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U Joint recommendations

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by FirstGenVol, Mar 4, 2019.

  1. Mar 4, 2019 at 9:09 AM
    #1
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    I have a failing U joint and I'm shopping for replacement parts. The Toyota Stealership just quoted me around $450 for all 4(not including labor). I usually try to go OEM but that's insane.

    Are there are particular aftermarket brands I should shoot for? The shop I'm planning to take it to typically uses Moog greasable and non-greasable. Another member said he thought Moog failed and "ruined his drive shaft".

    Suggestions would be appreciated.

    Edit- OEM part #'s are 04371-35061 and 04371-0C010. It appears they are made by a company called Febest...?
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2019
  2. Mar 4, 2019 at 11:58 AM
    #2
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    $71 and $74 for the part numbers you listed at Toyota parts deal online. I don't pay dealership mark-up, but I do suggest using OEM. My understanding is OEM u-joints can go for 200k. Seems a small investment in the long run vs rebranded China bearings from Napa or Autozone.
     
  3. Mar 4, 2019 at 12:05 PM
    #3
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Dana Spicer if they're available. Never had much luck with Moog myself.
     
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  4. Mar 4, 2019 at 12:09 PM
    #4
    growit

    growit New Member

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    I just replaced mine on a 2006 Dblc. Spicer/Dana are the OEM brand. Got them from Rock Auto. They were the exact same part, non greasable type.
     
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  5. Mar 4, 2019 at 12:27 PM
    #5
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Here are the OEM parts $. You’ll need to confirm with your VIN# as there are a few variations in these parts.

    Back when I was hot on preventatively replacing the u-joints, the heavy truck service shop that was going to do the work (u-joints only/I remove and bring in) guy said he was going to use Spicers. You can find the odd ball size (2 of them on Cardan) on Amazon. You’ll need to do your homework on those. You’ll need to find that greaseable ball and spring too.

    I delayed the mission as I was really super busy hand modeling commercials for Christmas. Gladly, it worked out for the best as when I had time and replaced the carrier bearing I was having a hard time with the bolts on the end yolks trying to remove the entire shaft. Ended up replacing the carrier bearing from under the truck by splitting the Cardan in half.

    Might be best to tell the shop thats doing the work to find the joints parts you want and have them buy them. Many shops aren’t real keen on doing these Cardans. The stealer said no way. My long time shop was hesitant and didn’t want to tie up their rack for the day. They were going to remove it and send it to the same heavy truck place mentioned above.

    In the end, I’ll just keep the zerks loaded with grease and replace the entire shaft (with a solid one) when it blows which is the general consensus of what most people do from my research. You have some navigation to do as one of your joints is going bad. The decision is yours to make, but sounds better to just go with a new shaft.


    upload_2019-3-4_15-4-7.jpg
     
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  6. Mar 4, 2019 at 1:36 PM
    #6
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    I was wrong. I called the shop back and they use Spicers. He said most of the OEM U Joints are really made by Spicer. He recommends the non-greasable.

    Quoted me $200-250 to replace all 4 U joints, install carrier bearing, new ball/spring thing, and rebalance shaft. That's if I remove the driveshaft myself and bring it to them. +$75 if I just drop the truck off.
     
  7. Mar 4, 2019 at 1:41 PM
    #7
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    That's not a bad price, joints are around 20/piece, carrier bearing is $75ish if I remember.

    Sealed is the way to go if you're not going off-road. The Spicers are tripled sealed and will last a long time.
     
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  8. Mar 4, 2019 at 1:50 PM
    #8
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    I purchased the carrier bearing separately. So the price doesn't include that part. But still, I feel it's a reasonable price. I could probably figure it out but it honestly looks like a job I won't enjoy.
     
  9. Mar 4, 2019 at 2:12 PM
    #9
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Pay them the $75 to do it!!!
     
  10. Mar 4, 2019 at 2:38 PM
    #10
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] Brake Czar

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    Yep. I agree. Apparently you can't just unbolt the drive shaft without properly marking it.

    I'll pay the pros on this one.
     
  11. Mar 4, 2019 at 2:42 PM
    #11
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    It's easy to remove, a white grease pencil or maybe some of the wife's nail polish, make a mark on each side of the flange and pull the bolts. Just make sure it doesn't fall on your melon.
     
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  12. Mar 4, 2019 at 2:51 PM
    #12
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    For future reference, on the yoke ends where the one end ties into the rear diff and the other end that ties into to transfer case: Are those bolts at each flange screwed into the yolk and need to be unscrewed?

    In other words, I had those nuts removed off the bolt threads but could not crack the yoke from flange. Felt like the bolts were threaded in through the yolk. Tried cracking with a slight hammer tap, but no go. Tried loosening the bolts and no go.

    This was after PB Blasting everything for weeks ahead of time. The double cardan cracked open thankfully, but the ends did not.
     
