor

Truck has about 42,700 miles on it.

I would think that if the fluid is low that it would be leaking somewhere. Not finding any proof of that either.

Anything I should look at specifically or let the shop take a look?

Thanks - I appreciate your help !!!