2019 Tundra with 5500 miles.....where to start to keep it nice?

Hey guys, Last week I pulled the trigger on a 2019 Silver Sky Metallic SR5 crewmax 4X4. It has 5500 miles on it, and according to the Carfax, it was registered as some type of fleet vehicle. I haven't seen it in person yet, but the in the pics, the vehicle looks basically brand new. The bed looks like it nothing has ever even been put in it (bare paint--no liner).

Where should I start with detailing? And what steps would ensure the longest, best looking job? I'll probably keep this truck a long time. Not much of an off-roader, but it will occasionally see some dirt roads and mud at the hunting camp.....

So, where do you start, and what steps do you take when you are starting with basically a clean slate. I bought it from Vroom, and I know they do a detail before they ship it out, but it will ride on a car hauler for a couple of days before I get it.

 

Congrats and Welcome from Florida!

Since it's fairly new, go look into ceramic coating to help protect the finish. Then, start adding your mods. Definitely get some type of bedliner.

 

Like @SprinterAE86 said, a ceramic coating would definitely keep your paint protected and looking good for a long time. Even better is PPF film. Both of these options are expensive though. If you don’t want to do a ton of detailing yourself, and can afford it, these would be your best bet. (Some people even do both.)

Outside of those, there are a lot of good options and methods you can use to keep it looking great. Luckily, Silver Sky is going to be easier to maintain than darker colors.

Main thing, above all else: Do not use automatic car washes, ever. These will wreck your paint faster than anything. Hand wash only. We can recommend our favorite soaps if you’d like, but most are going to be fine. There are just some differences in how they work and finish that some of us prefer.

Use good washing practices. Get quality microfiber towels. Either rinse them thoroughly and often, or use a bunch. Main thing is don’t put a dirty towel on the paint.

First thing I do with any new vehicle is paint decontamination. They all have iron deposits in the paint that cause it to dull. It’s something that needs to be done yearly, but even brand new vehicles need it. You’ll need a chemical iron remover like Carpro Iron X or Shine Supply Smooth Move, along with a clay bar or clay mitt. If you’re interested, I can go more into depth on the process.

If you’re not looking to pay for ceramic or ppf, you’ll need to apply some kind of sealant to the paint. There’s a ton of good options, just depends on how much time and money you’re willing to spend.

This is a vague outline to start. If you’d like, we can get way more specific. Main thing we need to know is how much financial and time commitment you’re willing to make.

 

Welcome from East TN! Good looking truck!!!!

 

Thanks @War Machine .....I don't think I'd spend the $$ on the front end on ceramic or PPF. I've always played around with detailing....I don't mind putting in the work myself. I just have never really had a "clean slate" to start on, so was mainly curious what were the best steps for starting out with a fairly new truck.

Sounds like I'll be doing and iron decontamination and clay to start with. Whats a good sealant that yall would recommend? I've got Maguire's stuff that I've used in the past (did a three step correction on my Tacoma a couple of years ago). I've still got some of their stuff around that I've been using (compound, polish, liquid wax).

Also, I asked in another thread, but never got an answer......have folks gotten away from using a chamois for drying? I've always used an Absorber XL with good results, but it seems like most folks are using microfiber now??

 

I'm with War Machine, my process with a new truck would be Carpro Iron-X, Clay Bar, then the Carpro Hydro2 sealant. An optional final step (easy) would be a final wipedown with P&S Beadmaker in increase the gloss over the Hydro2 as a stand alone. Lot's of good videos on using the Hydro2 sealant....easy peasy, but also effective.

The Griot's Edgeless Drying towel, is pretty much the towel of choice here on Tundras.com

https://www.griotsgarage.com/produc...MI9-Wd28GX5wIVgYbACh0qCwBPEAQYAiABEgLpffD_BwE

 

I go into detail with my experiences with a lot of products, including sealants here:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ask-the-detailer.18408/page-55#post-1480545

These are just my opinions, not gospel. Others have different recommendations that are just as valid.

As for the Absorber XL, you have to be extremely careful when using one. You can’t drag it on the paint at all. They will pin any leftover dirt or anything else under them and cause scratches. You have to just lay it on there, and pick it straight up. Even then I’d be very very careful.
A good microfiber, while there still being a risk, is a lot less likely to do that. They are more plush, so most stuff will be “lifted” into the towel instead of just being pinned to the surface. The absorber has nowhere for that to go, so it just stays pressed into the paint.

 

Hands down the best towel, just expensive. Second place in my opinion is The Rag Company Double Twistress, but it’s still a far cry from the Griots. Cheaper, but also smaller so you’ll probably need at least two. You can dry an entire Tundra with one of the big Griots PFM without wringing it out.

 

Definitely get a sprayed in bed liner. Line-x, rhino lining either one it doesn’t matter. Super durable protects the whole bed and only cost 5-600 bucks and worth every penny.

