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Ready to make some upgrades, just need some advice

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by westslope, Jan 15, 2020.

  1. Jan 15, 2020 at 5:30 PM
    #1
    westslope

    westslope [OP] New Member

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    Hello

    I recently bought my first Tundra (2019 Doublecab MGM). I have some extra money burning a hole in my pocket so I figured I may as well dump it in my truck! I am fairly new to the game, but have spent hours and hours doing endless research on this site, and feel pretty confident that I have finally made some decisions. I am looking for some input on the set up and hoping to get some advice, suggestions, or any helpful information so that I don't make any stupid mistakes. Here is what I am planning currently.

    -6112 front @2.5"
    -5160 rear with Toytec shackle 1.5"
    - SPC UCA
    -SCS Ray10 wheels matte gunmetal gray *these are already ordered and paid for, should receive them in the next few weeks-no going back now!
    -planning to run either 295/70/18 Nitto RG, or Cooper ST Maxx, or 285/75/18 Nitto RG *currently undecided but leaning toward 295/70
    -I am strongly considering just going ahead and doing the BMC along with the install.
    - front bumper spacer/shims

    Here are the things I am struggling with and looking for some advice on:

    1. Would I be crazy to just do the BMC from the get go? It seems to make sense and doesn't seem like that big of a deal or cost to buy extra space and reduce the likelihood of rubbing. I am leaning toward just doing it and being done with it.??

    2. same question for front bumper spacer/shims, necessary?

    3. what about shims for driver side lean? It seems to me that some folks use them, some don't. How do you know if you need them or not without doing the work, and then realizing you have a lean? How do you know how many you need and where?

    I would appreciate any and all tips or suggestions. Thanks you!
     
  2. Jan 15, 2020 at 5:55 PM
    #2
    r1-superstar

    r1-superstar Kailua Boy

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    You shouldn't need a BMC with what you are getting. NO bumper shims. I didn't do either of those and look at my sig for what I have installed.

    Yes on the shim for driver's side lean.
     
  3. Jan 15, 2020 at 5:55 PM
    #3
    timsp8

    timsp8 Former Tundra owner for 13 years

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    Once you cut the frame you can never go back. There was a post on here a while ago where I remember someone said they tried to trade their truck in and the dealer low balled them cause of the cut frame. Probably very rare but it could happen.

    Are you doing the work? If so try it first to see if you rub then start more modification. I did 6112s at 1.9”, measured center of hub to fender, then added drivers side shim because it was 3/4” lower.

    Remember the 6112s settle too. I needed 3 alignments before I felt it was good.
     
  4. Jan 16, 2020 at 4:47 AM
    #4
    westslope

    westslope [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the input. Honestly I did not realize there were different models of SPC's, I was just looking at the SPC UCA for Tundra 07+ from Toytec
     
  5. Jan 16, 2020 at 4:51 AM
    #5
    westslope

    westslope [OP] New Member

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    Thank you. No, not doing the work myself, taking it to a local shop or Toyota dealer, have not decided yet on which. I get what you are saying about the body mount chop and no going back. It just seems that what actually gets done in the chop is so minor, but probably good advice to be cautious before chopping. Thanks again.
     
  6. Jan 16, 2020 at 12:40 PM
    #6
    Tundra_power

    Tundra_power New Member

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    You should look at jba uca. The ball joint is 1 ton can be found anywhere and its maintenance-free unlike uniball.
     
  7. Jan 16, 2020 at 3:06 PM
    #7
    r1-superstar

    r1-superstar Kailua Boy

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    It all depends on the truck. Not all are the same. My 5100s are on the top setting, two shims on the driver's side and one on the passenger. I needed aftermarket UCAs because the alignment was maxed with the OEM UCAs.
     
    westslope[OP] likes this.
  8. Jan 16, 2020 at 4:48 PM
    #8
    BROGAN

    BROGAN FNG

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    Just ceck out build thread in sig
    What are you wanting to do with the truck? Offroading? Or mostly pavement?

    If I had to go back, I would have gone straight for 35x12.50s. Buy once cry once. I did 295/70s and it just wasnt right for me. You would need the BMC for 35s. But if you go with 295/70s with what you said you were planning you wouldn't need the BMC.
     
  9. Jan 16, 2020 at 6:15 PM
    #9
    LT75

    LT75 Seasoned Pro

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    I’m running 295/70/18’s which I believe are 34.6” with no rubbing except the little front flap. So why would an extra 0.4” need a BMC?
     
