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Any idea what this sound is

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Zursha0003, Dec 27, 2019.

  1. Dec 27, 2019 at 2:54 PM
    #1
    Zursha0003

    Zursha0003 [OP] New Member

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  2. Dec 27, 2019 at 2:55 PM
    #2
    Zursha0003

    Zursha0003 [OP] New Member

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    2012 tundra rock warrior. Loud knock. Comes and goes ?!?!? Lost
     
  3. Dec 27, 2019 at 3:19 PM
    #3
    Zursha0003

    Zursha0003 [OP] New Member

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    Yea fresh off and oil change

    also noticed yellowish goop on oil cap
     
  4. Dec 27, 2019 at 3:59 PM
    #4
    vhstejskal

    vhstejskal New Member

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    The yellow goop on the oil cap is more than likely water condensation in the oil when you take short trips and the engine doesn't heat up enough to burn that off. (Simliar to this)https://www.tundras.com/threads/2011-4-6-waterpump-help.58148/

    That loud knock seems like it's running low on oil; are you hearing that from both banks? Where is your oil level at and what does the dash show for oil pressure?
     
  5. Dec 27, 2019 at 6:41 PM
    #5
    Zursha0003

    Zursha0003 [OP] New Member

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    But oil pressure gauge is normal no lights on dash or anything either
     
  6. Jan 14, 2020 at 1:10 PM
    #6
    TunaDr

    TunaDr New Member

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    its not a exhaust or manifold leak of any sort making things louder than it normally would be?
     
  7. Jan 17, 2020 at 4:32 PM
    #7
    Yodder J

    Yodder J New Member

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    Sure sounds like a knock to me, but it goes away when it warms up? Perhaps it's akin to a piston slap before the oil is warm and circulating
     
  8. Jan 17, 2020 at 6:19 PM
    #8
    Tundyfundy

    Tundyfundy Petunia The Tundra, and her sidekick Colbie

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    It may be a manifold crack and as it heats up the metal expands together closing the leak. Doesn’t sound normal at all.
     
  9. Jan 19, 2020 at 11:31 AM
    #9
    Lifeislarge

    Lifeislarge New Member

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    That's your drivers side main timing chain slapping against the guides because the tensioner shit the bed. Common issue, and a bit of work to replace a $100 part. And no you don't need to order new timing chains and guides. Mine is the same and I haven't gotten around to replacing it yet.
     
    15whtrd likes this.
  10. Jan 19, 2020 at 11:39 AM
    #10
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    You’re saying to just leave it be and it’s fine? Or just replace the tensioner but no need to replace the guides and chain?
     
  11. Jan 19, 2020 at 11:43 AM
    #11
    Lifeislarge

    Lifeislarge New Member

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    I have no idea if it'll be fine if you leave it. To clarify all you will need to replace is the tensioner, the rest of the chains and guides will be fine. You'll still need associated gaskets, seals and whatever goop you choose to seal the timing cover with.
     
    15whtrd[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Mar 28, 2020 at 6:43 PM
    #12
    Vince

    Vince New Member

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    Mine 2011 sounded the exact same I added stp oil treatment and it went away. I also have 227000 mile on mine fig it was just engine noise it is gone now give it a try if your worried. Mine has done it for a long time
     
  13. Mar 29, 2020 at 5:59 AM
    #13
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Highly coincidental for this noise to appear immediately after an oil change. If you have someone change your oil, you should investigate exactly what oil/filter they used versus what has been used in the past. Once an engine has 100K+ miles on it, there is going to be more noise, and 0W20 oil might not absorb the sloppiness like it used to because the oil has 0W viscosity when it's cold.

    If I had the problem, I would try a heavier viscosity oil, like 5W30, in Mobil 1 Extended Performance or Extended Performance High Mileage. If that doesn't reduce or eliminate the noise, then the tensioner diagnosis sounds on target. If the tensioner does not keep the timing chain properly tensioned, there is substantial risk for severe engine damage ($$$$).

    Current owner manuals recommend 0W20 only in the US market, and it's strictly for Toyota to meet their fleet CAFE. Owner manuals indicate that if 0W20 is unvailable, you can use 5W20, but that you should change it to 0W20 as soon as available. (Yeah, right, throw another $100+ down on the sidewalk. o_O) They also say if you live in Mexico, 5W30 is fine...well, it's not the engine that's changed.
     
  14. Mar 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM
    #14
    TinkerToy86

    TinkerToy86 New Member

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    That sounds a lot louder than my ticking noise, it went away after warmup as well.
    My 5.7 had a little residue on the driver side rocker cover but not bad, so I've had cover gaskets for quite some time and just got around to changing them. While changing the gaskets and spark plug tube seals I found a couple of the spark plug tubes had oil in them. The tube seals were slightly cracked (assuming they weren't changed before I bought the truck at 140k miles, and now at 233k miles) cleaned out the tubes and put it all back together and my noise disappeared.
    I never had a engine light or hesitation from the cylinder not sparking, currently watching my mileage for any change.
     

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