 

I was going to say the same thing bedliner or bed rug to protect that bed.

 

welcome and enjoy it man.

 

Nothing like that desert pinstripe look for the best detail around!

 

???
I'm assuming you are referring to the effects of the chamois?

 

Are there any negatives to using a touch free car wash

 

Lol, no it's an AZ thing referring one's truck having dust and scratches from mesquite and other vegetation running nose to tail on both sides

 

If he doesn't want to do pro-ceramic, what about DIY carpro job?

I'd get good at applying stuff first but even DIY ceramic will last a couple of years and it's more like $100 than $1000-2000 for the pro work. A LOT of work to put into it from the sounds of it though.

And I was under the impression that touchless washes were ok? I know it strips off all the seals/waxes but I'm in Canada, a hand wash isn't happening in January.

 

The soaps used in touchless washes are pretty harsh. They will definitely strip whatever sealer/wax you've laid down.

 

This for sure. They’re good for a quick rinse off, especially in cold weather, but they don’t do a great job and will wipe out any protection you have on it, other than ceramic.

 

Congrats on the Tundra!! My wife is a little blue-eyed french gal, barely over 5 foot, so buying a running board or side steps was a priority. (My Tundra was, also, used and the one I found already had them.) I did put quite a bit of money into a hard plastic 4-panel bed cover. Years ago, I had a Tacoma and the bed cover was a one-piece hard top cover and I ended up hating it....very heavy to remove and often had to ride around with it propped up to haul stuff around. This new one is about 98% waterproof, opens on the bottom and top, lockable, and is easy to remove with removal of just a couple of screws. (It's sturdy enough to walk on, too.)

 

Ok, maybe a dumb question, but anyway.....Do you just use the Iron X as the lube for the clay? I ordered the nanoskin fine clay mitt, IronX, PFM towel, and carpro reload sealant off of the Amazons. I'll be doing my truck and my wife's Acura RDX. When I did clay in the past, I used Maguire's quick detailer for the lube.

How far does 1L or Iron X go? Enough for two jobs?

 

Toyota makes a bed mat for the Tundra. Roman can probably help you with that. If I remember correctly, they are not too expensive. Fine if you do not use the bed often.

 

Not a dumb question at all. I also use quick detailer as clay lube. Any brand should work fine.

That 1L bottle of IronX will go way further than that. I don’t have an exact figure, but I’d say I’ve only bought maybe three bottles ever. That’s using it on four of my own vehicles, and several others for friends and family.
You MIGHT use maybe a third of that bottle doing both vehicles. It doesn’t take much. You shouldn’t have to buy another bottle for a really long time. Word of warning though, that stuff STINKS.

Perfect choices on your Amazon order. You spent a little money, but it’s going to last you quite a while. You’re gonna love those products!

Since you bought Reload, look into CarPro Ech20. It’s a rinseless wash that works very well for maintenance washes. Another product that goes very far. Only 1 ounce in a bucket with 2 gallons of water.
Take 1 ounce of Reload, 1 ounce of Ech20. Mix it with 10 ounces of distilled water and you’ve got a better quick detail spray than almost anything you’ll find on the market. It works even better if you have Reload on your paint already. You’re refreshing the sealant with every use of the quick detailer and it will extend the life of your protection.

 

Would you use this setup in place of optimum no-rinse? Or use them both?

 

NO. You want a good detail spray or diluted waterless wash for a clay lube. You want it so slippery that the stuff the clay picks up will not scratch the surface. Personally, I'd look into Adam's spray ceramic coating. I've done two vehicles with it, and it's easy to apply. It won't last as long as their regular ceramic coating, but the trade off is speed and ease of use. Their guard and gloss is awesome for what it is. Seal as you dry, and probably lasts two months before needing to be reapplied.

 

For a sealant, go with McKees HiDef, Jescar Powerlock or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant....can not go wrong with any of the three

 

I've got carpro reload at home right now. I haven't used it yet....waiting on a nice day. I plan on topping it off with either bead maker or a carnauba wax.....

 

I just bought some Jescar Powerlock and plan on topping it with Collinite 845. I heard that is a good combo.

 

For a topper....go with a good carnuba...it will increase the depth of color that some sealants have a tendency to mask.....Jescar ColorLock or Collinite 845 are good choices.....silver is a tough color to get a lot out of, but I've used MCKees HiDef topped with Pinnacle Signature Series II paste wax on my daughters silver Hyundai.....another outstanding combo

 

It’s a great combo, and to top those two off, final spray with Beadmaker. Those 3 are my go to right now, but as mentioned above, Wolfgang has a great sealant

As for the OP, I would put Collinite 845 on top of the sealant, just my $.2

 

I do have a gallon of Beadmaker. I'll give that a shot as soon as it warms up.