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2013 5.7 Stalling repeatedly. Looking for help please?

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by MannyM, May 29, 2020.

  1. May 29, 2020 at 6:10 PM
    #1
    MannyM

    MannyM [OP] New Member

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    Hi Tundra Folks.

    New to forum - but not to wrenches.
    I am a motorcycle wrench & builder who has Toyota'd for decades because I want to work on bikes... not my Toyotas.

    2013 Tundra Limited (5.7L). 120,000 kms. Has had nothing other than tires/brakes/oil through its life. Has suddenly started stalling and falling flat on its face. Very typical no fuel feel. Coughs out and dies. Push it to the floor and continues to cough and skip and stall out. Pull over... restart and its good for another few Kilometres. Even went for a good hard 10 Kilometre rip and flogged it and it was fine. 5000 RPM and pulling fine. Then shut it off. Start it up and it will idle out to stall in 30 seconds or may idle for 2 minutes and then start to drop out.

    No check engine light. Simple scanner shows P1603 (Engine Stall History) and P1605 (Knock Control CPU)...

    No vacuum leaks apparent. I verified fuel pressure regulator on rail (relieves ~ 50 psi air). I assumed a failing fuel pump or plugging filter (truck has sat a lot over past 2 months) and dropped the tank and installed a new pump assembly ($800 Canadian)... Nothing changed.

    Engine starts fine. After 30 seconds - 2 minutes it begins to stumble and drop to 500-600 RPM and missing. Eventually will stall flat within a few minutes. If I stab the pedal, the RPM will drop to 200-300 RPM and just cough out. Then it will restart straight away. Idle never feels perfectly clean like it always has... it fells like it misses on a cylinder ever few seconds.

    I have inspected the MAF sensor and cleaned the throttle body (it was squeaky clean). Newish air filter. Fuel pressure appears plentiful when removing line after engine off and it sprays 6-8 feet (do not have pressure fuel pressure tester).

    I am wondering if there are any folks who could point me to any known issues ?

    Thanks in advance.

    HERE IS A LINK TO A VIDEO OF WHAT IS OCCURRING:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/abqelwt6t9jg4hi/IMG_0846.MOV?dl=0

    HERE IS LINK TO SCREEN RECORD OF LIVE DATA WHEN STALLING (cheap reader not able to see deeper Toyota specific outputs):

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/6d0verr2jz64b3j/RPReplay_Final1590788812.MP4?dl=0
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
  2. May 30, 2020 at 5:55 AM
    #2
    Lovetrucks

    Lovetrucks Member

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    Welcome from Ontario Canada , I was going to say that there’s a fuel pump recall but you stated that you changed it . It almost sounds like it’s flooding . Someone will chime in soon that will have a better idea than me .
     
    MannyM[OP] likes this.
  3. May 30, 2020 at 12:43 PM
    #3
    Lovetrucks

    Lovetrucks Member

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    Free bump
     
  4. Jun 1, 2020 at 6:41 PM
    #4
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

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    There is a few things you can check...
    The easiest would be to fill up the tank higher than half a tank, in addition to this go to a higher octane like 89. My reasoning is my fuel sender is bad and I run out of gas at a quarter tank, so you may be running out of gas, except your needle isn't measuring correctly. The second is the possibility of bad gas, and I've had my truck stall out on bad Navy base gas so I evaded that all together unless it was 89 or higher...

    Check your battery, ensure its not dying overnight, I do have similar symptoms like this where it hesitates and I turn off all accessories as to minimize the power draw on the battery and have it run for approximately 30 minutes giving it a little gas every now and then and let it get up to temperature.

    I'm not a tech or anything, but based on your live data it looks like you may be running lean, meaning there may be an air leak somewhere, therefore you're drowning out the engine with fuel...... Here is a helpful video for you to troubleshoot...
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIJdCZgEiys
     
    Filthyphil likes this.
  5. Jun 1, 2020 at 7:48 PM
    #5
    snivilous

    snivilous snivspeedshop.com

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    I didn't look at what OP shared, but lean means it's not getting enough fuel (higher number than 14.7 for an afr reading), which would coincide with what sounds like no fuel if that is correct.

    Sounds like you aren't getting fuel as you said. My first thing would be next time it dies, pull over and keep it turned on and climb under it and listen if you can hear the fuel pump. I have two theories, first being an electrical issue and second being shit in the fuel system. I would check connections and the harness to the pump, even going so far as manually wiring the pump to a battery temporarily. If that doesn't work, I would get a pressure gauge and get the pump to run and have it go non-stop with the truck off and see if the pressure dips. Maybe there is something caught in a line and when you turn the truck off and the pump turns off it settles and then restarting gets fuel free to flow again? With the pump running and monitoring pressure you could at least isolate if it's a pressure/flow issue (assuming it isn't a wire coming loose when you hit a bump perfectly as previously stated). I'd also check your fuses and relays, the other day I had a mod that was tapped into the fuse box and the fuse adapter somehow slowly slipped out and it'd be fine and always turn on good, but somehow the perfect little vibration would disconnect the power and my gauge would turn off.
     
