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Tundra hood latch

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by slowduck, Feb 27, 2020.

  1. Feb 27, 2020 at 6:55 AM
    #1
    slowduck

    slowduck [OP] New Member

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    Hi, New member here. 2006 Tundra with 215,000 miles. Does anyone have suggestions on how to open the hood if the cable is disconnected at the latch end? The hood has a small amount of up/down motion so it is not jammed shut. I can get to the cable inside the drivers compartment and pull with a pair of pliers and it does not click or release the latch.
    Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.
    Slowduck
     
  2. Feb 27, 2020 at 9:13 AM
    #2
    TX-TRD1stGEN

    TX-TRD1stGEN Privileged

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    Luckily you never have to open the hood on these trucks.

    :rofl:
     
    SouthPaw and BubbaW like this.
  3. Feb 27, 2020 at 9:37 AM
    #3
    slowduck

    slowduck [OP] New Member

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    Hi,
    I agree about the hood. Sometimes it has scared me on how long it's been since I opened it. I do all my own work and the first reply is about the skid plate. It's snowing ( 6" to 10" inches expected) with 40ish mph winds so I'll have to wait as I work outdoors. The reason I need to open the hood is I have a P2445 code and I hope the person who designed the engine with the air pump under the intake manifold gets to try once more before he/she retires. I also have C2122 and C2124 codes and that will be my next question as I can't find out what they mean.
    Thanks for both of your interest
    slowduck
     
  4. Feb 27, 2020 at 9:50 AM
    #4
    TX-TRD1stGEN

    TX-TRD1stGEN Privileged

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    Is your name slowduck because that's the only kind you can shoot while hunting??
     
  5. Feb 27, 2020 at 10:18 AM
    #5
    slowduck

    slowduck [OP] New Member

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    Hi again,
    Slowduck is the name of our boat. I think that everything we own is old and we're fixing them up. It's a trawler vs a sail boat vs a planing type of hull. Because of the type (shape) of hull a boat has trade offs. You can have a large boat to go fishing out 20 miles in the ocean that is fast and rides on top of the water. We were behind one of these on the Intracostal waterway in Georgia while fueling and he took $2500.00 worth of fuel. He told me he burned that much the day before and was also going out the next day. That is not the type of boat we have! The other extreme is a full displacement hull on a sail boat that parts the water and it flows around with little effort and seldom uses the engine. In between is a semi displacement hull (our type) that only can go 9 miles an hour flat out but can do so on about 1.5 gallons an hour. With that type of speed we called it slow duck. Our boat is 36' long and weighs about 18 tons.
    It was the only name I could think of when I signed up.
     
    TX-TRD1stGEN likes this.
  6. Feb 27, 2020 at 10:58 AM
    #6
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    This ain't gonna help ya much but you got yourself in a pickle if your 2005 is like my 2004. Removing skid plate on mine wouldn't even get me to first base. I'm thinking wait till spring.
    Yeah, I'm just full of it today....cabin freakin fever !

    This is top side showing cable...

    HoodLatchTop.jpg

    Hood Latch bottom, no access to anything from underneath

    HoodLatchBottom.jpg

    Oh and thanks....now I gotta go shine mine up so @Professional Hand Model doesn't bust my chops :eek:
     
    bmf4069, Tundra2 and TX-TRD1stGEN like this.
  7. Feb 27, 2020 at 12:22 PM
    #7
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    I’ll go out and look at a solution for this. Give me until 4pm St. Barts Time.
     
  8. Feb 27, 2020 at 2:02 PM
    #8
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    St. Barts Time is Island Time. Always later than stated. Only solution I see is to remove the 3 bolts on the latch mechanism. Two are easy to access with extensions and the third has a shield in the way. You may need to rip that off with a long pry bar and pull it out or up. Its held with some plastic grommets.

    You could drill or cut the shield with a long bit blade but might be dangerous with radiator nearby.

    I’d try prying first and then move on to the drill a hole so you can access 3rd bolt.

    Objective is to loosen the hood enough by removing bolts such that the cable can be cut from behind and the hood then fully opened. Or, maybe you can trigger the release mechanism without cutting cable.

