Reverse Yota lean?

I still have to get an alignment but it’s been a couple hundred miles and a few weeks. I think things have settled.

5100s on the third notch and wheelers progressive aal with no factory overload.

2006 double cab, camper top and wood drawer system.

Before the lift hub to fender measured 21” on both sides in the rear. Front was at 20 1/4” left and 20” right.

After lift. Rear is at 22 1/4” left and 21 1/2” right. Front is now at 22” left and 21 1/2” right.

What could be accounting for my reverse yota lean? Isn’t typically the driver side lower. The top strut mount has less threads exposed on the driver side, that spring is stiffer/taller right?

Along with figuring out this slight lean I probably want to get a little bit more out of the rear to account for the weight of the cap and drawers. Does the factory overload actually function with the wheelers aal? Or would it just act as a 1/2in block, if that’s the case then I’ll just throw on 1/2in blocks.

 

I don't know anything about your issue, but that is quite a pretty truck.

 

What's the measurements when you're sitting in it?

 

Agreed on all accounts @jcrob33. I'm sure one of the local suspension gurus will be along shortly. Pretty truck.

 

what are you trying to say...

 

Thanks folks, got some updates coming soon.

 

I always loved the shape of the DCs from the end of the cab to the front bumper. Good clean body lines from the side profile.

End of cab to the front bumler always reminded me of "video game old trucks" the general shape kinda.

 

Beautiful truck!

 

The overload will still function with the AAL in there.

 

Actually the overload spring would be a much better solve than 1/2" blocks. Above and beyond adding the thickness of the height back in (1/2"), they will support your leaf pack much better overall than a pair of blocks when loaded and especially when heavily loaded or over loaded. As the weight forces the arch of the springs to flatten out so grows the contact area of the overload. This of course is in theory and in practice the overload doesn't make great contact with the leaf pack until you're well into negative arch generally. It is however a better (and cheaper) alternative for you vs. blocks in that all you need to reinstall them on the wheeler's pack would be a new/longer center pin assuming you're is already trimmed to short to add it back in.

By the way, did you measure your lean with a full tank of fuel? Truck loaded how you want? Driver's weight in driver's seat? Add that stuff up and you may just be even Steven.

 

Do these jeans make my butt look big?

 

Yep full tank, but not with the extra 220lbs of me in driver seat. It’s one of those things that doesn’t seem to effect anything and no one will ever notice it. But you notice it, and that’s all that matters. Haha

I’ll just have to go pick up a longer pin at the hardware store. Maybe with the overloads on the lean may be less.

 

A little rise in driver isn't bad, an inch seems like quite a bit if you measured with a full tank. Curious if the front coilover assemblies are swapped right to left. If you used Toyota coils you can look for paint marks and try to identify which one belongs on which side.

 

I though of this, the driver side is red and tan/orangeish. The passenger is two tan/orangeish marks. I think I have them right.

The top nut in the driver size also did not screw in nearly as much. I’ll take a photo of this, but I figured it was due to the stiffer driver side spring.

 

Are those 255/80s or 285/70s?

 

255/80r17

 

Here’s what I meant by the top nuts. They are both torqued to spec but as you can see the passenger side is showing 1/4” more thread. I just figured that this was because of the stiffer driver side spring but now I’m second guessing.

 

Very nice. I've got the same truck, same color, doing the same build!!

 

Have fun, they sure are great trucks.

 

I don't know either. Just came to comment. Nice truck and I like the rod holders.

 

Very nice looking truck

 

Thanks guys!the rod holder gets a lot of use.

 

That won't make a lick of difference once the springs are suspending the truck - only when totally unloaded.

I like the rod holders! That is another reason to rack my canopy I suppose. I've some clamps on the underside of my canopy ceiling that I use to secure mine but they're always broken down for transport - I love the idea of pulling them out and getting after it. Are those just 3" PVC?

 

That makes too much sense. You’re right, now that I think of it, it wouldn’t effect it.

The rod holder is made by Denver outfitters. The tubes are aluminum actually.

 

I was looking at the TRXSTLE version as well. Can't fit it with the RTT. I'm tired of braking them down and setting up, such a pain in the ass on a fishing trip.
https://www.trxstle.com

 

it’s a cool concept, and pretty versatile it seems. I’ve been very happy with my rod vault though. It’s pretty bullet proof, I can throw kayaks up top and throw straps over everything. Rod vault doesn’t budge. I do wish the lid didn’t open up though, I’m 6’3” and it’s still a reach to open and close it.

 

Well I threw overload leafs back on. Just had to pick up a 3/8 bolt and do a quick grind job.



Got dark before I could get a photo of the truck but it leveled things out! Measuring hub to fender the front is sitting at 22” left and 21 3/4” right. Rear is now at 23” left and 22 3/4” right. With me in the truck it’s leveled, even with the big dinner I ate.

The factory overloads are actually taller than 1/2” like everyone seems to state it’s actually closer to an inch.

Wish I would have left them on in the first place.