  6. Jun 1, 2020 at 8:07 PM
    #6
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

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    distracted while typing, and rammed 2 thoughts together, my bad... I meant just lean and not getting enough fuel therefore starving the engine of fuel and stalling..
     
  7. Jun 1, 2020 at 9:24 PM
    #7
    speckmon

    speckmon Must. Have. Pow.

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    mine does the same thing from time to time, but when i'm driving, which is scary. Getting rid of it.
     
  8. Jun 2, 2020 at 12:57 AM
    #8
    shawn474

    shawn474 Lego connoisseur

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    A couple alternative things to look at:
    1. I seem to recall someone on here awhile back we had a similar issue after installing a cai......do you have one? If so, check the connections. If there is a air leak it can cause the same type of symptoms that you’re describing.

    2. I had a n old Honda Accord that would die on the highway as I was driving. Just literally turn off and all gauges would zero out. Would have to turn the key off and back on again while coasting and would correct. It turned out to be the ignition coil - replaces it myself and fixed the problem for good. Not sure if it could be something like that but might be worth a check
     
  9. Aug 30, 2020 at 8:40 AM
    #9
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

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    If that were the case you would have issues pulling the key out of the ignition when you turned it off. My starter didn't alert me to anything until it died. Best way I could explain it is that it was almost like a dying battery, it started shutting systems off one at a time idling lower and lower until it stalled and it wouldn't come back on. No way to beat it btw its cocooned, best way to describe it. Your case may be battery related since the heat tends to kill batteries faster...
     
  10. Sep 8, 2020 at 10:26 PM
    #10
    zackbremer

    zackbremer New Member

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    could also be the MAF sensor...when mine was dirty, it would od the same thing run for 2-4 secs then die..quick cheap fix
     
  11. Mar 4, 2021 at 7:25 PM
    #11
    Johnny2Slow

    Johnny2Slow New Member

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    Had a similar problem. After several trips to my local mechanic (replaced fuel pump and then fuel pump ECU), I finally took my Tundra to the dealer. 5 hours of diagnostic time and they finally traced the issue to a faulty power steering sensor.
     
  12. Mar 5, 2021 at 8:12 PM
    #12
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

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    I was just going to mention that another member just had his fuel pump replaced when the pump module was bad... the thread is recent I think it had caused a stall or no start.
     
  13. Apr 25, 2022 at 3:36 PM
    #13
    Jzaleski

    Jzaleski New Member

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    I see the latest reply is March 4th, 2021. Maybe someone will see this post.

    Same issue with my 2013 Tundra: would be driving, and then no rhyme or reason just stalled. Would coast in neutral and then turn key and restarted no issue… at first.

    Run only 93 octane fuel; always keep full or near full; no debris or riding through soot or dust; goes to dealer every 3-5k, whether it needs it or not. Total of 95,000 miles.

    So, last time I took to dealer (2 weeks ago) I read them some of the posts on this thread and others I found on YouTube. They reviewed all, including harness to tank. No codes thrown by ECU. Found fuel pump was faulty; replaced it. Ok. Thinking this is it… until yesterday: began shutting down again, but this time doing something very odd: upon attempting to restart (without first turning off), receive an extended cranking attempt which persists even AFTER I let go of the key. Need to turn key FULLY OFF, and then it will allow me to start it up again.

    So, went from one very annoying problem to two annoying problems. No resolution yet. Just called dealer, they are seeing it tomorrow. I’m sure they will keep it 4-5 days and tell me they could find nothing, charge me $1000 for the privilege of guessing by replacing a battery or fuel pump and then give it back to me.

    Am reaching the point of abandoning the vehicle and buying a new / different brand. Do not have time to work on vehicle (am a healthcare professional and time is not on my side). Any thoughts are welcome. I frequently bring my iPad to the dealer and walk them through the threads here as a starting point. I take care of patients, not so much mechanical hardware.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2022
  14. Apr 25, 2022 at 4:01 PM
    #14
    shawn474

    shawn474 Lego connoisseur

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    This sounds eerily similar to the ignition switch on a 96 accord that I had - replaced it and never happened again. But not sure that’s possible on these trucks,
     
  15. Apr 26, 2022 at 4:37 AM
    #15
    Ricos

    Ricos New Member

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    I had the same kind of problem, 12v supply to the fuel control module in the left rear chassis,but when connecting the fuel pump to it,the 12v disappeared, my solution was applying 12v via a switch to the fuel pump instead of buying a newfuelpump control module.
     
  16. Apr 26, 2022 at 8:32 AM
    #16
    audiowize

    audiowize New Member

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    One could also buy a used fuel pump control module from a junkyard. On many other Toyota/Lexus models these live inside the vehicle, so they stay cleaner and don't get as nasty as they do on a Tundra.
     
