What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

No, I didn't have a code pertaining to the 02 sensors specifically. That was what the local autozone tech reccomended.

The downstream was a year or so in the making. When I first noticed I had a P0420 code I ordered both an upstream, and downstream. At the time I wasn't that fluent with trouble shooting. I was simply going to throw two parts at it.

I replaced the upstream no problem. Got to the down stream, and found that. I left it because I didn't know what to do. I pondered it here or there, forgot about it once or twice, remebered it, and finally decided that the only way I'd know what to do is if i did something. Here I am.

I don't have a multimeter to test the old sensor.

 

No problem since the meter would only tell if the heater circuit was bad(2 blk wires). In my case I had a P0057(heater control ckt low). One would need a scan tool or scope to observe a CATs effiency by looking at upstream/downstream output signals. Hopefully in your case, your choice causes the ECM to like the CAT effiency between up/down stream sensors.

 

I have a Walmart brand code reader that I can view live data on. I know it has a 02 sensor readout on it, but I think it only shows one sensors voltage. Not both. I was watching it this morning after I installed the downstream, and it was fluctuating between 0.355 volts, and 0.750 volts. I think if the catalytic converter is good it's supposed to stay a steady 0.750 volts. That's just from what I've read, and I have no way of knowing whether I was looking at up or downstream. Let me go back out, and upload a screenshot.

I don't know what the longevity of the catalytic converter is, nor how to tell if one is bad. I'm new to this stuff for the most part. It might be time for both of us to bite the bullet.

 

Probably shouldn't say this but fortunately my upstream signal(good sinewave) and downstream signal(flat line ~ .800v). Now that I have said that, I'll be looking up how much a CAT costs....jinxed myself

 

My problem here is that I'm not an "auto-tech" I have an idea on what all these different voltages, and readings mean. This is during a short drive up the road to upload these. Signal at the house, and our own internet isn't that great.

I'm not that pleased with this code reader I bought, but it's better than driving to autozone and them telling me the same thing I can get from this. My local one has a rinky dink little thing that has even less detail than mine.

 

I dealt with the P0420 for a while and even though the 02 sensors may have need replacing it was the cats that fixed the code. I think I remember someone saying you can take an infrared temp gun and check the front and back of the cats to see if they are plugged and beyond their lifespan

 

Well hell, I've got a temp gun. The cat should be the same temp all the way around? Not much variation?

 

Well hell, there you are. Many youtubes out there but you want to see front cooler than rear with veh at operating temp. A reading of of say 300 rear/200 front, you're good to go !

 

Speaking of collisions. I would upload the video clip from my dash cam, but this website does not appreciate. Mp4 files

 

Soo. Can the scan gauge read trans temp on the 05-06 tundras?

 

I have not been able to get mine to.

 

sometimes it's just not worth it !

 

Looks like the lower one checks out okay, the one just after the upstream is iffy. Reading the front of the heat shield is about 120ish and the back of the heat shield is about 125ish. I was expecting more of a contrast.

 

Fluid drains and fills today.

1) 4.25 quarts drain and fill DEX/Merc. Old stuff still looked new with 5k miles on it.

2) Both the transfer case and front diff. Both looked new with 11k miles.

3) Two suck and fills at the steering rez with the left over DEX. Looked a little darker than new, but still good.

All in all I feel good about letting the fluids change intervals extend much longer now that I’ve done a few with eyes on vs. other shops doing them and not being able to see.

Here is the fill method I use for doing the front diff. Its just a simple 1/2” PEX plumbing line from big box. I put a few kinks in it to make the turn to go into the fill hole. This method has worked very well for me the past few times, along with other vehicles fluid services.

 

I have the torque pro app on an old Samsung Note that reads trans temp. There are two trans temp locations though I think. One sensor in the pan and one....elsewhere?? Can anyone back me up on this?

 

Replaced my broken metal/rubber weatherstripping exterior door piece today. Pretty simple but man is that damn piece expensive for a double cab!

 

Ones a pan temp and the other is the torque converter temp

 

Sorry for the delayed response, I was doing a Native American drum circle/sweat lodge untill the answers became “clearer”
I’m not sure how easily the oil is drained from the compressor with it still attached to the truck. But fresh oil and freon shouldn’t hurt anything. I know when you replace the compressor you usually have to fill it(not filled due to different oil capacities in different applications, and just leakage/spillage issues I’m sure)
But when I do mine I will just recover the old freon slowly thru the vapor(suction) line to minimize the oil loss thru the freon. A triple evacuation with nitrogen purges should clean out the system and remove any moisture that might be in the system. I also will replace both schrader cores while I have the system open.

 

Yes. Sometime Dancing with Wolf help bring clarity.

Kimosabe see very little small bubbles in freon line spy glass when A/C running. Should I send smoke signal for help?

 

I have the same issue on my 06. Been putting it off since they are so expensive.

 

They’re both in the valve body. One is after the converter one before

 

Since I'm looking hard at that thing, I'm curious: Did it work ok, but you just didn't like the position, or did it not really hold up well?

Don't actually have one to know for sure, and I definitely don't want to screw up your justification for getting sliders, but a) I thought there were points you could use? and b)

$51 Hi-Lift Sport Utility Vehicle Jack LM-100 Lift-Mate, 5000 pound capacity

this thing looks like a useful piece to have in any case. (And might tide you over until the sliders get installed.)

On the "what I did to my first gen today" topic, I drove it! Went exploring part of Tonto NF yesterday afternoon, camped out above Bartlett Lake. Nice enough, but the FR393 down from 87 was kinda boring. I had a hunch, since it is a service road for huge power lines, and the road I thought I'd take out - Log Corral Trail - is apparently not very easy. After climbing up half of it I decided I'd better do some more research, and once I managed to hike up to a signal, the forums talk of "very large tires, lifts, winches, etc." and "either have sliders or expect body damage". While waiting some guys in ATVs came up and just looked at my Tundra and shook their heads when I asked about conditions. So I turned around. In short: not sure I'd recommend that little loop. Mostly boring and the rest is good for testing out your armor plates.

The (very small) silver lining is that since I had to backtrack I was able to find the little trailer hitch plug that got knocked out without me realizing it. I think I've lost it three times now and each time happened to find it.

 

got my old leaf springs re-arched and added 2 leafs in the rear. No more blocks. Also added the Archive Garage flip kit.

 

$125 shipped was the cheapest I found.

I didn’t like how big it was. Held up fine but it just took up more of that corner than I wanted it to and almost need an adjustable arm that was 1.5-2 times the length. Not worth it to me. I have a $20 iottie mount in the middle of my dash that works well so I’m just sticking with it.

 

Do you see a constant stream of little bubbles or just a few every now and then? Usually you want no bubbles, but sometimes you will see stragglers and it’s not a huge deal. But if they are constant, it could be a shy low or have a small amount of air in the system

 

Ouch, going to be putting that one off for a while unless I can find a junkyard with a Tundra in it.

 

Last time I checked back last summer it was just a few very small bubbles right after compressor kicks in and then they disappear.

 

Takes a small moment in time to compress Freon gas into a liquid. You also have lubricant that circulates with the Freon. The freon has to "bubble" it's way out when it's gets in the lubricant.

 

Your fine, sounds like standard operating procedure

 

Nice work! Where can we get these from?