1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Pull the entire throttle body off? Typically I just push back the butterfly valve and clean it out but it really hasn't been that dirty.

 

That usually works fine. But sometimes the crud behind is just caked on.



Make sure the oils full too. They can die out at stops if they’re low, and yes they’re known to burn

 

@Darkness i was looking for a bigger one, but a 4runner member gave me a 5gal for free! Stupid fish haven’t gone up in there to eat yet

 

That's awesome! I'd like to build a small pond in my yard, probably next year. I've seen the spheres like that but never thought of flipping a tank. Maybe you can stick some floating food under the rim to entice them.

 

The lil orange specs are food, my koi are......coy. I’ve tried to catch a goldfish in there a couple times with no success so they are all kinda sheepish lately. They just need to get used to it hopefully.
Do a liner if you do one. Mines sealed real good on the pond part but the rock wall isn’t and seeps into the wall behind it a little. I have some biofilter action going on but my pump filter is still a work in progress.
I really want to do a backyard pool/pond chingaso. I think that would be awesome, no chemicals, lots of plants, cool fish......a pipeline dream as of now

 

@FrenchToasty my brother has a 200 gallon rigid liner pond, it works but I'd like to get more depth than it offers.

Flexible liner for sure would be my route. I want to build up a sizable waterfall as part of filtration. Maybe hide a big filter in a decorative wood crate or a barrel.

 

I like where your head is at!
I’m super green at all this, haha full in with no clue what I’m doing. I really did it for the soothing noise, and the fish were a perk I guess.

 

It’s going to be a long process. But I started blackout today with the 2 kick panels.

 

Well. I installed the first 2 black pieces. May knock 2 more out tonight. It’s time consuming because of the time between coats and my limited hanging ability of the parts. So one at a time. All the coats take about a half hour then let dry for 1 hour before I move it and do the next.
I think I’m going to
Knock out all the small stuff, then get the headliner done, and then worry about the dash, carpet last.

 

You replacing the carpet or painting it?

 

Question for you guys. I wanna replace me front swaybar endlinks with the SuspensionMax links. But they make two styles, oem height and ones for lifted/leveled 2”-3” tundras.
I have Billy 5100s on the 3 or 4th circlip (I forget) and blocks in the rear. Which endlinks do I get? I feel like I’m between the two

 

I would go with the extended ones. I might look into those, I know my bushings are toast

 

I just replaced my bushings with kit from @Wheeler's Off-Road Inc

 

That’s what I was leaning towards. There was a dealer on eBay selling em for $94 shipped for a long time, and I just saw that they are out of stock now. They run like $120-$140 everywhere else...awesome.

 

Says 1-3" so get those.

 

Weird. I was just reading they were 2-3 so that makes me feel better. Thanks

 

Now just to find a decent price on em

 

ACC doesnt make a carpet for my truck.. but im going to order the black carpet for an access cab and trim it to fit.. i dont like the stock vinyl floor.

 

Got this bad boy sitting on my rack at work.. caught fire trying to jump start it... the fusible link blew. Its the old school fusible link WIRE. and its discontinued.. gotta figure out a fix for tomorrow..

 

Well that's pretty cool. MK III?

 

I had an '83. AAA jump started me with the wires reversed. Wreaked havoc on my electronics, stereo only played static & wouldn't turn off.... Fortunately (?) had a crash shortly after & the body shop bought the car from me, so never figured out details of my issues. Those cars with manual are a blast. Automatics (like mine) were just a big fat compromise. A 'sexy' Camry.
Could you wire in an inline fuse? Bypass the link effectively.

 

Just here to vent, i love my truck and all of our trucks, they are the best light duty trucks ever made, aside from manual tranny tacos. God damn i love em.

 

Alright men. @SouthPaw is making me a set of his headlights with projectors so I need recommendations on HID kits. Specifically what color.

He says he's running this kit and is happy with it but I know some other folks spent a lot more.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NCCNN9W

 

Personally, I prefer 4300k especially for my white truck but they didn't have that in LEDs at the time so if/when I need to upgrade the housing I think I will go this route.

 

I second that. Once you get above 5k it starts turning blue. Never been a fan of that.