  17. Apr 26, 2022 at 3:26 PM
    #17
    Jzaleski

    Jzaleski New Member

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    Thanks for the replies.

    Update: Toyota was able to confirm and recreate the problem as being in the fuel pump ECU. The actual mechanism was when the ECU came up to temperature, it would cut off the fuel flow through the pump. Toyota mechanic was able to reproduce and recreate the finding at will. So, am having the ECU replaced.

    It would seem to me that, given this finding is experienced by quite a few, that a redesign might be in order, and to improve accessibility by placing the unit away from the tank, as referenced in reply above.
     
    Dalandshark and Ricos like this.
  18. May 15, 2022 at 4:06 PM
    #18
    23Dragon

    23Dragon New Member

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    Did you solve the problem with replacing the ECU
     
  19. May 15, 2022 at 4:19 PM
    #19
    Jzaleski

    Jzaleski New Member

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    Yes. ECU did the trick.
     
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  20. May 19, 2022 at 11:28 PM
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    23Dragon

    23Dragon New Member

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    Just want to give a big thank you to this blog! This fixed my truck too!! It is soon!! But right away not one issue after a couple test drives. I will give an update if things change. The fuel pumps computer is in a terrible spot on the inside of the chassis behind the rear driver side wheel!!!
    89571-34070 part number
     
  21. Jul 14, 2022 at 6:43 AM
    #21
    sdunlimited

    sdunlimited New Member

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    I've got the same/similar issue with my 2011 5.7L with 255k miles. Cranks, starts and runs fine for about 1 minute then audibly stumbles, falls on it's face attempting to stall. You can keep it somewhat alive for a little bit by mashing the gas repeatedly but it eventually dies.
    I'm suspecting it's the fuel pump ECU and ordered a used Lexus unit 89571-34070 part number. Also ordered a new MAF just in case since they're cheap and I don't know when mine was last replaced.

    Can anyone provide detailed instructions for testing the fuel pump ECU? Or how to bypass it to test if the fuel pump is OK? TIA if you can!
     
  22. Jul 14, 2022 at 7:06 AM
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    texasrho83

    texasrho83 DGAF#1

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    Can you not just pull a fuel line coming from the pump and turn ignition to accessory mode?
     
  23. Jul 18, 2022 at 9:44 AM
    #23
    sdunlimited

    sdunlimited New Member

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    Chalk up another fix by replacing the Fuel Pump Control Module. I ordered a used Lexus part that had the same part number but was appended with an "-A". Seems to work fine. Once installed the truck fired up and runs normally again. I did put a new MAF in a couple days ago but the problem still persisted.
    I also tried cracking open the old unit to see if there was an obvious failure point. I couldn't see anything. It's tough trying to pry the board up without wrecking it. The pins hold one end in pretty good. There was nothing I could see that should a burnt piece, corrosion or anything like that. Maybe it was just "time" for it to go?
    Regardless, it's back on the road running normally. I'm glad there were a few threads out there with people discussing similar issues because this was an odd one. No codes, no lights, no issue starting over and over again but just that random fall-on-it's-face after about a minute repeatedly.
    If you've got these symptoms, definitely consider replacing this box that sits inside the frame rail behind the rear drivers side wheel. 12mm bolt in the wheel well removes the bracket. Pry the gray plastic clip up until it snaps over the piece on the module that's stopping it. Once the clips is at a 45ish degree angle, pry it further back toward the module until it stops - this kicks the plug out enough so you can easily remove it. Two philips head screws hold the mounting bracket to the module. The Lexus bracket won't work so you'll need to reuse the old one if you go with a Lexus module. It's a very easy replacement with easy access that a novice can do with the bare minimum of tools.
     
  24. Jul 26, 2023 at 4:39 PM
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    SJS

    SJS New Member

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    I have a 2013 Toyota Tundra 5.7L V8 126,000miles. Was running great until today. It stalled after stopping at a light. No warning. Then restarted fine but after I began to drive it started losing power and stalled with a check engine light on this time. I was able to get to a spot to park after restating it 4 times. I ran a Diagnostic test with codes P1603, P1604, and P1605 coming up. I checked the ECM unplugged it and put it back in. I was able to drive home the rest of the way with no issues. I checked all wires and possible disconnections. Nothing. After reading many posts it’s possible it may be the secondary air injection pump. They have been known to fail on years 2000 - 2013. Unfortunately, Toyota is not compensating for it. This is an idea. I’ll post back after I replace them to say whether it fixed the problem or not. I found a set on EBay for $112.
    Update: The problem was the FCM (Fuel Control Module). After replacing it the problem was solved. I found one Amazon (aftermarket brand-less expensive). It worked fine.
    One thing to note, there wasn’t any codes to show this as the problem.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2023
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