Coach Builder +1 or +2 Shackles?

I am installing 6112's & 5160's this Saturday. The 6112's will be set at the 1.3 setting. I currently have +2 shackles ready to instal. With the front at 1.3 do you think downsizing to the +1 shackles will be better in terms of the amount of rake with the 1.3 setting?
If I stick with +2's should I do the CB drop kit?

Once I have the shocks and all on and alignment dialed in I will be installing 305/75R17's at 0 offset; most likely about a week or so later. Truck is Tundra SR5 4x4. Thanks.

 

At 1.3 you should do the +1 shackles

 

Damn. Thanks

 

Did you measure the center hub to fender on the front and rear? That will give you a better idea on how much rake you would want.

 

Yes. I have decided to instal front and rear shocks this weekend (I am not actually doing installation), get a tape measure alignment and then take to alignment shop. I will drive it for a couple weeks to "verify" alignment. I will measure again and maybe jack it up in rear at the hitch to eyeball it- measure and decide which if any shackle to go with. After that - new wheels/tires go on. I have a type in original post - I am installing 305/65/17s...

 

I’m at 1.9” and +2 shackles and it has a slight rake. Looks almost level. So I think 1.3” and +2 would be noticeably higher in the rear. But 6112s seem to settle differently.

 

Just bump the front up a little more if you already have +2”s on hand. Save some cash.

 

The way I understand it is you choose the shackle that matches you’re lift. +3 for 2.5-3”. +2 for 2”. +1 for 1.3”.

If I woke up in your shoes I would got 1.9”!!!

 

6112s on the 2.5" setting (top) and shims. 5100s in the rear with @BOSS4x4s shackles set at 2" top setting. I have rake.

 

or at 1.3 don't put any shackle and decide if you want it after. I have 2.5 front with +2 shackle and I have rake.

 

Like a glove

 

Thanks for all the input. Going to put 1.3 and go from there. Ill be stoked if i don't need to lift rear at all. I will replace OEM bushings with poly though. I guess worst case I will trade the +2 for a +1. Im hoping it turns out good with the 305/65/17s- gonna go Method 701s in bronze. BTW that MGM above looks bad ass.

 

Good to hear, I think you will be happy with it

 

Thanks for the great input.


I ended up setting at 1.3 - no shims and no lift in rear at this time (installed 5160's though). It rides sweet- way better than stock. Truck "looks" level and measured at 1.5" height increase (with exception of some lean on driver front) Lean is not visually apparent at this time and will be a pain in the ass to add shim at this point. As far as rear- I will not add +1 shackle but will swap OEM leaf bearing for the poly bearing.

I tapped into a Tundra wizard for optimum alignment numbers and went to the Truck Shop and they made it happen with their sweet laser alignment system - that includes zero point calibration.
Camber 0.0/ 0.0
Caster 2.8/ 2.6 (goal was between 2-4; closer to 4 as possible)
Toe .06/ .07 (goal was no more than .15 total)

I am OCD'ing over wheels & tires now... Gonna go M701s 17" with 0 offset in bronze. As far as tires: They will need to be 33ish ; goal is mild offroad/ sand and to keep stock shift points (regear not gonna happen). With the close to stock size tires the revs should work to this advantage. I am complete novice but have been learning from others...

Here is what I am pondering-
305/65/17- meaty looking at level height- probably rub plastic at full lock. I would let it rub.
295/70/17- probably rub bumper and something else at full lock. maybe a CB bumper shim?
285/70/17- meh'

Also wondering should I go with "C" or "E"- they will be BFG KO2s (C not available in 305).

Again, your input is greatly appreciated.

 

Quick question. I’ll be towing a boat during summer and about to do suspension. Little uneducated. I would want some rake if towing I would assume?

 

Yes, especially with TSS. I left an inch and a half of rake on my 2017 so I don’t end up nose high while towing.

 

Nice! I’ll stay tuned, let us know what size tire you go with. I’m 305/65/17 on rock warrior wheels. Stock suspension. Just ordered 6112s. On my end, I’m trying to calculate how far out I can push these out with a spacer. Guessing 1” wheel spacer at this point.

 

Nice! I’ll stay tuned, let us know what size tire you go with. I’m 305/65/17 on rock warrior wheels. Stock suspension. Just ordered 6112s 2.5” after shims. On my end, I’m trying to calculate how far out I can push these out with a spacer. Guessing 1” wheel spacer at this point.

 

Will do. Do you have any pics of tries? BTW I may be adding shim on driver side to counter the damn lean. Other option I am considering is setting driver side to 1.9 and leaving passenger side at 1.3. Im thinking if I stagger the settings and the ride feels off I could then proceed to drop back down to 1.3 and add 1 shim instead. I getting near the point where I just want to get it right and get the wheels/tires on. It is a slow journey.

 

Don't set them differently. Not a good idea. Get the shim.

 

So the number of the shackle doesn’t mean it lifts that much.

+1 is about .65 inches, +2 is 1.25”, and + 3 is 1.75 inches of lift.

If you want to keep factory rake for towing and such then you should go with +2 at 1.25 inches which matches your front lift height. If you want less rake than factory go +1 at .65 and you will lose .6 inches of rake(more leveled).

If you want less rake and keep the +2 add a CB shim to each side for an extra half inch of lift. This is a good way to do it because you keep the soft ride of the 1.3 setting but gain some extra lift.

If you keep +2 def install the carrier bearing drop per manufacturer specifications. They should have come with the drop spacers.

 

Yes because when you load the truck, if the ass end sags below the front it’s no good. You lose handling and control real quick. You need some rake unless you have airbags you can use to level the truck after loading.

 

Bad idea as stated above. Get the shim. 25 bucks. Problem solved forever.

 

305/70/17. Stock suspension.

 

I went with 6112's at 1.9 (no shims needed) and stock TRD Bilsteins in the rear (also have airbags in rear set at 10psi when not towing). Sits perfectly level after settling in for 25k miles. Tires are 285/75r17 ~33.5" tall.

To me this is the perfect set up without having to change UCA's, add diff drop, or change gears and speedo calibrate for bigger tires. If I ever decide to go to 35" tires, I wouldn't want to do it without
increasing the 6112's to the top setting, adding rear shackles with 5160's, changing the UCA's, adding diff drop, and changing the gears to 4.88. Not saying that you can't do it without adding those things, but to retain current performance they would be needed. Thus costing about $3500 (not including cost of tires) to add 1.5" of tire height and 1" of suspension height (net 1.75" of overall height). Sure it would look that much better and perform, but not sure I could justify it.

 

Correct. I installed my own spacers I had laying around. Be sure to use blue Loctite.

 

Great looking truck! Thanks again for the info.

 

Contacted Bilstein yesterday at 0600 and heard back at 0800- "I would not recommend changing the ride height on the Tundra 6112 kit to different settings left to right. This can over lift the one side and cause issues. Our recommendation is to go with a shim under driver's side assembly. I believe CB makes a good one." So... I am definitely using 1 shim and not experimenting with different heights. Thanks for the guidance above. Now wondering if I should go 1.9 instead! hahaha.

 

Go 1.9

 

I went 1.9 with 2 shims on each side and got 2.9 inches of height but it still rides like the 1.9” settting. I was surprised how subtle a 3” lift was. I think you’ll want it to be higher later if you don’t go to 1.9 now.