Archery question

So I've always shot my arrows about an inch past my bow/finger. When I first got into archery, I saw the pics of guys getting their fingers sliced by broadheads. Scared the shit out of me, so kept my arrows an inch or so longer, so at full draw, they are about an inch forward of my finger, not including the tip. I can shoot 4" groups at 50 yards, 1" groups inside 30. I'm not great, but I don't think it affects my shooting. I'm shooting 65 lbs with a 340 spine arrow.

Recently while at the range, a friend suggested shortening my arrows to what he believed was "proper length" because it would mean the arrow would have less flex and according to him, make less noise.

Just curious if anyone has any input on this?

 

For some reason I can't picture it. My grip rests between my thumb and index finger. Then I kind of curl my fingers down so, my thumb is parallel with the bow and fingers are out of the way.

 

I grip it with pointing finger and middle finger tight around grip. Ring and pinky finger somewhat flared out off the grip. Thumb is secure around the grip frame. I do not lift my pointing finger, so as to avoid being near my broadhead.

But question more is whether an inch longer of an arrow makes any difference in flex or sound??? I've never heard of this and I get the sense my friend is trying to impart his "knowledge" on me....(smh)

 

I am sure a longer arrow will flex more but I don't think it would be more inaccurate. That would mean taller people are inherently more inaccurate and I find that hard to believe.

 

Call Performance Archery in San Diego and ask for Bob, the owner, he’ll set you up correctly. He’s one of the best bow hunters in the country, and maybe, the world. Phone: 1-858-653-5945. Be safe.

 

Yeah, I agree with this. That would mean anyone with a longer draw would be more inaccurate. You could easily test it by getting some shorter arrows cut and compare your groups, but even that is less than scientific. Your bow is sighted in with your existing arrows, changing the mass of your arrows would most likely have an impact on your grouping.

Your grouping now seems pretty good to me. If anything having a little extra weight on the arrow could help with penetration. I wouldn't change what you're doing.

 

If your worried about flex, get a stiffer spine. Some flex is good and natural.
If you’re already at 340, I’d say your good. There are calculations for arrow length as it relates to draw length and draw weight.
I shoot CX Maxima Red. Which has a stiffer spine in the middle of the arrow, as opposed to the whole shaft. Good combo allowing for more stiffness, but the little flex that is natural.

Regarding the noise; if you want to quiet down the arrow (due to sound of fletchings), check out Fusion II vanes.
If however you’re making more noise because your arrows are tracking off (I.e., they appear to hit the target at an angle, or you can see them fly at a slight angle in flight), then I would say you need to get a paper tune at your local bow shop.

All said, if your arrow speed (not the bow’s IBO) is above 270ish and you’re grouping 4”at 50 yds, I’d roll with it. Unless you have a super loud bow (which is a separate issue), those groups and set up you’ve described will kill just about anything you could want.

 

I'm no expert but that doesn't make sense to me. Your set up sounds pretty good, and you're shooting good groups.

 

If your arrow is properly spined it makes no difference.

 

I guess I should have added, I'm shooting a Prime Logic at 65 lbs, spine is 340. Paper tuned at Riverside Archery right before the quarantine. Thanks for the refer to Performance - two of hunting buddies who live in/near SD go there and I'd love to check it out, but RA is far enough for me! Only real upgrade I'll be looking at is arrows. I just shoot the BP Blackout X5 envy. Cheap arrow, but first ones I got a couple years ago and I still have a dozen brand new ones all cut and ready to go. I'm sure my groups might be a little tighter at distance with FMJ's or better quality arrows, but these will have to work for at least one more season before I cut them down and give to my kid, who also has two dozen arrows right now!

 

I second this. The owner of my bow shop (First Flight Archery in Raleigh, NC-- great spot) also told me to shoot heavier broadheads (125 gr.) to help accuracy at longer distance.

 

7'0" tall and have a 35" draw length. I shoot the Prostar that Matthews made for Shaq. 48" axle to axle. I'm no Cam Hanes or John Dudley, but there is no increased inaccuracy with a longer draw. Granted my bow is quite tall and is quite forgiving as a result. Now, if you want to talk about swining a golf club that's a different story.

 

Switch to mechanical broadheads

 

I use both. rage hyperdermics and montecs. i'll be switching the G5's to the M3s, solid blade. less whistle when they fly. I carry both in my quiver. the rages are my first choice.