 

That is the same kit I installed when @SouthPaw built mine. I'm veryyy pleased with the 6K brightness and IMHO the light blue is indeed as advertised, light blue.

 

I just posted a poll in the FS/WTB area looking for a gas door for my [sweet] truck.
Thought I'd mention it over here as this thread seems to get a lot more action than that whole subforum.

Pic for attention.

 

Here is my take. I have been using HID's for quite some time now. I was probably one of the first guys to start using them way back in 2008. Back then, there were VERY few choices. You had the cheap chy-na ones that ran about $90 a bulb and the high dollar ones which were about $200 a bulb. Being as froogle as I was, I opted for the cheaper ones and they served me well for many years. They were big, they were bulky and built like tanks. They sometimes made buzzing/humming noises when they were on, sometimes interfered with radio frequency and sometimes the ballast got REALLY hot but they always worked lol.

Here are some of the aforementioned fossils:




Today's HID kit:

As years passed, they gained more traction and more companies began producing HID kits, which in turn, drove the cost down. The quality also began getting better and the overall design shrunk (introducing the slim line ballasts). Fast forward to today, you can now get them for as low as $35 with prime shipping and a two year warranty. Comparing them to say a Morimoto kit, which costs $150+, it definitely makes someone wonder "what is the difference?" and what kit is best for you. This is where I will explain my experience/opinion on them.

Which kit is best for you? It really comes down to what type of vehicle it is going in; old or new. HID kits have come a long way and personally, I don't really think you can go wrong with any of them. Amazon brand ones (Kensun/Xtreme vision), DDM, Morimoto, etc, they are all good. You might get a bad apple here and there but with the warranty, you won't have to worry. For HID's to be relaible, they need a constant 12V feed. Anything less or not constant will cause premature failure. Where Morimoto shines is with the newer vehicles. Instead of drawing power from the headlight harness, Morimoto kits draw power directly from the battery via their relay harness. This allows for a constant 12V feed with only using the OE headlight harness for signal instead of power. As technology advances, it is getting harder to convert halogens to HID's. This is due to built in canbus systems, DRL and other electronic features on the vehicle that were never previously used on the older ones. One example would be my old 2015 Silverado 1500 and my current 2016 Silverado 2500HD. GM's are known for using the low beams as their DRL but instead of having them at 12V, they run them at 9V to decrease the light output. While it works great, it is havoc on HID ballasts/bulbs. I tried multiple cheapie kits in the 1500 and they all died within a day or two. I even tried using their canbus/capacitor kit but it still did not work correctly and I was still having failure to fire or flickering. I finally gave up and installed a full H1 retro fit kit with a Morimoto HID kit and never had a problem again. For my 2016 2500HD, I did a DRL delete which just recently became available. It deleted the DRL function and now allows me to run a cheapie Amazon kit because my low beams are receiving a constant 12V feed vs 9V with the OE DRL. If this option was not available, I would have had to run the Morimoto kit for it to be reliable.

Are Morimoto ones needed for our old trucks? I don't think so. I obviously don't see the value in the more expensive kits, hence why I run the cheapie ones in both my trucks. While the Morimoto kits serve a purpose, I feel they are over kill for older vehicles. Why pay $150 when you can get the same results (or close to) for 1/4 of the cost? They also have less bulb options, more wiring and more stuff to mount.

Now for color. When HID's were first coming out, the colors were different than they are today. There were some other goofy colors but this was the spectrum that most stuck too.
Back in the day:
4300K - Whitest/brightest with tint of yellow
6000K - Pure white
8000K - Pure white with SMALL tint of blue
10000K - Mostly blue/less white
12000K - All blue

Now-a-days, things have shifted and little and all the colors have been bumped up a notch:
Today:
4300K - Pure white
6000K - White with a small tint of blue - My personal favorite
8000K - Mostly blue with a tint of white
10000K - Pure blue/no white
This chart is pretty accurate between 6K-8K.

I personally like 6K because the light output is excellent and the small tint of blue gives the truck a very modern look. Again with the cheapie kits, replacement bulbs are $12-$14 a pair so you can try different colors without breaking the bank.

 

Dear lord. :slow clap:

 

Thank you!

I’ll have you know that took me all day to write lol