1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

pcv valve

Discussion in '1st Gen Builds (2000-2006)' started by cckkww22, Feb 24, 2020.

  1. Feb 24, 2020 at 9:10 AM
    #1
    cckkww22

    cckkww22 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2020
    Member:
    #43086
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Female
    First Name:
    crystal
    Vehicle:
    2002 toyota tundra 4.7i v8 access cab 2wd
    hi, so here's my questions, and before i start please bare with me. im sure some of these will seem like obvious answers but its just me over here and i wanna make sure i do things right, and please dont tell me to take it to a shop because i know way to much about shop prices, plus my ex took my truck to a shop for this same problem and lets just say they did half a job literally and thats why im here today.
    so about 2 years ago i had to have my coils and spark plugs replaced, easy job right? but for some reason thats when my ex thought $300 was a good deal for a shop to do it. so dumb to me, anyways, they assumed thats what it was, they never ran a compression test or anything, a few months ago the check engine light came on and the engine started shaking, i ran the codes and got multiple misfires on cylinder 3 and 4. my ex was gonna take it back to the shop, but that didnt happen, i mean fool me once right? anyways i ended up changing the coils and plugs again because when i got in there they had only changed half the coils and they had diff gaps on the plugs, it was a mess, and the coils were fried, i tried to run a compression test at home, but my ex took the truck and decided it was fine because the check engine light was off. hes an idiot. anyways hes out of the picture now. thank god. but like i said from the beginning you have to find the root of a problem or it will re-accrue. and it did. the check engine light is back on the engine started shaking again, no codes this time though. not yet at least. i dont have the equipment to do a compression test here but i did a very thorough search and lo and behold there is a crack in the pcv valve. probably could have saved lots of time and money if people just did there jobs. or i could be wrong and it could have nothing to do with it, but i think im right because after reading more on pcv valves it makes a lot more since as to why this is the 3rd time my check engine light has came on the first 2 times do to misfires, and there was leakage in one of the spark plug holes. i just ordered new seals and a new valve, i actually have plugs and coils coming too but now i dont think i need those, my main questions are, am i even close to being on the right track? and if so when replacing a pcv valve do i need to replace the valve and the hose attached as well? or is there more then that even? and do i need to replace any specific coils or censors or anything if im replacing a valve? and lastly, i read somewhere about stuff called oil sealer or something to help seal where oil is getting into the spark plug holes? should i look into that?
     
  2. Feb 24, 2020 at 12:05 PM
    #2
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2018
    Member:
    #22934
    Messages:
    12,915
    East TN
    Vehicle:
    2002 AC
    I can't speak to the rest of your question but you should not need to replace the hose unless it's damaged. You should only have to replace the PCV and possibly the grommet it sits in.

    Here is a thread on the subject.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/pcv-valve-replacement-instructions-4-7l.37967/
     
  3. Feb 24, 2020 at 2:06 PM
    #3
    Johnsonman

    Johnsonman New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2019
    Member:
    #39132
    Messages:
    1,205
    Gender:
    Male
    Austin
    Vehicle:
    Sequoia
    LED headlamps/fogs; interior footlamps.
    any CEL codes the vehicle has now, CEL codes cleared or pending?

    but yes I would replace pcv, hose and grommet, they're usually really hard and break up when removing so careful not to let bits and pieces fall in...
     
  4. Mar 23, 2020 at 9:32 AM
    #4
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2020
    Member:
    #40572
    Messages:
    8,923
    Gender:
    Male
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    2000 Limited TRD AC 4X4 Thunder Grey 270k miles. 2019 Limited TRD CM 4x4 Cement Grey 75k miles
    2000: Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE topper 2019: ARE topper with full Bedrug kit and Vortex rack TRD shifter 1.25" wheel spacers (I like to live dangerously) Red tow hooks for that +15 grip bonus
    Just replaced mine, had evidence of blow by the valve at the grommet onto the valve cover. Valve and grommet replaced, reused the hose, still felt fine. 254k miles on the truck.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top