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Oil Change Issue

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Major, Dec 30, 2019.

  1. Feb 24, 2020 at 12:57 PM
    #121
    tlpru

    tlpru New Member

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    no...………….. its way cheaper
     
  2. Feb 24, 2020 at 1:06 PM
    #122
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    If you're talking about the free plastic drain spigot, yep, no argument here. No question that it's cheaper than buying the drain tube tool. Congrats to @NCTundra1980 on figuring out a way to use the free drain spigot without having oil running off your elbow and down into your arm pit. :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2020
    NCTundra1980 likes this.
  3. Feb 24, 2020 at 1:10 PM
    #123
    tlpru

    tlpru New Member

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    no was taking about the aluminum housing.
     
  4. Feb 24, 2020 at 1:19 PM
    #124
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    You quoted the wrong guy/post. I paid like $21 for the Toyota's cast aluminum one over two years ago. I do not suffer from MMTS syndrome. :D

    For the guy who drives only on paved roads, it seems like nuclear overkill to pay 5X more for a machined billet filter housing when Toyota's cast aluminum version does the job. If you're hanging wheels in the air while rock climbing, that billet oil filter housing would be one less thing to worry about. OTOH, hanging a brass Fumoto valve on the bottom of said bullet-proof housing would have to be an oxymoron of the first order, but to each his own. Jus' sayin'. :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2020
  5. Mar 1, 2020 at 7:32 AM
    #125
    GODZILLA

    GODZILLA Hail to the King, Baby.

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    Trying not to mod it
    I reached out again, and Brian has been quick to respond. He explained that he hasn't found a way to have his site accept an order without charging, so that is why it charged before shipping. I can totally understand that, as I can't imagine the pain that configuring a website must be.
    Good news! He sent pics to confirm that components had arrived and they were inspecting and assembling them. Should be shipping out early this week:yes: (fingers crossed for tomorrow) and tracking notifications should go out when the shipping label is generated.
    I am excited to get this thing, but I think it's going to be just a wee bit late to catch my first oil change. I might have to actually use one of the freebies from the dealership, but I am going to be super specific about how they do it. I don't want them stripping or losing bolts for my skid plate, or airwrenching everything to pieces.:smack: They have torque wrenches, and I expect them to use them!
     
  6. Mar 3, 2020 at 5:22 AM
    #126
    JHARMAN3202

    JHARMAN3202 New Member

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  7. Mar 3, 2020 at 5:57 AM
    #127
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Yep. Nothing has changed on the engines or the truck. That part number is a direct replacement for the original plastic housing installed on all UR engines.

    You will have to replace the center tube in the aluminum housing with the center tube from the original plastic housing.
     
  8. Apr 11, 2020 at 9:38 AM
    #128
    Spyker

    Spyker I’m a dude,playin a dude,disguised as another dude

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    edit: new thread started with question

    IMG_5874.jpg
    IMG_5875.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2020
  9. Apr 11, 2020 at 10:06 AM
    #129
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Any high-quality, name-brand motor oil meeting either API SN Plus or ILSAC GF-5 will very likely meet the other specification. You can buy expensive Toyota motor oil by the quart from the dealer, or you can buy Mobil1 Extended Performance, which meets or exceeds both specifications, from Walmart (Mobil 1 Rebate currently ongoing). See attached pdf file for Mobil 1 Extended Performance, specifications on Page 2:
     

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