  10. Jan 16, 2020 at 6:38 PM
    #10
    BROGAN

    BROGAN FNG

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    Just ceck out build thread in sig
    Whats your setup? I had 295/70/18 on my rig before, and infact have them in my garage now (they will go on my off road trailer eventually). We can talk about the differences in sizes in regard to what we perceive to be minuscule, but they just are not the same tire at all. They are bigger and wider. And according to this, its 34.3". Untitled picture.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2020
  11. Jan 16, 2020 at 7:32 PM
    #11
    rustytoys

    rustytoys New Member

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    My advice is to go with a 6" or 7" lift, or at least take a few jacks to raise the truck and see if you'll actually be happy with two inches...
     
  12. Jan 17, 2020 at 7:56 AM
    #12
    DexterL

    DexterL New Member

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    That was me, i didnt have a fill plate so it was obvious. My other trucks all had the BCM and the fill plate and never had an issue.
     
  13. Jan 17, 2020 at 8:01 AM
    #13
    DexterL

    DexterL New Member

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    Pretty drastic difference from 2-6/7 inches. Most folks only want to level out their trucks or provide a small lift. A 6-7in lift puts most folk into a major pickle- parking sucks/ cant fit in garages, mileage gets really bad- craptastic aerodynamics, off road performance dips drastically vs a good MT set up at 2-3 inches, wear and tear on the vehicle is significantly higher, etc. Plus a 6in lift doesnt look anywhere close to a 2-3 (which is what the OP is after).
     
  14. Jan 18, 2020 at 2:24 PM
    #14
    rustytoys

    rustytoys New Member

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    Have you ever actually driven a really big truck - like 37"+ tires with high-end coilovers? They handle better than stock if the right money is spent in the right places; are you gonna tell me that a trophy truck on 39's is worse than your Tundra - that "off road performance dips drastically" on a trophy truck? I get the benefits of a small 2.5 lift - which is what I have too for now, but if you have the money there are almost no downsides to a big lift - other than completely subjective ones like you mentioned - fuel mileage, parking garage, etc. - which may mean nothing to some people.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2020
  15. Jan 18, 2020 at 3:12 PM
    #15
    BROGAN

    BROGAN FNG

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    Just ceck out build thread in sig

    Hey friend, maybe dial it back. I dont think OP is building a trophy truck. These two trucks right here, are a whole world apart. Suggesting OP go with a 7" lift is going to look and perform a whole lot more like truck on right, and nothing like the truck on left.

    Untitled picture.jpg

    "Extra high lifts, like 6-7"+, dont really add much performance"...that is a subjective statement, or opinion, that I hold. However, fuel mileage, parking garage or height of truck, are objective statements, or measurements with numbers, or sometimes referred to as facts.

    Cool. But OP opened the floor for advice, so it was provided, so it means something to OP.
     
    TXTundra2722 and DexterL like this.
  16. Jan 18, 2020 at 3:14 PM
    #16
    Tundra_power

    Tundra_power New Member

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    Wow rustytoys everybody is friends here. Not everybody likes 6 or 7in lifts. And i totally agree with you if you put your money in the right place it will be worth it. But for me im on a budget and 5100 all way around is just right for me.
     
  17. Jan 18, 2020 at 4:30 PM
    #17
    DexterL

    DexterL New Member

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    exactly, 7-8in lift ain’t no trophy truck... it’s a mall crawler. A legit MT or LT set up will walk all over any 6+ in lift out there.
     
  18. Jan 19, 2020 at 10:54 AM
    #18
    rustytoys

    rustytoys New Member

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    Nick, I totally agree and I'm running the same 5100 setup as you, its an okay setup and more than likely something small is what the OP wants - but I just wanted to give him my opinion as a 2.5" lift basically looks stock on a big truck like the Tundra, so just depends what you want out of a truck.
     
    Tundra_power[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Jan 19, 2020 at 11:03 AM
    #19
    rustytoys

    rustytoys New Member

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    This is a BDS 7" lift on Fox coilovers, not saying its the best setup out there, but I am considering it down the road. I've driven big 37"+ tire trucks on high-end Fox coilovers with suspension done right and all I can say is that the driving experience was amazing - were not talking about a Rough Country lift here... thats the only point I'm trying to make.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2020
    ackthresher likes this.

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