James Taylor Infinity Amp/Sub Group Buy Install Help Needed

The RCAs are only for front and rear doors. The sub gets hooked up with the speaker wire on the back side.

 

I was so close to getting a ********* setup very close to this, so I watched all their videos and it was easily within my capability. But seeing the wires in your pictures suddenly has me nervous again - I'm hoping they get better when I open the box and get to sorting things out for myself.

 

@belanger9 its not bad. Take a breath, get the stuff organized, READ the instructions James sent. Print them if you can, then highlight the parts that pertain to the setup you have.

I found it easier to get the harnesses and wire them into the receiver inside the house. No point messing with them when you’re messing around in the truck.

Like most things, break it into bite-size pieces and work logically and progressively through the job.

 

@2chains - hey man, just wanted to chime in a minute. I did a similar upgrade last August and get where you are coming from, confused and all that.

Seriously - you can do this. Im also not audio smart, so i get it. Take your time, understand one connection, then figure out the next.

It's really not hard, once it's working, you will look back and shake your head, like i did...

Keep asking questions - folks here are real good and they will help.

As noted in a previous post - Don't cut anything....

You can do this... It really is plug and play...

 

No didn't get any instructions. Would you post them here? Sounds like others would benefit to.

 

Going to check this out, what side did you run the power from engine into the cab?

 

@2chains pm me your email and I’ll send them to you. Since James provided them I don’t want to post them publicly.

I went through the grommet from inside the truck on the passenger footwell.

 

Here is the instructions for the install.

 

If you don’t have trim removal tools, get some. I got these

Motivx Tools 11pc Car Trim and Door Panel Removal Kit - Safely Pry Plastic Dash Pieces, Window Trim, Upholstery, Interior and Exterior Auto Parts Without Breaking Clips, Fasteners, or Scratching Paint

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FPPOQ6I?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title and they were worth every penny. I used almost every tool at one time or another just to make life easier. You don’t necessarily need all of them, but it’s a low-cost stress reducer.

 

Thanks for posting definitely makes sense after reading!

Right on, thanks for that link!

 

Harbor Freight also has them - but in blue...lol

 

Hope you get it all straighten out.

 

So how does the sub get signal from the amp. The only connection is the speaker wire ?

 

did you run RCA from the sub out on the amp to the sub itself?

 

No there’s no rca on the sub. I got it to work temporary like this the red are the only ones supplied. For front speakers and rear speakers

 

Sub gets driven just by the speaker wire in sub location on back side of amp. Only RCA connections are from the Axxess loc to the amp. Front and rear only.

 

Thats right - I type the opposite of what I was thinking.
I also have an LOC. You'd think I would remember.

 

To answer your question...the Sub gets its signal by switching the SUB (switch on back of amp)to INT.
Normally on an aftermarket HU you would have RCA outputs for front/rear/SUB since you would have the ability to tune/control the sub directly from the HU....since our stock entune HUs don't have RCA outputs this is where the LOC comes in...it converts the factory speaker wires to a Line Out (aka RCAs) so that the amp gets the signal from the HU, and by clicking the SUB switch on the amp to INT it sends the signal to the sub....RCAs wouldn't run to the actual sub, just the speaker wires...maybe this clears it up

 

Ahhh it does. Now hopefully I can get it to work tomorow when I finish install tweeters and cleaning things up. Thanks for the explanation

 

@Alexstundra I believe if you change this switch and plug the RCAs in from the LOC just in the Front/Rear locations on the Amp, your sub should work

 

Attached is the page from James that captures all the settings that you should be at on the Infinty Kappa 5 channel amp

 

Thank you

I did not get any instructions yet by email like @2chains , I have yet to open the boxes though to check. The attached instructions put me at ease for sure, I'm fairly confident in electrical work just never done audio before so was a little nervous.

 

It’s really not bad. Some parts of the instructions are a little in detailed so here’s some advice.

1. Start with in bolting passenger seat and just move it towards the back seat to get it out of the way. You don’t have to pull it completely out of the truck. I never even unplugged the harnesses. Just take it slow and watch the metal hitting your plastic.

2. the biggest pain is running the amp wire. I used a hanger 3m e tape and some wd40 to help push threw the grommet. I went through the passenger side. You don’t need to pull the dash apart but it takes some luck and a real uncomfortable position to slide your hand up at the corner above the kick panel position. (Remove the kick panel cover before doing this) it may be helpful to have a buddy feed cable Into the truck while you try and grab it but I did it solo.

3. hook up amp wire it all up and set in place. Don’t get your power and rcas/signal cables to close together. I installed my amp with the settings panel on the door side. That way after install is complete you can still get to the settings easily without removing the seat. Also start to run your sub wires. I just ran them halfway back. Test the stereo at this point and make sure front left is front left rear right is rear right. If all is good the reinstall the seat. You need it back in place so that you have the room in the back to tackle the sub.

4. sub. Move both seats forward after you unbolt. Run the cable to the drivers side. Make sure the sub is right in the middle of the divers side. To far over and your seat fold won’t function properly. Don’t ask me how I know this.

door speakers. Watch the videos on YouTube!!!! On how to uninstall door panels. after doing the full install I really wish I painted the wood door panel adaptors. When the sun is right I can see them through the door panels and it bugs me.

Follow all the setting instructions for the amplifier. A small flathead will be necessary I keep one in the truck. I got a bit to much signal noise so I had to turn the gains down on my front and rears a bit to help. This is a very common issue you can put a head unit in if your really bothered by it. This system is awesome I had to buy 2 new clips but I did ok with the plastic pry tools. I broke the install into 3 parts. Amp sub install was the first day front speakers the next rear speakers a week later. This helps you keep your cool and keeps it exciting for a lil bit longer.

 

Thanks, will definitely go back to this when I get a chance to do the install. Amp wire and doors I'm fine with, I've done wires before for my light bars and I've had the doors off a couple times doing mirrors - I'm going to use this install to plastic weld a couple busted clips I have in the door panels. The correct speaker wires were where I was unsure about, but with your help and the instructions it sure seems manageable, and once I get the parts unboxed I bet it'll all make sense.

 

Ok got everything except the rem wire hooked up and working. What do you two into for the rem wire?

 

Don’t understand the ?

 

Use that red wire coming off the plug and play connection under the seat.

 

The one that goes into the power?

 

Move the smaller red wire to the remote slot. All you need is the large power wire in the power slot.

you shouldn’t need the blue wire at all unless you splice it to the small red wire.