    Try to understand why its not operating to begin with and fix that before shutting.

    upload_2020-2-27_16-58-46.jpg
     
  9. Feb 27, 2020 at 2:04 PM
    #9
    PCJ

    PCJ New Member

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    Lift, Rims, Bigger Tires, Nerf Bars, Black Out Emblems
    The only way I could see to do it is to cut a section out of the grill to access the latch. Then just replace the grill.
     
  10. Feb 27, 2020 at 2:47 PM
    #10
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    TRD Pro suspension, +2 Coachbuilder shackles, 2015 TRD Pro headlights, 20% ceramic tinted windows, clear ceramic tinted front windshield, aFe drop in pro s dry air filter, TRD airflow accelerator, TRD oil fill cap, TRD 18 psi radiator cap, BDX Bullydog tuner, Weathertech floor mats front and rear, rear seat fold down mod, DNA hard trifold tonneau cover, Linex with uv protection, TRD rear swaybar, TRD center caps, TRD Pro grille insert with color matching surround and bulge, TRD PRO headlights, aluminum oil filter canister, Real truck tailgate seal, Pop-n-lock tailgate lock actuator, rear diff breather relocate, RCI front skid plate. 275/70 R18 BFG KO2s
    In my work truck which I do not own, the hood won’t pop up when I pull the release. I walk to the front of the truck and just like Arthur Fonzerelli, little hit with the hammer fist to the front of the hood, not the top, and she pops up.
     
  11. Feb 29, 2020 at 11:45 AM
    #11
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    What ever happened here?
     
  12. Feb 29, 2020 at 1:55 PM
    #12
    slowduck

    slowduck [OP] New Member

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    Hi,
    I have not been home or near a computer since yesterday. It's 15 degrees F with 20 mph winds now so can't/won't go out to try every ones suggestions. I do want to thank every one for taking the time to offer the different things to try and I will let you all know what I find or accomplish. It may be a few days as I look at the weather.
    Thank you all again.
    Slowduck
     
  13. Feb 29, 2020 at 2:02 PM
    #13
    TravisT4

    TravisT4 New Member

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    My latch was rusted shut when I bought my truck. What I did was remove those three bolts shown above threw the grill with various extensions and wobbles. Then if I remember correctly I had to disconnect the hood release level and the hood opened up with the latch still rusted on the loop. Its a pain but I didnt have to replace anything.
     
  14. Feb 29, 2020 at 2:10 PM
    #14
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors

    :D
     
  15. Feb 29, 2020 at 2:58 PM
    #15
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    Peshaw, 15 deg is spring time weather :cool:
     
  16. Mar 1, 2020 at 5:12 AM
    #16
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    There are two rubber-stopper-looking things on the hood that (should) make contact with the body right behind the headlights. Twist those rubber stoppers counter-clockwise, and they'll stick out of the hood a little more, which will create pressure when the hood is closed. You want to adjust them so they're creating just a little pressure without making the latch bind, or causing the hood to misalign with the line of the fender.
     
    15whtrd[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Mar 9, 2020 at 12:35 PM
    #17
    slowduck

    slowduck [OP] New Member

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    Hi everyone, I was able to open the hood today. I tried hitting it on the top front but it would not budge. I was able to get 2 of the 3 bolts out of the latch through the grill and then pulled up. Once I had that much play I could open it the rest of the way. Thanks for all your information and various ways to try. Now I have to go back to the original problem of having P2445, C2122, and C2124 codes. The P2445 one I found the answer in another part of this site using a SAIS or SIAS bypass which I'll do but the other codes I haven't found yet. I have a few questions out to friends and other sites.
    Thanks again,
    slowduck
     
    bmf4069 likes this.
  18. Mar 9, 2020 at 12:45 PM
    #18
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    The C2122 and C2124 codes are for your TPMS system. Likely the sensors have died.
     
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  19. Mar 9, 2020 at 1:04 PM
    #19
    slowduck

    slowduck [OP] New Member

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    Hi,
    I didn't know that those would throw a code. I put a little piece of black tape over the dash light for the tire pressure when I found out how much the sensors cost. That's really good as I don't have to worry about those codes.
    Thank you
    Alan
     
  20. Mar 9, 2020 at 3:38 PM
    #20
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors

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