  13. Mar 4, 2019 at 3:05 PM
    #13
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    This is next on my list. I just went on a service call to, of all places, Amarillo clutch and driveshaft. I replaced a VFD for them after they thought they would need a new driveshaft lathe. They were so impressed they said they'd hook me up with some driveshaft work.
     
  14. Mar 4, 2019 at 4:54 PM
    #14
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    They are just through bolted no threading on the flanges. It's possible the shaft rotated just enough to bind on the bolts. It did take a little persuasion to get a couple of them out.
     
  15. Mar 10, 2019 at 1:50 PM
    #15
    Somemedic

    Somemedic New Member

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    I bought a junkyard shaft that was in better condition than my original and bought the joints from Advance auto. Took them all over to the local drive shaft outfit and left it there for 3 weeks. I was told I would get it back after 1 but when I went back to pick it up they said it would be another day or so.

    My schedule didnt allow for me to get it then.

    I also went on vacation for a week. So be it.

    When I finally got it back they didnt touch the dbbl Cardin saying it was fine... sure it is jerky. I took the new set up and installed it back at the fire station without issue.

    Lance's Driveshaft, Portage IN
     
  16. Jun 23, 2020 at 1:58 PM
    #16
    TurtleWrench

    TurtleWrench New Member

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    Hey guys I need some help.
    I am going replace my center bearing and the 4 u-joints but 2 are different with no outside 'locking clips"
    My question , is this normal? and can you use a ball joint press to remove both of these types.

    I was told I need
    5-1350-1X Dana Spicer
    for the u-joints closest to the center bearing and
    Neapco 1-1612 Toyota U-Joint Kit
    for the u-joints at rear axle and front of the the driveshaft near the transfercase.

    Can someone confirm above parts would work :fingerscrossed:

    I just want to make sure before I order the parts, and am little concerned how the u-joints without the clips come out.

    Thank you much in advance.

    Here is what mine look like now
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2020
  17. Jun 23, 2020 at 4:14 PM
    #17
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    That's the double cardan joint, your best bet will be to take it to a heavy truck shop and let them handle it because it apparently is not a terribly easy thing to replace.
     
  18. Jun 23, 2020 at 4:25 PM
    #18
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    This!

    I priced a local Heavy Truck Service Center and they can do it for a good price. Not much more than me buying all the parts. There is a special ball and spring inside the Double Cardan. I’ve read nightmares of people trying to tackle this job and they all say let a pro do it.
     
  19. Jun 23, 2020 at 4:29 PM
    #19
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Maybe try greasing the zerks if your joints are not acting funny. Clean up all the cack first and then pump the 8 zerks with Moly-B grease. Your front 2 zerks on the 4wd shaft require a special tip that you can make yourself. Check my build page for how it looks.
     
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  20. Jun 23, 2020 at 6:50 PM
    #20
    lsaami

    lsaami Let ‘er buck

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    As others have said, spicer u joints are the best, and are OEM on most brands.
     
  21. Jun 23, 2020 at 8:04 PM
    #21
    TurtleWrench

    TurtleWrench New Member

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    2 are Spicer, I am trying to confirm are those the right u joints (2 different types) to order .
    That site said they dont have the "inside locking clips type" in Spicer currently for the outer ends of the drive shaft , in my photos you can see they are different.
     
  22. Jun 23, 2020 at 8:10 PM
    #22
    TurtleWrench

    TurtleWrench New Member

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    If i can confirm the right u joints to buy I think I will pull the shaft and bring the new center bearing (Spicer) and hopefully these 4 u joints the website told me that would work are correct but I wanted to confirm with someone who would know on here before i ordered.

    Local drive-line shop charges 75$ an hour and 50$ per shaft to balance.

    How many hours would you think a shop would charge?
     
  23. Jun 24, 2020 at 4:01 AM
    #23
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    I’d just let the shop buy all the Spicer U-Joints if they are capable. I don’t have all the part numbers anymore from back when I researched these and finally decided to let a Shop do the work. Basically, I couldn’t get both the driveshaft tail pieces off when doing my Carrier Bearing so I just did the CB. My joints were/are still good, but was going to do them as prevent maintenance. I’ve been greasing them pretty regularly after them not having been done in many years. They weren’t as crusty looking as yours look.

    IIRC the shop quoted me $260 for the whole deal Parts and Labor. Not bad considering the parts were close to $100 my cost for the same Spicer units they were using.

    The thing was I had to remove (and couldn’t) and bring it up there, then pick it up the next day and reinstall. In retrospect, glad to have left them alone as they are still problem free.
     
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  24. Jun 24, 2020 at 4:09 AM
    #24
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Those other u-joints are Koyo IIRC now that my mammories are jogged. The Truck Shop was going to Special Order those for me. This is a complicated driveshaft. So much so, the stealership doesn’t do them.
     

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